Let the swells have their $900 fish whisker souffle. New York City’s true gift to the culinary arts is just fine for me. I’m talking hot dogs, the consummate Big Apple delight. From stockbroker to starving student, New Yorkers have a special fondness for the $2.50 tube steak, especially if it fueled their climb from down-and-out to doing OK.

Come along as this week’s Restaurant Rewind podcast slathers on the onion relish for a taste of what hot dogs have meant to New Yorkers, as strange as that role has sometimes been.

My apologies if you end up with mustard stains and the hint of a New York accent.