On this episode of THE MODERN MEXICO PODCAST host Nathaniel Parish Flannery talks to agave spirits expert and author David Suro about Mexico’s booming mezcal and tequila industry.

Mezcal is an absolutely fascinating product. It connects some of the most isolated, rural, mountain communities in southern Mexico with consumers in the most sophisticated urban bars and restaurants in the world.

There are some parallels with single origin organic coffee in that respect but within the world of spirits, mezcal is pretty unique.

Whereas some premium spirits such as high end vodka have garnered attention largely through successful marketing mezcal is a product with an incredibly complex history and flavor profile.

It’s unique aromas and taste are derived from the flavors of the wild agaves that used to make it, from the soil, and from the wood used to roast the agaves in underground ovens.

Most mezcal is still made using traditional processes including crushing the agave with a horse-driven stone wheel called a tahona and letting it ferment in wooden barrels.

Many stills continue to be heated with firewood rather than modern technology.

And, the end result is an incredibly unique product that absolutely deserves to be considered as one of the most complex and sophisticated drinks on the planet.

Tequila, on the other hand, has modernized and mechanized and is now produced on an industrial scale in the state of Jalisco.

Mexico’s exports of mezcal and tequila have surged over the last ten years and both industries are now going through some growing pains.

When it comes to mezcal 93% or around 19 out of every 20 bottles is made by small craft distillers.

The production totals of mezcal are absolutely tiny in comparison to tequila.

Total, mezcal production in Mexico tallies up to about 2% of the annual output of tequila.

For every bottle of mezcal that Mexico makes, the country produces 49 bottles of tequila.

Mezcal and tequila production techniques are different but both industries face serious constraints such as problems securing a stable supply of agave.

Despite the industry's immense profitability many workers in Jalisco and Oaxaca are still underpaid.

Check out the full conversation to hear David Suro, one of the co-authors of a new book called AGAVE SPIRITS: THE PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE OF MEZCALS, share his perspective.

"Agave is not like grain or sugarcane or grapes where we every year we have new crops. In the case of mezcal a lot of the species of agave, they are plants that need 15, 20, 35 years to develop. But, the growth of [agave cultivation] in Oaxaca is not at the same pace of demand. So, we are now seeing a lot of species, especially wild species of agave used to produce mezcal, in danger of extinction. Rapid growth [caused] challenges we’ve never seen before," Suro explains.