The Mindful Surfer

Ep.29 | Surf Like No-One's Watching.


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Liam and Will discuss their recent trip to @thewave England's artificial Wave park.  They have to eat their own words about surfing like no one is watching, as the usual photo service misses the very day that boys visit. Leaving them to only experience how it felt, rather than how it all looked. 

There is talk of expectation, ego, having spectators and other surfers watching every wave you miss, make or wipe out.  They discuss how the controlled environment helped Liam deal with the steeper take offs on the Expert setting and look at how much progress can be made by surfers at these 'surf-gyms' that provide the same canvas to practice on over and over again. 

The boys discuss the importance of choosing the right board, especially for fresh water and also how looking like a surfer does not a surfer make! 

Liam is stoked with his new (second hand) Luke Short twinny and how a connection with a board can improve your surfing and your experience of it. 

Try things, make mistakes, stay curious and move on. 

Will is blown away by a recent Lakey Peterson @lakeypeterson clip where despite all her success she is still as stoked as ever living the attitude of gratitude. 

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The Mindful SurferBy Will Foster & Liam Morgan

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