Welcome to this special Halloween episode of All Things Iceland. Today I’m sharing about Iceland’s haunted hot spring called Gunnuhver on the Reykjanes Peninsula. The Reykjanes Peninsula is the same area where the Blue Lagoon, the international airport, and our last eruption are located. It’s an area that most visitors never explore extensively and yet there are fascinated attractions, places to eat, accommodations, and, of course, this haunted hot spring.

Gunnuhver is named after a woman named after Guðrún Önundardóttir, who also went by the name Gunna. It is said she lived in Sandgerði on the Reykjanes peninsula more than 400 years ago. The placed she lived in was owned by a lawyer named Vilhjálmur Jónsson. One day when Gunna was not able to pay her rent, Vilhjálmur came and took the only thing that she owned, which was a cooking pot.

This enraged Gunna because that is all she had to make food and now it was gone. She decided to go on a starvation protest until her cooking pot was given back to her but Vilhjálmur never relented and she died. The men that carried her coffin to the cemetery noticed at some point that it had become suspiciously light.  I guess they would not dare open it, so they continued on to the grave site where she would be buried

As they dug her grave, a mysterious voice was heard saying “No need deep to dig, no plans long to lie”. The next day Vilhljálmur’s body was found blue and with broken bones. The spirit of Gunna had haunted him. Of course, this sparked concern in towns people, so a priest was called in.

The priest devised a plan to caste Gunna’s spirit into the bubbling hot spring and it worked. To this day, it is said that when you visit this hot spring you can see the face of a woman in the billows of steam trying to escape.

Along with being haunted, Gunnuhver is also Iceland’s largest mud pool. It is 20 meters wide across the rim, which is about 65 feet. Mud pools are formed when steam from the boiling geothermal reservoir water comes out and mixes with surface water. When fresh lava rock in the area encounters the gases like carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide, that are produced from the geothermal water and surface mixing, they turn to clay.

Gleðilega Hrekkjavöku (Happy Halloween) – hrekkur means prank and vaka means to awake

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

Over the years, I have traveled extensively around Iceland in a camper van, so the pros and cons I’m sharing in this episode are from personal experience.  While the list might not cover every possible pro and con, I think it will give you enough insight about the experience to help you decide if this is something you want to do.

If you plan to rent a camper van, I highly recommend using Go Campers. I’ve use two of their campers on long road trips. One was the Go Lite Automatic camper and the other is Go Big Automatic Camper. They currently have a large selection of campers available, great customer service, and competitive rates. When you use my code iceland7, you save 7% and get two free duvets with your GO Campers van rental.

1. Save Money: Renting a camper van can be more cost-effective than constantly checking into hotels or guesthouses every night. By having your accommodation on wheels, you can reduce the expenses of your trip significantly.

2. Travel Flexibility: One of the greatest joys of a camper van is the freedom it offers. You’re not bound by hotel check-in/check-out times, and you can decide to stay longer in a place you love or move on if you’re ready for a change of scenery.

3. Icelandic Campsites: While this can also be a con (more on that later), many of Iceland’s campsites are situated in breathtaking locations. Waking up to a waterfall, geysers, or vast landscapes can be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I recommend using the website tjalda.is to find campsites in Iceland.

4. Variety of Camper Vans: Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or with a family, there’s a camper van to fit your needs. From basic models to luxurious ones with all amenities, the choices are plentiful.

5. So Many Places to Explore: Iceland is replete with natural wonders, from the Blue Lagoon to the colorful mountains in the Icelandic highlands. With a camper van, you have the convenience of stopping at off-the-beaten-path locations, making your trip even more memorable.

6. What Comes with a Camper Van: Most camper vans come equipped with cooking facilities, bedding, and sometimes even Wi-Fi. This means less to pack and a more comfortable journey overall. A heater, electric cooler, a sink and different amenities are available on what kind of van you choose.

1. Icelandic Campsites: Here’s the flip side – not all campsites are created equal. Some might be crowded, especially during peak tourist season, and may lack essential facilities.

2. Using the Bathroom at Night: Most camper vans don’t come with a toilet. So, those midnight nature calls can be a bit challenging, especially if you’re parked far from campsite facilities or in more isolated areas.

3. Extra Camper Van Costs: While the van itself might seem like a bargain, remember to factor in the cost of fuel, campsite fees, and any additional equipment or insurance you might need.

4. Icelandic Weather: Iceland’s weather is notorious for its unpredictability. Driving a camper van in strong winds, rain, or snow can be challenging. And even if you’re not driving, being cooped up in a small space during bad weather can be less than ideal.

5. Confined Space: Even the most spacious camper vans can feel tight after a few days, especially if you’re traveling with others. It requires a certain level of adaptability and patience. Here are some packing cubes that are so useful to use for your camper van adventures.

6. When Campsites Are Open: Not all campsites are open year-round. If you’re traveling during the off-season, you might find limited options, which can pose challenges for where you can legally and safely park for the night.

For the full list of essentials of what to pack and wear in Iceland, grab my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.

My favorite campsite in Iceland is called Heydalur in the West fjords. They have such amazing facilities, like a gorgeous pool in a greenhouse, geothermal hot springs, beautiful grounds, a hotel, a restaurant and more.

Ferðabíll or Húsbíll – camper van

If you plan to visit Iceland in July, this information will help you to know what to expect when traveling during this month. That includes road conditions, what to wear/pack, what makes it worth it to visit during that month, some tips on driving in that time, top activities, and events that happen annually during this month.

July is one of the warmest months in Iceland, though “warm” by Icelandic standards might be considered mild in many other places. Daytime temperatures usually hover around 10°C to 15°C (50°F to 59°F). However, in particularly sunny conditions, it can reach up to 20°C (68°F). Nighttime temperatures rarely go below 8°C (46°F). It’s also one of the drier months, but always be prepared for rain or drizzle.

One of the most enchanting features of Iceland in July is the phenomenon known as the Midnight Sun. This is when the sun barely sets or doesn’t set at all. In Reykjavik, the sun can set around midnight and rise again around 3 AM, but it never gets truly dark. The further north you go, the more pronounced this effect is.

July 1st – Sunrise is at 03:05 AM and sunset is at 11:56 PM. 20 hours and 51 minutes of daylight can be expected.

On July 15th, you can expect the sun to rise at 3:40 AM and sunset is at 11:24 PM. You will have 19 hours and 45 minutes of daylight at this time.

The last day of the month, July 31st, has slightly less day light but not much! You can expect the sun to come up at 4:30 AM and set at 10:35 PM. That amounts to 18 hours and 5 minutes of daylight.

For the full list of essentials of what to pack and wear in Iceland, grab my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.

July is one of the best months for driving in Iceland. Most of the highland roads (F-roads) that are closed during the winter due to snow and muddy conditions start to open up in late June to early July, providing access to Iceland’s rugged interior. Nonetheless, always check road conditions before traveling, especially if heading to the highlands. Car rental companies will provide necessary information, and you can also use the website of the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration.

Due to the long day light hours, great road conditions, access to the highlands, and warmer weather, July is the most popular month for people to visit Iceland. I highly recommend booking accommodations far in advance. Before the end of 2022, more than 70% of accommodations in the country were booked for the 2023 year.

If you know you want to visit Iceland during the summer, whether it is in 2024 or beyond, I strongly suggest booking your flights, accommodations, and car or camper van rental as soon as possible. Up to six months in advance for accommodations, car rentals and camper vans is not unheard of so that you can choose among the best options available during that time.

Go Car Rental Iceland is a local Icelandic car rental company that has great customer service, a large variety of cars and very competitive prices. Use my code Iceland10 to save 10% off the entire cost of your rental car.

I personally use them for when I go on adventures, and I’m so glad to hear that many of my listeners and subscribers are also having a great experience with them. I mentioned in a previous episode that one of my listeners switched to Go Car Rental Iceland from one of the internationally known rental car companies here and she saved $400! That was for a rental during the summer when prices can sometimes double due to demand.

If you plan to use a campervan, use my code Iceland7 to save 7% and get two free duvets with your GO Camper van rental. Also, I have a great episode coming up soon about how to choose the right camper van for your travels in Iceland, so keep an eye out for that.

July is an interesting time in Iceland because it’s when many Icelanders go on vacation. So, they are not major events or holidays happening during this month but there are still annual activities that might be of interest.

If you want even more recommendations on amazing things to do, I have a few options for helping you plan your epic adventure in Iceland. The links to all of these options are under the “trip planning help” tab at the top of this website.

One option is a one-to-one hour-long video consultation with me. After filling out a short survey and choosing a date in my calendar that works for both of us, we hop on a Google Meet video call and discuss how you can best use your time. I have done 82 of these so far and it’s been a blast virtually meeting many of my podcast listeners and social media followers. I’ve also had great feedback about how helpful those calls have been for those that booked.

If you prefer not to jump on a video call but you want more personalized help, you can purchase a personalized itinerary that I will make for you.

Lastly, if you feel like planning it all yourself is preferred but you want to know about hidden gems and places you just might not be aware of, you can grab My Iceland Map. I have compiled over 250 awesome places, activities, accommodations and more in this map.

If you decide to get full access to it, you will also receive all of the pre-set itineraries I have made. Those itineraries include a 10-day epic Summer Ring Road Adventure, a 3-day South Coast Adventure, The Famous Golden Circle Route, and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day trip itinerary. Additionally, if I make any updates to the map, such as new places, you will get those updates too since you have lifetime access.

It is said that Iceland averages 171 hours of sunlight during this month.

Júlí – July

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

Winter is Iceland often has many potential visitors shaking in their boots. To be fair, the country is called Iceland, so I understand people being a bit worried about the weather conditions and wondering if winter is a good time for them to visit.

When this episode is published, we are in autumn and winter is fast approaching. While you might be tempted to shy away from exploring this island of fire and ice in the North Atlantic during the winter season, my aim is to share with you why Iceland is worth visit during the winter, despite some potential challenging conditions.

Imagine a world painted in shades of white, blue, and gold. Snow-capped mountains stand against a backdrop of golden-hued skies, with frosted landscapes spanning as far as the eye can see lining the roads.

Fully or half frozen waterfalls look like the works of a sculpture, and steam rises mysteriously from geothermal pools amidst the snowy expanse. This is Iceland in winter – a beautiful wonderland that offers otherworldly landscapes at every turn.

One of the most distinct features of Icelandic winters is the prolonged darkness. With just a few hours of daylight during the peak of winter, you might wonder if it will hinder you from having a great time. While it does mean that you don’t have endless hours of daylight to explore like during summer, dark days have their charm too.

When the sun is up, the soft illumination casts the landscapes in gorgeous hues, making every moment feel like golden hour. During the night, the snowy and ice help to not make it seem so dark. Plus, long, dark nights mean you have more hours to potentially see the surreal northern lights.

Winter in Iceland generally spans from November to March, with December and January being the darkest and coldest months. This is the ideal period to embrace the unique experiences Iceland offers during this season.

I have been doing individual episodes of what to expect during each month in Iceland.  I started it in 2023. For winter, I have already have January, February, and March. Links to those and the ones I do for November and December soon will be linked here as well.

Average Temperature range in the capital area in Iceland during winter is around zero degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit. It is a bit chillier in the north, often going below zero. However, we do get cold spells from time to time and I talk about just how cold it has gotten here a little later. You can also expect snow storms and occasional wind storms too.

Most rental car companies put studded tires on their vehicles. They come in handy whether you are driving in the city or in the countryside.

My go-to car rental company is Go Car Rental Iceland. I use them for all of my adventures throughout the seasons. They have a large variety of cars, competitive prices, and great customer service. When you can use my code Iceland10, you save 10% on your full car rental cost with them.

Also, if you are curious about which 4×4 I drive during the winter, it is the Mitsubishi Eclipse PHEV.

Journeying around Iceland in winter can be a magical experience. Roads might take you past ice-laden waterfalls like Seljalandsfoss or through snowy landscapes in the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Consider joining guided tours, especially for activities like glacier hiking or ice caving, as professionals will know the safest routes and times.

Often, it is expected that parts of the far North, Westfjords, and Eastfjords will have more intense winter conditions than in the south. For instance, it is uncommon for snow to pile up higher than the top of the front door in remote areas like the West fjords and East fjords.

I have traveled to North Iceland many times during the winter and thoroughly enjoyed it, so please don’t think the whole north is off limits. It mainly depends on the conditions when you are visiting and if there are any storm warnings.

Ah, the pièce de résistance of winter in Iceland! The aurora borealis, dancing across the night sky in ribbons of green, pink, and purple, is a sight to behold. The long nights increase your chances of witnessing this natural wonder, especially in areas with minimal light pollution.

If you want to know more about the Northern Lights, I recommend checking out my episode titled “How & Where to See in the Northern Lights in Iceland“.

Get more packing essentials in my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.

As I mentioned earlier in the episode, Iceland is not as cold as people might expect. BUT, we did have a very cold December last year.

According to Iceladnd Monitor,

“Last December was the coldest December in the country since 1973, or for almost half a century ago, with an average temperature in the country -4.0 degrees Celsius or 24.8 degrees Fahrenheit.

December has not been as cold in over 100 years in Reykjavík, but the last time it was this cold in the capital was in December 1916, according to the Met Office.”

Vetur – winter

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Over the summer, I had the pleasure of traveling around Iceland, which has become an annual trip for me in the last few years. To my surprise, I always get to experience something new each time. East Iceland has a lot of hidden gems, so don’t skip out on making time for this area.

Sænautasel, the turf houses and farm I m featuring in this episode, and hundreds of other attractions, activities, and accommodations in Iceland are available on My Iceland Map. I have added over 50 places since I launched my Iceland map in July and it is constantly being updated.

If you grab the full access to my Iceland map, you get over 250 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.

A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map. Until October 1st, 2023, I am providing a 10% discount on full access and my wonderful podcast listeners are the first ones I am sharing this discount with.

To get the 10% discount, use the code “take10”, that is the word take in lowercase and the number 10.

There is a link to the my Iceland map in the Trip Planning Help tab at the top of this website or you can go directly to the site of my map on rexby.com/jewells/Iceland

In some of my other episodes about the Icelandic highlands, you might have heard me say that no one lives in this area of the country even though it consists of about 80% of the land mass of Iceland. The reason for this is that the Icelandic highlands do not have a lot of fertile land, they are higher up in elevation which means it can be much colder and the weather is even more variable there. Well, there was a time when some people did live in the highlands.

Starting in 1843, some Icelanders chose to live among the gorgeous landscapes of Jökuldalsheiði heath, which is known as Sænautasel farm. In 1875, the ferocious eruption of the Askja caldera forced the abandonment of this farm. But five years later, the former inhabitants returned and rebuilt.

Over the years volcanic onslaughts and other natural disruptions challenged those living there but they persisted. Like many houses in Iceland during this time the buildings were made of turf. Turf houses are literally made of sod, turf and stone stacked in an ingenious way to provide shelter and insulation from harsh Icelandic weather.

One of the major downfalls of living in a turf house is that they need to be reconstructed because the material can wear away due to the elements. Granted, that happens with most materials, but it can happen faster with turf. So, the turf houses underwent several reconstructions but never lost their charm. 1943 was the last year that anyone lived full-time in these houses. The allure of the more modern world beckoned people down from the highlands.

The most recent rebirth of the turf houses was in 1992 by descendants of the last residents. A few of houses were turned into a living museum and lovely café. I visited Sænautasel on a rainy and foggy day with my Icelandic friend Hrafndís Bara, who grew up in East Iceland.

After parking in the lot, we were greeted by Icelandic sheep at the gate to enter. Most sheep here are not fond of people but you can tell that these sheep have grown accustomed to interacting with humans. They acted more like dogs than sheep and it was cute. Since it was summer, the first thing I noticed was how lush and green the roofs of the turf houses look.

The first house we entered was the café and I was enamored with it right away. One thing to remember is that the doorways of these old houses are short, so watch your head when you enter!

It is so cozy and the setup is lovely. There are long tables decorated with table clothes, lit candles, teacups, tea kettles and more. The walls are lined with traditional Icelandic sweaters (lopapeysa) for sale and interesting knick knacks are around. Because it was a bit chilly that day, they even have the fire place going, which added to how cozy it felt.

In the café, they serve lummur (basically a pancake), coffee, tea, and hot chocolate.

The most astonishing thing is that they had vegan pancakes and hot chocolate! I almost hugged the lady making the food because I was so excited. The food did not disappoint! The panckaes have a nice crispy outside and moist inside. Traditionally, Icelanders put raisins in their lummur but you can have them without it.

The other house, just steps away from the café, is where you can see how people lived between 1843 and 1943. The kitchen, pantry, and storage for certain animals are fascinating. The earthy floors, and walls of rock make the place look like it is in a time capsule. It can be quite dark in there so make sure to watch your step.

One area of the house is an actual apartment that people can rent to stay overnight. It’s small but very nice and you sleep in a loft area. I feel like that would be the ultimate way to experience being back in time, even though there are modern things in that section of the house.

While the charm of the place has been kept intact as much as possible, there have been some modern upgrades for the comfort of the family that stays here over the summer and guests. For instance, there is running water and modern toilets.

If you would like to visit Sænautasel, it is only available during the summer months from June to September. This place is such a hidden gem that the owners only have their website in Icelandic because that is who mainly comes to visit. I have a link to their site in the description. I recommend using Google Translate if you need help. Luckily, there are not a lot of words on the page and the owners speak English well.

If you are into fishing, the Sænaut lake is about 20 km from the turf houses and is said to have a lot of Char living in it. You can either camp nearby or stay at the turf houses. While I have never been fishing in Iceland, I am pretty sure you need a fishing card to do this activity.

These lovely turf houses and cafe are only an hour‘s drive from Egilsstaðir, which is the largest town in East Iceland. Most visitors drive through Egilsstaðir when visiting this part of the country.

To reach Sænatuasel, you can have to drive for a short distance on F907. For those that have listened to my Ultimate Guide for Renting a Car in Iceland episode, you know that you need a 4×4 vehicle that is insured for F-roads to drive on them. If you have not checked out that episode, I highly recommend that you do. I packed it with all the info you need to make an informed decision about which kind of car to rent for your adventure in Iceland.

Renting a car in Iceland can get quite expensive during the summer months because the demand jumps up. You can use my code Iceland10 when you book with Go Car Rental Iceland to save 10% on your full cost. Also, if the company is running any promotional % on their site that is higher than the 10% from my code, they will match whatever that that % is when you use my code. I recieve a small commission for those who inputs my code, so your usage of iceland10 helps to support All Things Iceland and the creation of episodes like this.

Sænautasel offers an untouched slice of Icelandic heritage. Whether you’re a history buff, a literary enthusiast, or simply in search of beauty and serenity, Sænautasel promises an experience like no other. If it fits into the time you have in Iceland, I hope you check it out.

One awesome random fact is that it’s said Halldór Laxness, Iceland’s only Nobel laureate was deeply inspired by the life and struggles of the people that lived at Sænautasel that this place inspired him when he wrote “Sjálfstætt fólk – Independent People”.

Sænautasel literally means a place to call home by a lake called Sænaut. It is said to be a huge monster that is sort of like a whale. It is said to be somewhat friendly. One funny story I read is that people used to ride on them back in the day during summertime. Maybe when you visit you might spot one.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

If you plan to visit Iceland in June, this information will help you to know what to expect when traveling during this month. That includes road conditions, what to wear/pack, what makes it worth it to visit during that month, some tips on driving in that time, top activities, and events that happen annually during this month.

Dr. Marysia

June in Iceland marks the beginning of summer, although the term “summer” can be a bit misleading for those from warmer climes. The average temperature ranges from 9°C to 15°C (48°F to 59°F), but it can occasionally reach 20°C (68°F). Coastal areas, especially in the North, can still feel chilly due to the cold sea breeze. Rain is possible, but June is generally one of the drier months.

One of the most magical aspects of Iceland in June is the phenomenon of the Midnight Sun. Around the summer solstice (June 21), the sun barely sets. The sky remains light throughout the night, providing a unique and ethereal experience for visitors.

June 1st –  20 hours and 6 minutes

June 15th– 21 hours and 2 minutes

June 30th – 20 hours and 54 minutes

Go Car Rental Iceland is a local Icelandic car rental company that has great customer service, a large variety of cars and very competitive prices. Use my code Iceland10 to save 10% off the entire cost of your rental car.

I personally use them for when I go on adventures, and I’m so glad to hear that many of my listeners and subscribers are also having a great experience with them. I mentioned in a previous episode that one of my listeners switched to Go Car Rental Iceland from one of the internationally known rental car companies here and she saved $400! That was for a rental during the summer when prices can sometimes double due to demand.

If you plan to use a campervan, use my code Iceland7 to save 7% and get two free duvets with your GO Campers van rental. Also, I have a great episode coming up soon about how to choose the right camper van for your travels in Iceland, so keep an eye out for that.

My Ultimate Packing Checklist is linked in the show notes and will provide you with everything you need to bring. I recommend following the summer list. Just know that it can be a little chilly during the evening in May, especially in the north, so you will need some layers.

The primary ring road (Route 1) that circles the country is typically clear and in good condition in June. Many of the highland roads, which are often closed during winter, begin to open in June, although some might remain inaccessible until July. It’s essential to check the current road conditions on the official Icelandic Road website (road.is and safetravel.is) before heading out. Always remember to drive cautiously, especially on gravel roads or unfamiliar terrains.

One thing to keep in mind when driving during summer is that Icelandic sheep are grazing freely in many parts of the country. They can cross the roads without notice, so please keep an eye out for them and slow down if you see them near the road.

If you want even more recommendations on amazing things to do, I have compiled over 200 awesome places, activities, accommodations and more in My Iceland Map. If you decide to get full access to it, you will also receive all of the pre-set itineraries I have made. Those itineraries include a 10-day epic Summer Ring Road Adventure, a 3-day South Coast Adventure, The Famous Golden Circle Route, and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day trip itinerary.

Additionally, if I make any updates to the map, such as new places, you will get those updates too. I am continuously adding new places. You get all of that for just $49. I launched my map last month and people have already been telling me how helpful it has been for them as they plan their adventure here. The link to grab my Iceland Map is in the show notes on my website for this episode or you can go to rexby.com/jewells/Iceland.

June is an enchanting time to visit Iceland. With long days, diverse activities, and relatively mild weather, it offers a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural events.

I moved to Iceland in June of 2016 and I started the All Things Iceland podcast in June of 2018. Also, my birthday is in June, so this is a big month for me in a lot of ways.

Júní – June

Remember to use my code iceland10 with Go Car Rental Iceland to save 10% on your full rental car cost, and iceland7 to save 7% on your camper van rental with Go Campers, plus two free duvets.

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Þakka þér fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Over the last 7 years of living in Iceland, I’ve had the pleasure of exploring and sharing about every region of this amazing country of fire and ice.

The adventures to remote hidden gems in the highlands, raw nature that has blown my mind, geothermal hot pools to relax in, and delicious food that excited my taste buds have given you a glimpse into what this country has to offer.

To make planning your adventure even easier, I have put together a map of over 200 of my favorite places, activities, accommodations, restaurants, and more for you to use.

There are itineraries, travel tips, the ability to book hour-long video trip planning calls with me, and personalized itineraries that I can make based on your preferences via this guide.

Here is the link to my latest Iceland trip planning tool.

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Some of you might have heard that we had another volcanic eruption that started last week. Well, to be fair it is a continuation of eruptions that have been happening the last couple of years on the Reykjanes Peninsula. We’ve now experienced three volcanic eruptions three years in a row. All of them are being labeled as “tourist” eruptions because they can be visited, and they pose no harm to important infrastructure or towns.

I plan to share a brief update about the eruption and what we know so far. If other significant changes happen, I will for sure publish more information.

Similar to the other eruptions in 2021 and 2022, we experienced many earthquakes before any lava was seen. There were somewhere around 10,000 earthquakes reported and the largest of those was on Sunday, July 9th, which was classified as an M5.2. It was felt across the country, which is incredible. I distinctly remember feeling it. I jumped out of bed and said “the eruption is coming!”

Well, the eruption started on July 10th at 4:40 PM not far from the previous ones in the last couple of years. It’s a fissure eruption and scientist have stated that these types of eruptions are normally most powerful at the beginning and then taper off before ending. However, no one knows how long this one will last.

Maybe it is just getting started or maybe it is soon to finish. I know many people hope for the first option, but I like to manage expectations. They are saying this eruption is much stronger than the other two so that is giving some people a glimmer of hope that it will continue for quite some time.

One fascinating thing about the location of this eruption is that it is in a flatter area. Granted, there is a lot of lava rock, moss, and rugged terrain but you don’t have to hike up steep inclines to get there. The catch though is that you do have to walk quite far.

Currently, it is a 20 km or 12.4 mile hike round trip from the designated parking lot to the volcano site. That does not include time at the site watching the eruption. You can expect to take between 3 to 4 hours roundtrip to walk there. You might be there an additional hour, or more, depending on how long you want to be there. Needless to say, it would be a long day of exploring. There are 4×4 roads in this area but only authorized vehicles are allowed to drive there now because of safety reasons.

It’s interesting to me that the amazing weather we’ve been having lately has played a role in the volcano site being potentially dangerous for visitors. We’ve had bright, sunny days with relatively warm temperatures for over a week and a half (sort of unheard of in Iceland), and due to that the moss near the eruption is very dry.

Authorities have been working around the clock to put out wildfires from the moss catching fire due to the hot lava. Unfavorable wind conditions resulted in heinous gases being pushed in the direction of the walking path and all the way to the parking lot.

People were inhaling the gases and not feeling well. Bringing a gas mask is a great idea but just know that it is best to go on a day where the wind is pushing the pollution away from you.

Due to the wildfires and people at the volcano site acting foolish by getting too close to molten hot lava, authorities closed the site for 4-days until the conditions were better. So, from July 13th until the 17th (which is the same day I am recording this episode) access to the volcano site was prohibited.

I did not go straight to the volcano when it erupted because I wanted to see what authorities had to say about the conditions. Also, it takes around 4 hours of walking to get there, and I’ve had other projects that I needed to work on. I still am not sure when I will walk there because of other obligations.

However, I did take a helicopter flight over the eruption today and it was phenomenal! If you are planning to walk to the volcano, please check safetravel.is before going to make sure the conditions are favorable for going. Do not step on any lava, even if the lava looks like it is completely solid. Also, make sure to pack layers, fluids, and food since it is quite a long trek.

For those with limited time, limited mobility, or just want to see the volcano from a different angle, I highly recommend a helicopter tour. I partnered with Volcano Heli for this 30 -40 minutes adventure and it blew my mind. The eruption is stunning from above.

I know helicopter tours have been selling out, so if you are interested in that option, I recommend booking in advance. The fun thing is that you get to see amazing views of Reykjavík and the Reykjanes Peninsula as you are checking out the volcanic eruption. I was estactic after getting off the flght would love to do another one.

Some airlines like Icelandair and Play Air are flying near the volcano so their passengers can see the eruption, which is quite nice.

This brings me to my last point before doing the random fact of the episode. There is no forecasted impact of the eruption on flights or nearby towns.

Well, maybe the gas pollution but not there is no fear of the lava flowing into a nearby town or over paved roads. Unlike some other eruptions in Iceland that have created lots of ash in the past, that is not a concern here.

I correctly predicted the date of the eruption on Threads three days before it happened.

Litli Hrútur is the name of the current volcanic eruption

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If you plan to visit Iceland in May, this information will help you to know what to expect when traveling during this month.

That includes road conditions, what to wear/pack, what makes it worth it to visit during that month, some tips on driving in that time, top activities, and events that happen annually during this month.

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The other is that if you’re interested in getting personalized trip planning advice from me, you can book me for a consultation via this link.

Iceland’s weather in May is typically mild, but the variability is something you should always prepare for. The average temperature ranges from 4-10°C (40-50°F). There’s a noticeable uptick in the weather around this time, as it transitions from the icy clutches of winter into the softer breezes of spring. Rain is always a possibility in Iceland, so you should expect a few showers during your visit.

While it doesn’t normally snow during May, we did have some hail showers last month.

One of the most notable features about Iceland in May is the rapid increase in daylight hours. The sun sets late and rises early, so expect almost 24-hour daylight, a phenomenon known as the ‘midnight sun’. This extended daylight offers more time for exploration and enjoying the stunning landscapes of Iceland.

May 1st –  16 hours and 50 minutes

May 15th – 18 hours and 23 minutes

May 31st –  20 hours

Given the unpredictability of the weather, layering is key when packing for Iceland in May. Start with thermal undergarments, then add a layer of warm clothes, such as a fleece jacket or a wool sweater. Make sure to pack waterproof outer layers, like a good-quality rain jacket and pants. Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots are also essential. Don’t forget gloves, a warm hat, and a scarf. On a sunny day, you might even need sunglasses and sunscreen.

My Ultimate Packing Checklist is linked in the show notes and will provide you with everything you need to bring. I recommend following the summer list. Just know that it can be a little chilly during the evening in May, especially in the north, so you will need some layers.

By May, most roads, including the famous Ring Road that circles the country, are usually clear of snow and ice, making it easier to get around. However, highland roads (F-roads) generally remain closed until late June.

It’s always a good idea to check the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration website for up-to-date information. Driving conditions are typically good in May, but always be cautious, as Icelandic weather can change quickly.

May is a great time to visit Iceland due to its extended daylight hours, relatively mild weather, and fewer tourists compared to the summer months. The flora begins to bloom, providing stunning backdrops for your photos. Moreover, many migratory birds, including puffins, arrive in Iceland in May, making it a great time for birdwatching.

During my first May in Iceland in 2017 it snowed off and on for a week. I was afraid that winter would never end. LOL

Maí – May

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Wow, it‘s amazing that I have been living in Iceland for seven years! Even though I know this is a decent amount of time, it feels like it i has flown by. So much has changed since I moved here in 2016, and I‘m sharing some of the major changes/transitions that have happened in my life this year.

June is a major month in my life. I was born in this month, I moved to Iceland during this month, and I started the All Things Iceland in June of 2018. The podcast was the start of all of this. When I started it I gave myself a year to be consistent with posting. Thankfully, all of that hard work paid off and I was receiving message from people saying how much they enjoyed the episodes.

I was delighted and surprised that people were listening! There is so much more I want to do with the podcast and I would love to hear the topics that you want to hear on the show. Feel free to send me an email at jewells(at)allthingsiceland(dot)com.

One major shift in my life over the last year was that Gunnar and I broke up. In Iceland, getting divorced takes a while to be finalized. After filing for separation, you have to wait six months before you can file the final paperwork for the divorce to be done.

Our divorce will be finalized this month as well. Seriously, June really does seem to be a big month in my life. It was not an easy decision to choose to do that. It certainly was not one that either of us took lightly. In the end it felt like the right decision. Being single in Iceland is foreign to me and this new chapter is one that is helping me to grow in many ways.

We had an apartment that we owned together and selling that was a major part of the breakup process. In 2021 we bought the place and had it completely renovated. Due to the renovations, we were not able to live in the apartment for six months!

I moved out of the apartment in February of 2023, which means that we only lived there for one year. I loved designing that apartment and it was a little bittersweet to let it go. However, it was best for us to sell it. Funny enough, the people who bought it are an American woman and an Icelandic man.

I was stunned and exhilirated when I was asked if I was interested to be featured in Geography of Bliss. It was such a pleasant surprise and I enjoyed every minute of it. Rainn Wilson was a lovely person to hang out with and the production team were awesome. I honestly couldn‘t have had a better experience.

My Icelandic has definitely improved leaps and bounds over the years. It is still not at the fluency I am aiming for and the good news is that it‘s getting there. Currently, I am doing Siggi‘s self-study course for 3 months. It is helping me to read more regularly, build my vocabulary, and undertsand more of the language on a higher level.

As I have been adjusting to my new life, I felt the need to work on my resilience. Part of that process has been taking Andri Iceland‘s limitless month long program. It helped me to push past some limiting beliefs I had, and to think outside of the box.

It‘s amazing to think that I have 205 episodes of the podcast. That is 41 episodes a year when I divide it by 5. I‘m proud of that and thank you to all of you that have listened over the years.

Sjö ára afmæli – 7 year anniversary

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