We often think about smell and fragrance in a vacuum; as a alternative form of self expression or beauty. But, scent is political. In this episode Sarah discusses Shivani Kapoor's writing on how Dalit autobiographies highlight smell and a critical experience that defines the caste system in India, and connect it to broader ideas of smelling "of your class". Don't worry, I of course chat about pretty smells too (perfume oils especially!)

Fragrances mentioned:

- Pear Inc/ JHAG

- Myth/Ellis Brooklyn

- 3 Fleurs, Le Cri, Vetiver Bourbon, Tabac Tabou/ Parfum d'Empire

- Egyptian Musk, Sandalwood/ Nemat

- O'Feminin/ M. Micallef

- Yara/ Lattafa

- Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere

Reading:

Shivani Kapoor: "Words that Smell: Caste and Odors in Hindi Dalit Autobiographies" in Aromas of Asia: Exchanges Histories, Threats. Edited by Hannah Gould & Gwyn McClelland

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Music & Sound Engineering: Jasem Jarrar

This week is all about comfort scents, and the ongoing search for a new hyperfixation: the soapy, bubbly, shampoo-y scents of your dreams (a sign of the times). I need to know: what's the squeaky, fruity floral concoction you find yourself back to now and then?

Fragrances mentioned:

Hydra Figure/ Miller Harris

Fascent/ I Fig you

No. 19 Poudre & No. 5 Eau Premeire/ Chanel

Sandalwood/ Nemat

Kimono/ d'Annam

Queen Nzinga/ Marissa Zappas

Porcelain Pulse/ Roan

Champaca/ Ormonde Jayne

Ghost in The Shell, You or Someone Like You / Etat Libre D'orange

Purple, Blue Pour Femme, Bright Crystal/ Versace

Pear Inc./ JHAG

Lazy Sunday Morning/ Maison Margiella

Sweet Pea/ Bath and Body Works

Myth/ Ellis Brooklyn

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Have something to share? Write to [email protected]

Music & Sound Engineering: Jasem Jarrar

Looking for a cardamom fragrance to fit your mood? Look no further, from the opulent to shape-shifting, Sarah shares the ultimate shortlist has a something for everyone, and then gets into the olfactive power of protest and memory that enables us to retain ties (even if complicated ones) to our places of origin.

Fragrances mentioned:

Trayee / Neela Vermeire Creations

Nordic Cedar / Maya Njie

Kyoto / Comme des Garçons

Moon milk/ Stora Skuggan

Tchai/ Hima Jomo

Jaipur chai/ Ineke Parfums

Otis & Me / Jazmin Saraï

Honorable mentions:

Night Flower / Eris Parfum

No. 7/ Enchanted Alchemy

Readings:

Lyrics: Fontaines D.C., Fairouz " El Kods Al Atika, القدس العتيقة"

Book: "Men in the Sun" Ghassan Kanafani

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Music & Sound Engineering: Jasem Jarrar (@jas3m.j)

This week's episode is a bit more relaxed and chatty as Sarah talks about a recent smell trip, an very impulsive buy, the continued search for the perfect cardamom fragrance, and fragrance recession indicators (not all facts, observations and vibes).

Fragrances/ products mentioned:

Neroli Body Oil/ Nuxe

Body Lotion in Black Rose & Oud/ Salt & Stone

The New Savant Candles (Androgyne was the favorite)

Amber/ Nemat

Nippon Kodo Incense Sticks (Musk, Jasmine, Green Tea, Lotus & Sandalwood)

Olivenol Body Cream/ Medipharma Cosmetics

Mure, Bergamote/ Outremer

Summer in Paro, Tchai/ Hima Jomo

Dandelion Butter/ Clue Perfumery

Moonmilk/ Stora Skuggan

Toor Toor/ Regime de Fleurs

Fleur d' Ete/ Bienaime

Golestan, L'Air du Desert Marocain, L'Air Des Alpes Suisses/ Andy Tauer

Matchbox Romance/ Binaurale

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Music & Sound Engineering: Jasem Jarrar

This week Sarah gets into reviews for fragrances from d'Annam, Chapel Factory, Aesop and more. Then from Indonesia we discuss Saki Tanada's research on how smell is associated with different states of being in Lombok, Indonesia.

Fragrances:

Tokyo Nights, Hinoki Meditation, Kimono/ d'Annam

Marrakech Intense/ Aesop

Holy Stick/ Chapel Factory

Ashoka/ Neela Vermeire Creations

Un Air d'Apogée/ Violet Parfum

Euphoria/ Calvin Klein

Gucci Guilty Intense Pour Femme/ Gucci

Work Cited:

Pregnancy, Childbirth, and the Smell of Vunerability in Lombok, Indonesia by Saki Tanada, in "Aromas of Asia: Exchanges, Histories, Threats" (2023)

Music & Sound Engineering: Jasem JarrarBe sure to comment, like and follow where you listen, and connect on Instagram: @btwnotes

This week Sarah discusses thoughts on Amer Perfume's Arabian Jasmine (Art & Olfaction award-winning), Perennial and Mandaroud before diving deep into the introduction of AI in the perfume industry, and its impact on the concept of craftsmanship (and Sarah shares her absolute no-nos for AI in perfume)

Perfumes mentioned:

Arabian Jasmine, Perennial, Mandaroud/ Amer Perfumes

Works cited:

Arabelle Sicardi for The Verge "How AI Infiltrated Perfume" June 24, 2025

I also suggest reading further on all the tech mentioned in this article and in the episode!

Music @ sound engineering: Jasem Jarrar @jas3m.j

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This week, Sarah gives a brief review of Trayee, an introductory scent from the house of Neela Vermeire Creations. Then we dive into Dora Goldsmith's work on constructed smellscapes in ancient Egypt, and muse on smells of today's Egypt. Chuck out your 1920s harem pants and bobs, because this is not the Egyptology you think it is!

Fragrances mentioned:

Trayee/ Neela Vermeire Creations

Works mentioned:

Goldsmith, Dora. "Smellscapes in ancient Egypt." The Routledge Handbook of the Senses in the Ancient Near East. Routledge, 2021. 636-662.

Hessler, Peter. The Buried: Life, Death and Revolution in Egypt. Profile Books, 2019.

Dana El Masri for Alabastron Journal, 2024

Sound Engineering & Music: Jasem Jarrar

This week's episode is an overhaul list of incense fragrances and wonderful recommendations. We also get into some musings on smellmaxxing, its positioning, and its connection to practices in the past. After you listen, i'm curious to know, why do you wear perfume? 

Fragrances mentioned:

Kyoto, Avignon, Ouarzazate, Floriental/ Comme des Garçons, Wazamba/ Parfum d'Empire, Princess/ Lanvin, Oak & Oak/ Scents of Wood, Indigo Smoke/ Arquiste, Copal de Terre/ Le Monde Gourmand, Etui Noir/ Miller Harris, Otis & Me/ Jazmin Sarai, Euphoria/ Calvin Klein, Purple Mantra/ Room 1015, Gucci Guilty pour femme intense/ Gucci, Reliq d'Amour, Rev d'Ossian/ Oriza Legrand, Feminite du Bois/ Serge Lutens, Olibanum/ Profumum Roma

Additional fragrances to try that were missed:

Mandala/ Masque Milano

Tucson/ Astier de Villatte

Works cited: 

New York Times, Smellmaxxing Explained: https://tinyurl.com/4u3fv6d5

Suzy Nightingale, "The Tiktok Boys" for The Scented Letter (Spring 2025)

 Alice du Parcq's Substack, "Why we must celebrate teen boy scent hounds": https://tinyurl.com/ydu2pxuv"

The Golden Peaches of Samarkand" by Edward Schafer

"On a Trail of Incense: Japan and Olfactory Thought" by Lorenzo Marinucci (chapter in "Aromas of Asia)

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Music & sound: Jasem Jarrar ⁠@jas3m.j

For this week, we get into a review of a lovely narcissus find and an interesting, impulsive shopping experience. For our fragrance cultural discussion we delve into fragrance practices and identity in Zanzibar as discussed in Rosabell Boswell's work from 2008: How fragrance practices shifted after the 1964 revolution, how it converged and diverged African and Arab ethic identity expression, and the tricky business of documenting "intangible" cultural heritage like fragrance.

Fragrances mentioned:
Mariya/ OmanLuxury

Narcisse Taiji, Neroli Hasbaya, Cédre Figalia/ Atelier Materi

Work discussed on podcast:
Scents of identity: Fragrance as heritage in Zanzibar by Rosabelle Boswell, Journal of Contemporary African Studies 26 (3), 295-311 (2008)

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Music & sound engineering: Jasem Jarrar @jas3m.j

This week is another discovery set deep dive! I chat about the Les Indémodables collection. Each offering presents an austere, well respected material traditionally used in perfumery, and takes an elegant yet playful approach. Yet, each playful take is grounded in a classical style of perfumery. Les Indémodables encapsulates the best of niche perfumery, emphasizing luxury and quality with each composition.

Discovery set (in order of appearance):

Fougere Emeraude

Oranger Sirocco

Oriental Velours

Chypre Azural

Escale en Haiti

Cuir de Chine

Escale en Indonesie

Iris Perle

Patchouli Nosiette

Musc des Sables

Rose de Jamal

Vanille Havane

Ambre Supreme

If you've tried the collection, tell me what your favorite is! If you haven't, which one intrigues you the most?

Thanks for listening in and be sure to follow Between the Notes on Instagram! @btwnnotes

Music & sound engineering: Jasem Jarrar @jas3m.j