Was the legendary Orlov Diamond once the eye of a Hindu idol before becoming part of the Russian Crown Jewels? In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenis Sigkoudi unravel the extraordinary story of the 189-carat diamond tied to Mughal emperors, Catherine the Great, theft, romance, and one of history’s greatest gem mysteries.

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The Dresden Green Diamond is one of the rarest diamonds in the world and one of the most mysterious. Its vivid green colour looks almost unnatural… but it’s entirely real.

In this episode, we explore how this extraordinary gem gets its colour from natural radiation deep within the Earth, why that makes it so exceptionally rare, and how it became one of Europe’s most treasured jewels. From royal collections to scientific fascination, the Dresden Green has captivated experts and admirers for centuries.

Is it really too green to be true? Or is it proof that nature can outdo even the most ambitious jeweller?

This is part of our ongoing diamond series.

If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

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For generations, the antique jewellery trade has been built on discretion, reputation and knowledge passed quietly from one dealer to another.

But that world is changing.

In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew sits down with The Jewel Geek to explore what it means to develop an eye for antique jewellery in a more open, digital age.

From early experiences buying at auction to building a network of trusted dealers, Brinder shares how his taste has evolved and how a combination of instinct, study and building relationships has helped him build a strong reputation in his short time in the trade.

Along the way, they discuss the realities of the trade: overpaying, missing out, learning to recognise quality, and understanding what actually sells. They also reflect on the growing role of social media, the importance of educating new collectors, and why antique jewellery may be more relevant now than ever.

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In this episode of Gem Pursuit, we tell the extraordinary story of one of history’s greatest lost diamonds - the legendary Florentine.

A pale yellow diamond of almost 140 carats, the Florentine passed through some of Europe’s most powerful dynasties, from the Medici family to the Habsburg emperors, before disappearing in the chaos that followed the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

For more than a century, its fate remained one of the great unsolved mysteries in gem history. Was it stolen, recut, or lost forever?

Now, after over 100 years in the shadows, the Florentine has resurfaced - and its survival opens a new chapter in a story shaped by empire, exile, war and inheritance.

In this episode, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the stone’s disputed origins, its links to the Mughal world, its place in the Habsburg treasury, and the remarkable events that led to its rediscovery.

This is part three of our ongoing diamond series.

If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

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In the second part of our diamond series, we turn from science to history.

After exploring how diamonds form and how they are cut in Part I, this episode follows the extraordinary journey of the diamond through human history. From the ancient riverbeds of India to the great discoveries in Brazil and South Africa, we trace how diamonds moved across continents, empires and centuries.

Along the way we explore how diamond cutting evolved from simple polishing of natural crystals to increasingly sophisticated faceting techniques that transformed the stone’s beauty. From the earliest point cuts and table cuts to the rose cut, old mine cut and the beginnings of the modern brilliant, each development reflects changing technology, taste and the growing desire to unlock the diamond’s brilliance.

This is the story of how a rare natural curiosity became one of the most important gemstones in jewellery history.

In the next episode of this series, we’ll turn to one of the most mysterious diamonds ever known - the legendary Florentine.

If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen to podcasts, and if you have a moment please leave us a rating or review on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

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Diamonds form over billions of years, deep within the Earth's mantle under unimaginable pressure. But what makes them truly extraordinary isn’t only what nature creates - it’s also what human hands choose to do next.

In the first episode of our diamond series, we return to the stone we haven’t properly explored since the very early days of the podcast and ask a big question: where does nature end and craft begin?

We unpack how diamonds are formed, revisit the 4 Cs, and take a close look at the one element entirely controlled by people: cut. What does a cutter actually do? How do they decide what to sacrifice and what to preserve? And why can a great cut transform a cloudy pebble into something unforgettable?

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What is the most recognisable symbol in jewellery history? The heart.

In this Valentine’s special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the enduring story of the heart motif — a symbol that has carried secret messages, sealed romantic promises, and expressed devotion for centuries.

We begin in the ancient world, where the heart was believed to be the centre of the soul, and trace how medieval courtly love helped shape the heart into a romantic emblem. From early love tokens and poetic brooches to protective witch hearts and crowned double hearts, the symbol evolved into a powerful visual language of love, loyalty, and longing.

The episode also explores the Victorian era’s obsession with sentimental heart jewellery, from Queen Victoria’s personal charm bracelets to mourning lockets containing hair and portraits. Moving into the 20th century, we look at wartime sweetheart lockets and Elsa Peretti’s revolutionary Open Heart design, which transformed the motif into a modern design icon.

Finally, we turn to some of history’s most spectacular heart-shaped jewels, including Elizabeth Taylor’s Taj Mahal diamond, the legendary Blue Heart Diamond, and the technically astonishing Graff Venus — alongside iconic heart jewels worn by figures from Wallis Simpson to Lady Gaga.

From intimate love tokens to world-famous gemstones, the heart has remained jewellery’s most timeless symbol — and it’s not going anywhere any time soon.

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Andy Warhol is one of the most recognisable artists of the 20th century, but after his death in 1987, it was what he owned that truly shocked the art world. Hidden inside his New York townhouse was a vast, obsessive, and deeply personal collection: furniture, fine art, kitsch, cookie jars, watches… and an extraordinary cache of jewellery he never wore in public.

In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol the collector — from flea-market finds to Cartier, from Elsa Peretti for Tiffany to surrealist jewels by Salvador Dalí, modernist designs by Jean Després and the aquamarine parure once worn by Joan Crawford.

We unpack the legendary Sotheby’s auctions that followed his death, the records they broke, and the moment a second secret stash of jewels and watches was discovered hidden in false-bottom drawers. A story of taste, obsession, secrecy, and the quiet extravagance behind one of art’s loudest icons.

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As the year turns, Matthew takes stock. In this New Year episode, he reflects on 2025 through the lens of a year spent travelling, learning, and paying close attention — from attending international fairs and events, to being nominated for and attending the TikTok Awards, and being elected to the Company of Goldsmiths in Dublin.

The conversation then widens to eight years in business at the shop, looking at what has genuinely changed in the jewellery world over that time — from the growing role of social media and self-education, to shifting ideas of expertise and authority. Matthew considers the rise of AI and digital tools in identifying antiques and reproductions, and where human knowledge, judgement, and experience still matter most.

Finally, he looks ahead to 2026, sharing thoughts on the metals, stones, styles, and movements that feel increasingly significant, as well as the fairs and moments worth watching in the year to come.

A considered reflection on jewellery, experience, and perspective — and on how the industry continues to evolve, often in unexpected ways.www.courtville.ie

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In this festive special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew and Fenia answer your brilliant listener questions in a cosy, end-of-year Ask Us Anything special.

From spotting the subtle clues that date antique jewellery, to underrated gemstones, lost craft techniques, emotional motifs, and even the idea of cursed pieces, this episode is a wide-ranging chat for anyone who loves jewellery history and storytelling.

✨ Questions covered include:

• How do you really spot the characteristics of different jewellery eras?

• What gemstones deserve more love (and why does peridot divide opinion)?

• Old-cut diamonds you don’t see used today

• Can jewellery be cursed — and what should you do if it is?

• The most popular antique engagement ring settings

• Identifying yellow gemstones in antique rings

• Lost art forms and skills antique jewellers mastered

• Motifs with the deepest emotional power — then and now

• Paste jewellery and how it was historically worn

• How to spot gold plating versus solid gold (without testing)

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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck