Even in a region of striking scenery, the landscape of the Dalquest Desert Research Station, 60 miles southeast of Marfa, stands apart. It's home to what's been called “the Grand Canyon of the Big Bend.” Out of welded volcanic ash, wind and water have carved a richly colored labyrinth – the Devil's Graveyard.

The 3,000-acre property is owned by Midwestern State University, in Wichita Falls, Texas. It's a site for scientific research. Recently, an Alpine botanist made a surprising find here.

The Dalquest site is reminder of how initial impressions can mislead. Like much of the Big Bend, it appears harsh, even deadly. But in the yellow- and red-rock canyons, there are spring-fed po...