The Mindful Surfer

Ep 31 | Your greatest wave is yet to come...


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Episode 31 wraps up the first season of The Mindful Surfer Podcast.

Thanks to all those who have joined us on this amazing ride over this unbelievable and bonkers year.  Stay stoked gang and we will see you all fresh for season 2 in 2021.

As we wrap things up for 2020 we cover Progression, the rhythm of surf, whether or not barrel riding is ‘surfing’ and how to keep the gains flowing through micro improvements every day.

We chat Random acts of kindness, being stoked for other people and passing on a yew or two.  Tell the people you love why they are so wonderful and why you appreciate them while they are alive. Don’t wait until it is too late.

In previous episodes have spoken about surfing as Art,  you can’t do it wrong  but is it also dancing?

We look at the importance of Getting a surf coach if progression is your aim. Someone who can articulate the concepts of how you progress.  There are online tools for this now,  as well as wave parks that open up more avenues for progression.  As they have mentioned throughout the whole series don’t forget the power of on land movement, practice and functional fitness work.

Surfing is unique in that there is no feedback on how you are doing, you can buy all the same kit as the pros but no one tells you how and when to use it. Why don’t we do this as surfers as widely as other sporting communities?

Liam talks about prolonged sitting at work and how office legs and desk bum can be a blocker to surf progression.  The training starts way before the surf progression and how age does not have to mean inevitable decline.

Will breaks down how Barrel riding is different to surfing and how he hasn’t had the experience of barrels to ride them. The boys discuss what a broad church surfing is.

The show has explored many themes of the search for waves/happiness but ultimately Whatever you are looking for is looking for you and is always much closer than you think. As Priscila Guedes taught us. You don’t have to go chasing butterflies, if you look after and care for your garden the butterflies will come to you.

Dedicated to a truly wonderful, wise and mindful human. Mabel Morgan. 1925-2020.

Links from the show. 

Joe Rogan and Laird Hamilton. How to Stay Fit at any Age.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMqSmj-X4ls

Jamie O’Brien and Carissa Moore at Pipeline

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4BQJN7azsI

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The Mindful SurferBy Will Foster & Liam Morgan

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