Travels With Jim and Rita

Episode 57 - Navigating Ireland's West Coast


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The wild western coast of Ireland beckons with its dramatic cliffs, winding mountain roads, and villages where Gaelic still echoes through local pubs. Our adventure through this stunning landscape reveals both the tourist-filled hotspots and the authentic gems that make Ireland truly special.

Setting off from our base in Oranmore near Galway, we discover that sometimes the most celebrated destinations don't quite match expectations. Galway's Latin Quarter bustles with tourists but lacks the authentic charm we find in smaller towns. Meanwhile, the Cliffs of Moher deliver their promised drama—especially when viewed from the water—giving us a fresh perspective on these famous "Cliffs of Insanity" from The Princess Bride.

Nothing prepares us for the white-knuckle drive over Conor Pass on the Dingle Peninsula—a road so narrow that two-way traffic must negotiate with a rock wall on one side and a sheer drop on the other. Yet the panoramic views from the top make every tense moment worthwhile, revealing lake-dotted valleys and the expansive Dingle Bay beyond.

The true magic of western Ireland emerges in places like Kenmare, where we sit outside pubs surrounded by locals speaking Gaelic, and in Killarney National Park, where Muckross House and its magnificent grounds offer history and natural beauty without the crowds. We learn that Blarney Castle's famous stone might draw tourists, but it's the surrounding gardens that truly captivate.

Our most memorable discoveries often come unexpectedly—the massive St. Coleman's Cathedral in Cobh with its 300-foot spire, the remarkably preserved Charles Fort near Kinsale, and small seaside villages where authentic Irish life continues untouched by tourism's influence. These moments remind us that travel's greatest rewards often lie just beyond the well-trodden path.

Join us as we navigate Ireland's challenging roads, discover hidden treasures, and find that the heart of Irish culture beats strongest in its smallest towns. Whether you're planning your own Irish adventure or simply dreaming of emerald landscapes, our journey offers both practical insights and the inspiration to explore beyond the ordinary.

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Travels With Jim and RitaBy Jim Santos, travel writer and host of the International Living Podcast

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