All Things Iceland

The Christmas season is in full swing in Iceland. Many of my podcast listeners and followers on social media have asked about some awesome ways to experience Christmas in Iceland. Back in 2019, I shared 16 Christmas Activities to Do While Visiting Iceland on the podcast. While that list is still helpful, I wanted to update it a bit and provide some more links to activities that you might find helpful.

Iceland during Christmas is a wonderland of unique traditions and festive activities, particularly in the Reykjavík area. Here are six reasons why these activities make for an unforgettable holiday experience:

The Christmas season in Iceland is rich with culinary traditions, and the local buffet is a must-try. It’s not just about the food, which includes delicacies like hangikjöt (smoked lamb) and laufabrauð (leaf bread), but also about the experience of sharing these traditional dishes in a festive atmosphere.

It’s a perfect way to immerse yourself in Icelandic culture. One of my favorite things is that there are regular Christmas buffets and all vegan ones. I had the pleasure of going to an all vegan one at Plantan Kaffihús, a vegan cafe in the city, and it was phenomenal.

I have also been to ones that are mixed, like at Hotel Borg. If you plan to experience an Icelandic Christmas buffet, make sure to show up hungry and open to trying types of cuisine that you might not ordinarily come across.

This guided tour by Your Friend in Reykjavik is a fantastic way to explore the city’s Christmas spirit. It offers a blend of history, culture, folklore, and holiday cheer, providing insights into how Icelanders celebrate Christmas. The walk around Reykjavík’s beautifully decorated streets, filled with stories and local lore, is an intimate way to experience the city’s festive heart.

If you use my code ALLTHINGSICELAND (in all caps) you can save 10% on your Christmas Walk with Your Friend in Reykjavík.

The Yule Lads are a unique and quirky part of Icelandic Christmas folklore. Searching for their projections on downtown buildings turns the city into a playful and magical scavenger hunt. It’s a fun, family-friendly activity.

On Reykjavik city’s website, they announced fun prizes that they are giving away for those who participate in the scavenger hunt. I have a link to that in the description of this episode on my website.

In December of 2021, I shared the Yule Lads poem on my podcast in Icelandic and English for each of the 13 days that they each come to town. I started on that day to introduce their troll mother Grýla and other members of their family, like the Yule Cat.

Located in the heart of Reykjavík, ice skating here is not just an activity; it’s an experience. Surrounded by the city’s festive lights and lively atmosphere, it’s a picturesque way to enjoy the Icelandic winter.

Usually, there are Icelandic santas, or Yule Lads, hanging out on the ice and playing with the kids. One warning that I think is worth mentioning is that the ice-skating rink here is not smooth.

It is a bit bumpy for a rink, so please be aware that can be harder to smoothly skate and easy to potentially fall. I am not sure why they are not able to make it smooth, especially since the ice-skating rink in Hafnarfjörður’s Christmas market is very smooth. I love to ice skate, so I had a blast doing it but I had to catch myself from falling a few times. Just a heads up for those that want to try it.

The Icelandic Christmas Markets in the Reykjavík area include  Ingólfstorg, Heiðmörk, Hjartatorg, and the Hafnarfjörður Christmas Village. They offer a cozy, cheerful atmosphere where you can find everything from unique handcrafted goods, traditional Icelandic Christmas treats and family fun activities. These markets are a hub of local culture and craftsmanship, perfect for experiencing the festive spirit of Iceland. Here are the open times for each of the markets:

Smack dab in the middle of the city‘s center is this Christmas Market. It is vibrant and will definitely have you in the holiday spirit, especially with the music playing and children gallivanting around. Along with the ice skating rink are food vendors. There are also stores, restaurants and cafes all around.

Opening times:Every day from  December 1st until December 23rd.

Hjartatorg means “heart square“ and this description fits well because this Christmas market is nestled in a area right off the main shopping street in downtown Reykjavík called Laugavegur. There are boths with people selling crafts of all kind. They are also food vendors and music.

Opening times: Weekends in December 13:00-18:00, December 23 from 16:00-21:00

The town of Hafnarfjörður transforms into a winter wonderland in December. It will take you about 20-25 minutes of driving to get there from downtown Reykjavik. There are lots of booths where you can buy locally made goods, like soaps, candles, drinks, and so much more.

If you keep walking in the small square you will see that they even have rides for kids like you would find at a fair. Their ice skating rink is small but the ice is smooth and easy to navigate. This is one of my favorite places to visit in Iceland during the Christmas season because there are also Icelandic yule lads (or santas) hanging around.

Opening times: Every Friday from 17:00 – 20:00; Saturday and Sunday from 13:00 – 18:00 during the weeks of Advent.

Heiðmörk is a beautiful, small forest that is part of Reykjavik but takes about 15-20 minutes of driving to get there. I love coming here for a couple of reasons. First, the lake where the Christmas market is located is insanely gorgeous, espcially when it freezes over.

The other is that this a great place to buy an Icelandic Christmas tree, if you are in the market for one. In Iceland, the Christmas trees look straggly compared to the full, robust trees you normally see in homes that celebrate Christams around the world. However, they have their own charm and in the past, I have purchased a tree that hardly came above my hips. It was adorable and so much easier to decorate.

Inside of the building there, they have a lovely spread of vendors selling all types of goods. It‘s fun to look around and buy a unique gift for yourself or a loved one.

Opening times: Starts on 26th November  and runs for every weekend until 18th December from 12:00 and 17:00

Places like the Hand Knitting Association of Iceland, Kirsuberjatréð shop, and Rammagerðin store are treasure troves of authentic Icelandic goods. From traditional sweaters to handcrafted items, these shops offer unique, high-quality gifts that carry the essence of Icelandic craftsmanship. Of course, there are many places to potentially buy gifts but I think those three are a great start.

The area of Laugardalur in Reykjavík transforms their botanic garden and surrounding park into a Christmas Village that is so lovely. There are tons of lights, a functioning Merry Go Round, the Christmas cat makes an appearance, gingerbread cookie decorating, and family puzzles at the open restaurant.

Open times: Daily from 10 am to 5 pm, with extended hours until 8 pm on Fridays to Sundays until Christmas.

Christmas at the Árbær Open Air Museum showcases how Icelanders celebrated Christmas before modern times. It is fascinating to see how traditional leaf bread (laufabrauð) is made, dancing and singing around the Christmas tree, wool being spun, and you can even taste traditional Icelandic hangiköt (smoked lamb). This museum is amazing to visit during anytime of the year but it is extra special during the Christmas season. This is the only place where you have to pay for admission because it is a museum.

Open times: Sunday, 10 December, and 17 December from 13:00-16:00.

Each of these activities offers a distinct slice of Icelandic Christmas culture, making for a holiday season filled with unique experiences and cherished memories.

Iceland lasts for 26 days in Iceland.  Now, technically, it is 13 days BUT, and that is a big but, the Icelandic Yule Lads start to come in almost mid-December. It starts on December 12th, when the first Yule Lad comes to town and ends on January 6th, when the last Yule lad leaves.

For those new to this tradition, there are 13 Icelandic santas or Yule Lads. One comes to day on each day starting on December 12th. The last one arrives on December 24th. On the very next day, December 25th, the first Yule Lad that arrived on the 12th leaves town to go back to his home in the mountains. So, on each day starting on December 25th, one by one each Yule Lad heads home.

Jólasveinar – Christmas Lads or the Icelandic Yule Lads

A reminder to make sure you use my discount code ALLTHINGSICELAND to save 10% on your Christmas Walk Tour with Your Friend in Reykjavik and over 40 other tours that they offer.

If you are enjoying the podcast, please leave a written review, if possible, or a rating so that other people interested in learning about Iceland can know what they will hear when they listen to the show. Thank you to everyone who has been leaving such wonderful reviews and sharing the show with others.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og gleðileg jól!

If you plan to visit Iceland in August, this information will help you to know what to expect when traveling during this month.

That includes the following:

This episode is part of a series about months in Iceland. Here are the other months.

Mel Loves Iceland from the U.S.

If you are enjoying the podcast, please leave a written review, if that is possible, on whatever platform you are listening to this on and you might here it in one of the episodes. Thank you to all of the people who have been leaving reviews and ratings. It helps others to know what they can expect to hear about Iceland when they listen.

In August, Iceland is as warm as it gets, though ‘warm’ is relative when talking about this subarctic island. Average temperatures hover around 10-15°C (50-59°F), with the possibility of warmer days reaching up to 20°C (68°F). However, Icelandic weather is notoriously unpredictable, so it’s not unusual to experience a little bit of everything – from sun to rain to fog – sometimes all within the same day.

One of the most extraordinary features of Iceland in August is the amount of daylight. While the midnight sun of June has passed, you can still enjoy long days with around 16 hours of daylight. Sunrise is usually around 5:00-6:00 AM, and sunset is around 9:00-10:00 PM. This extended daylight allows more time for exploring and experiencing the island.

August 1st

The sun rises at 04:33 and sets at 22:32 for a total of 17:58 of daylight

August 15th

The sun is up 05:17 and sets at 21:44 for a total of 16:26 of daylight

August 31st

At 6:06 AM, the sun comes up and at 8:48 PM the sun sets for a total of 14:42 of daylight

Layers are the key to comfort in Iceland. For August, you should pack:

My Ultimate Packing Checklist is linked in the show notes and will provide you with everything you need to bring. I recommend following the summer list. Just know that it can be a little chilly during the evening in July, especially in the north, so you will need some layers.

August is one of the best times for driving in Iceland as the roads are generally clear of snow and ice. However, always check road conditions before setting out, especially if you plan to drive in the highlands or on F-roads, which require a 4×4 vehicle.

Always be mindful of the changeable weather, and remember that off-road driving is illegal in Iceland to protect the delicate environment.

Due to the long day light hours, great road conditions, access to the highlands, and warmer weather, August is the second most popular month for people to visit Iceland. I highly recommend booking accommodations far in advance. Before the end of 2022, more than 70% of accommodations in the country were booked for the 2023 year.

If you know you want to visit Iceland during the summer, whether it is in 2024 or beyond, I strongly suggest booking your flights, accommodations, and car or camper van rental as soon as possible. Up to six months in advance for accommodations, car rentals and camper vans is not unheard of so that you can choose among the best options available during that time.

I want to give a shout-out to Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.

I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

August in Iceland is a dynamic, vibrant time filled with the best that nature has to offer. The blend of cultural festivities and the opportunity to explore the great outdoors make it one of the most desirable times for an Icelandic adventure.

The other is that if you’re interested in getting personalized trip planning advice from me, you can book me for a consultation via this link.

Another great resource is to grab full access to my Iceland map, you get over 250 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.

A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map.

There is a link to the my Iceland map in the Trip Planning Help tab at the top of this website or you can go directly to the site of my map on rexby.com/jewells/Iceland.

August is such a fun month because we are still in summer but as we get toward the end of the month, we have actual dark nights. This means that the northern lights can potentially be seen.

I and many others have experienced seeing the northern lights at the end of this month. While I wouldn’t try to come this month with the expectation of seeing them, it a pleasant surprise when they do appear.

Ágúst – August

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As you stroll the streets of Reykjavik, with its vibrantly painted houses and Mount Esja as a backdrop, you’re likely to encounter many four-legged and furry locals. Yes, cats are roaming freely around the city.

These furry residents are not only tolerated but adored by the city’s human inhabitants. Please know that these are not stray cats. Rather, they have homes, but their owners let them roam around to explore and interact with other living beings. After learning this fact, you might be wondering if dogs are given the same amount of adoration.

The short answer is that in present day, dogs are accepted in Reykjavik BUT cats are by far more numerous and widely accepted. The reason for this is that dogs were banned from living in the city for 60 years!

The story begins in the early 20th century. In 1924, Reykjavik authorities enacted a ban on dogs within the city limits. This ban was a response to two things. One was a housing shortage, which made authorities feel like it would be too much to also have dogs in the city. The second was that dogs were not considered hygienic because they could be carries of a deadly tapeworm that could be spread to humans.

At the time, the health risks posed by dogs were considered significant, and in the interest of public health, the city opted to ban them entirely. Even though dogs were banned in Reykjavik, they were still considered an integral part of farm life in the countryside because they worked on the farms, so people were allowed to have them out there.

For much of the 20th century, dogs were a rare sight in the city. Major spotlight was put on the ban’s legitimacy in the 1980s after some well-known public figures in Reykjavik continuously violated the ban by owning a dog within the city limits.

One of the people involved was Albert Guðmundsson, who was the minister of finance at the time. He was repeatedly fined for owning his dog Lucy, but he refused to pay what amounted to about $500 in fees. He was so steadfast in not paying that he invited the police to arrest him and send him to prison, which they never ended up doing.

Albert was not alone in illegally owning a dog. It’s estimated that about 3,000 dogs were living in the city at the time and the police would periodically fine owners. Most people didn’t see the reason for the ban any longer and in 1984 it was lifted.

While the ban has since been relaxed, tight regulation of dog ownership in the city was enforced for an additional 22 years. Special permits were required for dogs and the application process was tedious. This discouraged potential dog owners from getting a canine friend and kept the dog population in the city low.

Today, residents can own dogs but there are still strict regulations. For instance, dogs must be registered and there is a yearly dog registration fee. Additionally, there are strict residency, leash, vaccination and worming laws, just to name a few. There is even a whole document detailing all of the rules that I found on Reykjavik.is.

While strict rules have been in place for dogs, cats, on the other hand, did not and do not face such restrictions. They were traditionally seen as useful animals, keeping the rodent population in check, especially in a city surrounded by water where ships and fishing were common. Without any competition from their canine counterparts, cats quickly became the favored pet among city dwellers.

The cats of Reykjavik are a proud part of the city’s landscape. They are well-cared-for, with many locals taking it upon themselves to feed and watch over those that don’t have an obvious home. As I mentioned, these cats have homes/owners but they have neighborhood hang out spots. It’s not unusual to find water bowls and cozy shelters set up by residents for the community cats.

If you are a cat lover or are even just intrigued to see where some of these feline cuties hang out, then I think you’ll enjoy the Reykjavik Cat Walk Tour hosted by Your Friend in Reykjavik, a tour company that prides itself on offering authentic local experiences. You can use my code ALLTHINGSICELAND (in all caps) to save 10% on your Cat Walk Tour and over 45 other tours you book with Your Friend in Reykjavik.

I have personally done this walking tour and loved it. It’s surprising how many stops there and all of the adorable cats that can be found in their usual spots, if you know where to look.

There are even cat murals and, of course, a visit to the Cat Café. This café takes in cats that need a home and they roam freely around the cafe as people enjoy their drinks and food. The whole café is decorated in a cat theme, and it is incredibly cute. It is up to the cats if they want to interact with guests and a decent number of them do. During the visit to the cafe, some delicious treats like hot cocoa or coffee and cookies are included for tour participants. This walking tour is a delightful way to learn about Reykjavik from a different perspective.

Grab a spot on the Reykjavík Cat Walk Tour by booking below:

Please enable javascript in your browser to book

Today, as Reykjavik’s dog population slowly increases thanks to changing attitudes and laws, the city maintains its reputation as a cat’s paradise. Cats in Reykjavik aren’t just pets; they’re a symbol of the city’s past decisions trying to protect its residences and its commitment to animal welfare.

The plentiful population of cats versus the relatively few dogs seen on the streets serves as a daily, living reminder of a time when public health concerns overrode the companionship of man’s best friend. It underscores the long-lasting impact of legislation on local culture and how a city can adapt its identity around such laws.

There are some semi-famous Icelandic cats on Instagram. One of them is Baktus and if you want to follow his account, you can find him here.

Köttur – cat

Hundur – dog

I hope you found this episode fascinating and informative. If you are enjoying the All Things Iceland podcast, please leave review or rating on whichever platform you are listening to this on. It is greatly appreciated, and it helps others to know what they can expect when they listen.

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As I mentioned in the previous episode, residents of Grindavík have been evacuated. Scientists have been anticipating a potential eruption but no lava has come up to the surface as of right now. However, that doesn‘t mean damage has not been done.

The tens of thousands of earthquakes in Grindavik have resulted in major cracks in the earth opening up. There are literal holes in the streets where a whole car could fall in. Damage to buildings and parts of the town is extensive and it will take a lot of construction to restore the area. The restoration efforts can only happen once it is clear that an eruption will not happen and no one knows when that will be clear. Magma is still being detected close to under the surface beneath the town.

Due to the situation, the Blue Lagoon has announced it will remain closed until November 30th. There is no knowing if it will for sure open by November 30th but we shall see. One thing that is happening is the construction of lava barriers to around Svartstengi power station and the Blue Lagoon to protect them in the event of a volcanic eruption.

The barriers are estimated to be 20-26 feet high (6-8 meters) and will take a little over a month to complete. Protecting the power station is important because it provides hot water to all of the Reykjanes Peninsula.

In addition to the thousands of people who can‘t access their homes, over 2,000 workers and around 200 companies operate in this area. They have no idea when they will be allowed to be back to work or even the area.

Residents of Grindavik were allowed to access their homes to gather as much as they can within a 5-minute window. I know that sounds incredibly short. It is possible they had a little more time than that but is the time limit posted via news sources.

Residents had to leave their homes late at night and for many that meant they were forced to leave their pets behind. Dýrfinna, the search and rescue group for animals,  has been working on rescuing pets left behind. As of right now, they rescued 100s of animals but 12 of them are still unaccounted for. Most of the unaccounted for animals are cats who are used to roaming aorund free outside.

An excerpt from a news article on Iceland Reveiw about the Icelandic Government’s vote to fund the wall around the Blue Lagoon and power station.

Iceland Review

Donate to the Icelandic Red Cross‘s emergency fundraising campaign to support the response to the current situation in Grindavik.

https://www.raudikrossinn.is/english/donate/donate-now/

Thank you to everyone who has reached out to me and others asking if we are ok. It is only the people in Grindavik that have been evacuated. The airport and all other parts of the Reykjanes Peninsula are operating as usual. Will let you know if that changes.

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Iceland’s iconic Blue Lagoon closed recently and here is why.

Since the end of October, land has been rising and thousands of earthquakes have taken place on the Reykjanes Peninsula near the Blue Lagoon and a neighboring town called Grindavík.

Even though no one is certain an eruption will happen, land rising and tens of thousands of earthquakes, some strong enough to be felt in Reykjavík, are what happened before each of the last three eruptions on this peninsula. We’ve had an eruption each year since 2021. The one this past summer was the shortest and thankfully all of them were in areas on the peninsula where harm to towns or infrastructure was not an issue.

So the biggest difference between a potential eruption this time around and the other eruptions is proximity to infrastructure and towns. After public pressure and guests having difficulties feeling safe at the facility, the Blue Lagoon announced that it would close for one week to monitor the situation and reassess on November 16th.

As we wait to see what happens, authorities have put an emergency plan in place to prepare for the potential event of a nearby power plant being destroyed and an evacuation plan for the residents of Grindavik in the event that might need to leave the area.

This is obviously something that we in Iceland are not excited about at all in terms of the potential destruction of this eruption, if it were to happen in this specific area.

One helpful thing is that, as of right now, the magma being monitored has stopped moving closer to the surface. In essence, it doesn’t look like magma is about to break through. However, that could change.

Also, today, November 10th, a state of emergency was declared by the National Police Commissioner due to an intense earthquake at Sundhnúkagíga. Apparently, there were two of them. One was 5.2 and the other 5.3 This was done to take precautions because bigger earthquakes are expected. I felt that big one tonight. The floor was rumbling and my light fixtures were swaying.

For those wondering, I live in the downtown Rekjavík area. While many here have felt decently big earthquakes, I have not. I know this last one was powerful because I felt it, so I can only imagine how tough that is for people living in Grindavík who are experiencing thousands of them

I think it is helpful to point out that his does not mean that all of Iceland is in danger or even the airport, which is on this peninsula. It is specifically this area near the Blue Lagoon, Mount Þórbjörn, a power station, and Grindavík. If you have a trip planned, it should be fine.

If this progresses, I will for sure update you but let’s hope that an eruption in this area doesn’t happen.

Also, there are other spas or pools you can visit, like the Sky Lagoon near Reykjavík, Hvammsvík near Borganes, and the local swimming pools are amazing. A great one to visit is Laugardalslaug in Reykjavík. It is big, has many hot tubs, a huge slide, a sauna, steam room, Olympic-sized lap pool as well as a gym and spa attached to it.

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Welcome to this special Halloween episode of All Things Iceland. Today I’m sharing about Iceland’s haunted hot spring called Gunnuhver on the Reykjanes Peninsula. The Reykjanes Peninsula is the same area where the Blue Lagoon, the international airport, and our last eruption are located. It’s an area that most visitors never explore extensively and yet there are fascinated attractions, places to eat, accommodations, and, of course, this haunted hot spring.

Gunnuhver is named after a woman named after Guðrún Önundardóttir, who also went by the name Gunna. It is said she lived in Sandgerði on the Reykjanes peninsula more than 400 years ago. The placed she lived in was owned by a lawyer named Vilhjálmur Jónsson. One day when Gunna was not able to pay her rent, Vilhjálmur came and took the only thing that she owned, which was a cooking pot.

This enraged Gunna because that is all she had to make food and now it was gone. She decided to go on a starvation protest until her cooking pot was given back to her but Vilhjálmur never relented and she died. The men that carried her coffin to the cemetery noticed at some point that it had become suspiciously light.  I guess they would not dare open it, so they continued on to the grave site where she would be buried

As they dug her grave, a mysterious voice was heard saying “No need deep to dig, no plans long to lie”. The next day Vilhljálmur’s body was found blue and with broken bones. The spirit of Gunna had haunted him. Of course, this sparked concern in towns people, so a priest was called in.

The priest devised a plan to caste Gunna’s spirit into the bubbling hot spring and it worked. To this day, it is said that when you visit this hot spring you can see the face of a woman in the billows of steam trying to escape.

Along with being haunted, Gunnuhver is also Iceland’s largest mud pool. It is 20 meters wide across the rim, which is about 65 feet. Mud pools are formed when steam from the boiling geothermal reservoir water comes out and mixes with surface water. When fresh lava rock in the area encounters the gases like carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide, that are produced from the geothermal water and surface mixing, they turn to clay.

Gleðilega Hrekkjavöku (Happy Halloween) – hrekkur means prank and vaka means to awake

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

Over the years, I have traveled extensively around Iceland in a camper van, so the pros and cons I’m sharing in this episode are from personal experience.  While the list might not cover every possible pro and con, I think it will give you enough insight about the experience to help you decide if this is something you want to do.

If you plan to rent a camper van, I highly recommend using Go Campers. I’ve use two of their campers on long road trips. One was the Go Lite Automatic camper and the other is Go Big Automatic Camper. They have a large selection of campers available, great customer service, and competitive rates. When you use my link with Go Campers (https://www.gocampers.is/?ref=allthingsiceland) you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

to get the sleeping bag included, choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

1. Save Money: Renting a camper van can be more cost-effective than constantly checking into hotels or guesthouses every night. By having your accommodation on wheels, you can reduce the expenses of your trip significantly.

2. Travel Flexibility: One of the greatest joys of a camper van is the freedom it offers. You’re not bound by hotel check-in/check-out times, and you can decide to stay longer in a place you love or move on if you’re ready for a change of scenery.

3. Icelandic Campsites: While this can also be a con (more on that later), many of Iceland’s campsites are situated in breathtaking locations. Waking up to a waterfall, geysers, or vast landscapes can be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I recommend using the website tjalda.is to find campsites in Iceland.

4. Variety of Camper Vans: Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or with a family, there’s a camper van to fit your needs. From basic models to luxurious ones with all amenities, the choices are plentiful.

5. So Many Places to Explore: Iceland is replete with natural wonders, from the Blue Lagoon to the colorful mountains in the Icelandic highlands. With a camper van, you have the convenience of stopping at off-the-beaten-path locations, making your trip even more memorable.

6. What Comes with a Camper Van: Most camper vans come equipped with cooking facilities, bedding, and sometimes even Wi-Fi. This means less to pack and a more comfortable journey overall. A heater, electric cooler, a sink and different amenities are available on what kind of van you choose.

1. Icelandic Campsites: Here’s the flip side – not all campsites are created equal. Some might be crowded, especially during peak tourist season, and may lack essential facilities.

2. Using the Bathroom at Night: Most camper vans don’t come with a toilet. So, those midnight nature calls can be a bit challenging, especially if you’re parked far from campsite facilities or in more isolated areas.

3. Extra Camper Van Costs: While the van itself might seem like a bargain, remember to factor in the cost of fuel, campsite fees, and any additional equipment or insurance you might need.

4. Icelandic Weather: Iceland’s weather is notorious for its unpredictability. Driving a camper van in strong winds, rain, or snow can be challenging. And even if you’re not driving, being cooped up in a small space during bad weather can be less than ideal.

5. Confined Space: Even the most spacious camper vans can feel tight after a few days, especially if you’re traveling with others. It requires a certain level of adaptability and patience. Here are some packing cubes that are so useful to use for your camper van adventures.

6. When Campsites Are Open: Not all campsites are open year-round. If you’re traveling during the off-season, you might find limited options, which can pose challenges for where you can legally and safely park for the night.

For the full list of essentials of what to pack and wear in Iceland, grab my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.

My favorite campsite in Iceland is called Heydalur in the West fjords. They have such amazing facilities, like a gorgeous pool in a greenhouse, geothermal hot springs, beautiful grounds, a hotel, a restaurant and more.

Ferðabíll or Húsbíll – camper van

If you plan to visit Iceland in July, this information will help you to know what to expect when traveling during this month. That includes road conditions, what to wear/pack, what makes it worth it to visit during that month, some tips on driving in that time, top activities, and events that happen annually during this month.

July is one of the warmest months in Iceland, though “warm” by Icelandic standards might be considered mild in many other places. Daytime temperatures usually hover around 10°C to 15°C (50°F to 59°F). However, in particularly sunny conditions, it can reach up to 20°C (68°F). Nighttime temperatures rarely go below 8°C (46°F). It’s also one of the drier months, but always be prepared for rain or drizzle.

One of the most enchanting features of Iceland in July is the phenomenon known as the Midnight Sun. This is when the sun barely sets or doesn’t set at all. In Reykjavik, the sun can set around midnight and rise again around 3 AM, but it never gets truly dark. The further north you go, the more pronounced this effect is.

July 1st – Sunrise is at 03:05 AM and sunset is at 11:56 PM. 20 hours and 51 minutes of daylight can be expected.

On July 15th, you can expect the sun to rise at 3:40 AM and sunset is at 11:24 PM. You will have 19 hours and 45 minutes of daylight at this time.

The last day of the month, July 31st, has slightly less day light but not much! You can expect the sun to come up at 4:30 AM and set at 10:35 PM. That amounts to 18 hours and 5 minutes of daylight.

For the full list of essentials of what to pack and wear in Iceland, grab my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.

July is one of the best months for driving in Iceland. Most of the highland roads (F-roads) that are closed during the winter due to snow and muddy conditions start to open up in late June to early July, providing access to Iceland’s rugged interior. Nonetheless, always check road conditions before traveling, especially if heading to the highlands. Car rental companies will provide necessary information, and you can also use the website of the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration.

Due to the long day light hours, great road conditions, access to the highlands, and warmer weather, July is the most popular month for people to visit Iceland. I highly recommend booking accommodations far in advance. Before the end of 2022, more than 70% of accommodations in the country were booked for the 2023 year.

If you know you want to visit Iceland during the summer, whether it is in 2024 or beyond, I strongly suggest booking your flights, accommodations, and car or camper van rental as soon as possible. Up to six months in advance for accommodations, car rentals and camper vans is not unheard of so that you can choose among the best options available during that time.

I want to give a shout-out to Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.

I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

July is an interesting time in Iceland because it’s when many Icelanders go on vacation. So, they are not major events or holidays happening during this month but there are still annual activities that might be of interest.

If you want even more recommendations on amazing things to do, I have a few options for helping you plan your epic adventure in Iceland. The links to all of these options are under the “trip planning help” tab at the top of this website.

One option is a one-to-one hour-long video consultation with me. After filling out a short survey and choosing a date in my calendar that works for both of us, we hop on a Google Meet video call and discuss how you can best use your time. I have done 82 of these so far and it’s been a blast virtually meeting many of my podcast listeners and social media followers. I’ve also had great feedback about how helpful those calls have been for those that booked.

If you prefer not to jump on a video call but you want more personalized help, you can purchase a personalized itinerary that I will make for you.

Lastly, if you feel like planning it all yourself is preferred but you want to know about hidden gems and places you just might not be aware of, you can grab My Iceland Map. I have compiled over 250 awesome places, activities, accommodations and more in this map.

If you decide to get full access to it, you will also receive all of the pre-set itineraries I have made. Those itineraries include a 10-day epic Summer Ring Road Adventure, a 3-day South Coast Adventure, The Famous Golden Circle Route, and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day trip itinerary. Additionally, if I make any updates to the map, such as new places, you will get those updates too since you have lifetime access.

It is said that Iceland averages 171 hours of sunlight during this month.

Júlí – July

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

Winter is Iceland often has many potential visitors shaking in their boots. To be fair, the country is called Iceland, so I understand people being a bit worried about the weather conditions and wondering if winter is a good time for them to visit.

When this episode is published, we are in autumn and winter is fast approaching. While you might be tempted to shy away from exploring this island of fire and ice in the North Atlantic during the winter season, my aim is to share with you why Iceland is worth visit during the winter, despite some potential challenging conditions.

Imagine a world painted in shades of white, blue, and gold. Snow-capped mountains stand against a backdrop of golden-hued skies, with frosted landscapes spanning as far as the eye can see lining the roads.

Fully or half frozen waterfalls look like the works of a sculpture, and steam rises mysteriously from geothermal pools amidst the snowy expanse. This is Iceland in winter – a beautiful wonderland that offers otherworldly landscapes at every turn.

One of the most distinct features of Icelandic winters is the prolonged darkness. With just a few hours of daylight during the peak of winter, you might wonder if it will hinder you from having a great time. While it does mean that you don’t have endless hours of daylight to explore like during summer, dark days have their charm too.

When the sun is up, the soft illumination casts the landscapes in gorgeous hues, making every moment feel like golden hour. During the night, the snowy and ice help to not make it seem so dark. Plus, long, dark nights mean you have more hours to potentially see the surreal northern lights.

Winter in Iceland generally spans from November to March, with December and January being the darkest and coldest months. This is the ideal period to embrace the unique experiences Iceland offers during this season.

I have been doing individual episodes of what to expect during each month in Iceland.  I started it in 2023. For winter, I have already have January, February, and March. Links to those and the ones I do for November and December soon will be linked here as well.

Average Temperature range in the capital area in Iceland during winter is around zero degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit. It is a bit chillier in the north, often going below zero. However, we do get cold spells from time to time and I talk about just how cold it has gotten here a little later. You can also expect snow storms and occasional wind storms too.

Most rental car companies put studded tires on their vehicles. They come in handy whether you are driving in the city or in the countryside.

My go-to car rental company is Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers for a camper van.

I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

Journeying around Iceland in winter can be a magical experience. Roads might take you past ice-laden waterfalls like Seljalandsfoss or through snowy landscapes in the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Consider joining guided tours, especially for activities like glacier hiking or ice caving, as professionals will know the safest routes and times.

Often, it is expected that parts of the far North, Westfjords, and Eastfjords will have more intense winter conditions than in the south. For instance, it is uncommon for snow to pile up higher than the top of the front door in remote areas like the West fjords and East fjords.

I have traveled to North Iceland many times during the winter and thoroughly enjoyed it, so please don’t think the whole north is off limits. It mainly depends on the conditions when you are visiting and if there are any storm warnings.

Ah, the pièce de résistance of winter in Iceland! The aurora borealis, dancing across the night sky in ribbons of green, pink, and purple, is a sight to behold. The long nights increase your chances of witnessing this natural wonder, especially in areas with minimal light pollution.

If you want to know more about the Northern Lights, I recommend checking out my episode titled “How & Where to See in the Northern Lights in Iceland“.

Get more packing essentials in my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.

As I mentioned earlier in the episode, Iceland is not as cold as people might expect. BUT, we did have a very cold December last year.

According to Iceladnd Monitor,

“Last December was the coldest December in the country since 1973, or for almost half a century ago, with an average temperature in the country -4.0 degrees Celsius or 24.8 degrees Fahrenheit.

December has not been as cold in over 100 years in Reykjavík, but the last time it was this cold in the capital was in December 1916, according to the Met Office.”

Vetur – winter

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Over the summer, I had the pleasure of traveling around Iceland, which has become an annual trip for me in the last few years. To my surprise, I always get to experience something new each time. East Iceland has a lot of hidden gems, so don’t skip out on making time for this area.

Sænautasel, the turf houses and farm I m featuring in this episode, and hundreds of other attractions, activities, and accommodations in Iceland are available on My Iceland Map. I have added over 50 places since I launched my Iceland map in July and it is constantly being updated.

If you grab the full access to my Iceland map, you get over 250 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.

A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map. Until October 1st, 2023, I am providing a 10% discount on full access and my wonderful podcast listeners are the first ones I am sharing this discount with. 

To get the 10% discount, use the code “take10”, that is the word take in lowercase and the number 10.

There is a link to the my Iceland map in the Trip Planning Help tab at the top of this website or you can go directly to the site of my map on rexby.com/jewells/Iceland

In some of my other episodes about the Icelandic highlands, you might have heard me say that no one lives in this area of the country even though it consists of about 80% of the land mass of Iceland. The reason for this is that the Icelandic highlands do not have a lot of fertile land, they are higher up in elevation which means it can be much colder and the weather is even more variable there. Well, there was a time when some people did live in the highlands.

Starting in 1843, some Icelanders chose to live among the gorgeous landscapes of Jökuldalsheiði heath, which is known as Sænautasel farm. In 1875, the ferocious eruption of the Askja caldera forced the abandonment of this farm. But five years later, the former inhabitants returned and rebuilt.

Over the years volcanic onslaughts and other natural disruptions challenged those living there but they persisted. Like many houses in Iceland during this time the buildings were made of turf. Turf houses are literally made of sod, turf and stone stacked in an ingenious way to provide shelter and insulation from harsh Icelandic weather.

One of the major downfalls of living in a turf house is that they need to be reconstructed because the material can wear away due to the elements. Granted, that happens with most materials, but it can happen faster with turf. So, the turf houses underwent several reconstructions but never lost their charm. 1943 was the last year that anyone lived full-time in these houses. The allure of the more modern world beckoned people down from the highlands.

The most recent rebirth of the turf houses was in 1992 by descendants of the last residents. A few of houses were turned into a living museum and lovely café. I visited Sænautasel on a rainy and foggy day with my Icelandic friend Hrafndís Bara, who grew up in East Iceland.

After parking in the lot, we were greeted by Icelandic sheep at the gate to enter. Most sheep here are not fond of people but you can tell that these sheep have grown accustomed to interacting with humans. They acted more like dogs than sheep and it was cute. Since it was summer, the first thing I noticed was how lush and green the roofs of the turf houses look.

The first house we entered was the café and I was enamored with it right away. One thing to remember is that the doorways of these old houses are short, so watch your head when you enter!

It is so cozy and the setup is lovely. There are long tables decorated with table clothes, lit candles, teacups, tea kettles and more. The walls are lined with traditional Icelandic sweaters (lopapeysa) for sale and interesting knick knacks are around. Because it was a bit chilly that day, they even have the fire place going, which added to how cozy it felt.

In the café, they serve lummur (basically a pancake), coffee, tea, and hot chocolate.

The most astonishing thing is that they had vegan pancakes and hot chocolate! I almost hugged the lady making the food because I was so excited. The food did not disappoint! The panckaes have a nice crispy outside and moist inside. Traditionally, Icelanders put raisins in their lummur but you can have them without it.

The other house, just steps away from the café, is where you can see how people lived between 1843 and 1943. The kitchen, pantry, and storage for certain animals are fascinating. The earthy floors, and walls of rock make the place look like it is in a time capsule. It can be quite dark in there so make sure to watch your step.

One area of the house is an actual apartment that people can rent to stay overnight. It’s small but very nice and you sleep in a loft area. I feel like that would be the ultimate way to experience being back in time, even though there are modern things in that section of the house.

While the charm of the place has been kept intact as much as possible, there have been some modern upgrades for the comfort of the family that stays here over the summer and guests. For instance, there is running water and modern toilets.

If you would like to visit Sænautasel, it is only available during the summer months from June to September. This place is such a hidden gem that the owners only have their website in Icelandic because that is who mainly comes to visit. I have a link to their site in the description. I recommend using Google Translate if you need help. Luckily, there are not a lot of words on the page and the owners speak English well.

If you are into fishing, the Sænaut lake is about 20 km from the turf houses and is said to have a lot of Char living in it. You can either camp nearby or stay at the turf houses. While I have never been fishing in Iceland, I am pretty sure you need a fishing card to do this activity.

These lovely turf houses and cafe are only an hour‘s drive from Egilsstaðir, which is the largest town in East Iceland. Most visitors drive through Egilsstaðir when visiting this part of the country.

To reach Sænatuasel, you can have to drive for a short distance on F907. For those that have listened to my Ultimate Guide for Renting a Car in Iceland episode, you know that you need a 4×4 vehicle that is insured for F-roads to drive on them. If you have not checked out that episode, I highly recommend that you do. I packed it with all the info you need to make an informed decision about which kind of car to rent for your adventure in Iceland.

Sænautasel offers an untouched slice of Icelandic heritage. Whether you’re a history buff, a literary enthusiast, or simply in search of beauty and serenity, Sænautasel promises an experience like no other. If it fits into the time you have in Iceland, I hope you check it out.

My go-to car rental company is Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers for a camper van.

I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

One awesome random fact is that it’s said Halldór Laxness, Iceland’s only Nobel laureate was deeply inspired by the life and struggles of the people that lived at Sænautasel that this place inspired him when he wrote “Sjálfstætt fólk – Independent People”.

Sænautasel literally means a place to call home by a lake called Sænaut. It is said to be a huge monster that is sort of like a whale. It is said to be somewhat friendly. One funny story I read is that people used to ride on them back in the day during summertime. Maybe when you visit you might spot one.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.