In this festive special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew and Fenia answer your brilliant listener questions in a cosy, end-of-year Ask Us Anything special.

From spotting the subtle clues that date antique jewellery, to underrated gemstones, lost craft techniques, emotional motifs, and even the idea of cursed pieces, this episode is a wide-ranging chat for anyone who loves jewellery history and storytelling.

✨ Questions covered include:

• How do you really spot the characteristics of different jewellery eras?

• What gemstones deserve more love (and why does peridot divide opinion)?

• Old-cut diamonds you don’t see used today

• Can jewellery be cursed — and what should you do if it is?

• The most popular antique engagement ring settings

• Identifying yellow gemstones in antique rings

• Lost art forms and skills antique jewellers mastered

• Motifs with the deepest emotional power — then and now

• Paste jewellery and how it was historically worn

• How to spot gold plating versus solid gold (without testing)

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Jane Morris was a muse of the Pre-Raphaelites, a central figure in the early Arts & Crafts movement and the quietly powerful presence at the heart of an influential artistic circle.

In this episode, Matthew and Fenia explore the story behind Rossetti’s The Blue Silk Dress, focusing on the jewellery Jane wears and the symbolism carried within the portrait.

Drawing only on what is known from surviving records, letters and the painting itself, we trace Jane’s path from Oxford to her role within the Morris household and the artistic world that formed around it. The bracelet, the brooch, the rich textiles and embroidery — each reflects the ideals that would shape both the Pre-Raphaelite and Arts & Crafts movements.

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In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol’s silkscreen print portrait of Caroline of Monaco, created for Vogue in the early 1980s. We discuss the bold colours, big hair, bare-back pose, and the striking sapphire-and-diamond jewels that define the portrait’s 1980s style. We also look at the pop art movement, celebrity culture, and Caroline’s reputation as the “rebel princess”.

Beyond the portrait, we dive into two extraordinary pieces connected to Caroline: a Belle Époque reed stomacher symbolising resilience, and a 1910 platinum and blue-enamel Valkyrie-style headpiece with detachable wings. The conversation highlights her creative, versatile approach to jewellery and the multifaceted personality reflected in her portraits and pieces.

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In the latest episode of our Jewellery in Paintings series Matthew is joined by Courtville historian Fenia Sigkoudi to explore The Drake Jewel - a magnificent Renaissance pendant that intertwines art, politics and piracy!

Once gifted by Queen Elizabeth I to Sir Francis Drake, the jewel tells an extraordinary story of ambition, power and symbolism.

Matthew and Fenia trace how this locket became a statement of status, propaganda and personal connection between monarch and privateer. From its intricate cameo to its hidden “mask of youth” portrait, this episode uncovers the legacy of one of England’s most storied treasures.

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In this special episode of Gem Pursuit, we turn from the past to the present — and to one of the most daring jewellery thefts in recent memory.

In October 2025, eight pieces of the French Crown Jewels were stolen in broad daylight from the Louvre’s Galerie d’Apollon. Valued at €88 million, the missing treasures include the tiara of Empress Eugénie and the emeralds of Empress Marie Louise — jewels once worn at the height of imperial splendour, now vanished without a trace.

Matthew unpacks what happened, how the heist unfolded, and the remarkable stories behind each stolen piece. Were the thieves experts, opportunists, or just reckless? And could these legendary jewels one day resurface — as they have so many times before in history?

Watch this episode on YouTube and follow @gempursuitpod on Instagram for more stories from the world of antique jewellery.

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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck.

In this brand new series of Gem Pursuit, we step into the world of fine art to uncover the jewels hidden on canvas. Jewellery in Paintings explores how artists captured the sparkle, symbolism, and status of gems throughout history.

We begin with one of the most iconic images in Western art: Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Often called the “Mona Lisa of the North,” this enigmatic portrait has fascinated viewers for centuries. But what about the jewel itself? In this episode, we explore the mystery of the pearl, what it reveals about 17th-century Dutch society, and why such a simple adornment continues to shine as a timeless ideal of beauty.

Whether you’re standing in front of the painting in The Hague or simply picturing it in your mind, this episode offers a sparkling new perspective on an old master.

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Matthew and Alyce welcome back renowned antique jewellery specialist Michael Singer, Director of Acquisitions at Windsor, New York.

Michael shares stories of some remarkable adventures from his decades in the trade including trading a 15th-century manuscript for a Kashmir sapphire, finding a one-of-a-kind Tiffany necklace with ties to the French royal family and bending the rules of an auction...for love!

Michael also reflects on the lost buzz of New York’s 47th Street, the importance of trusting your instincts, the influence of his father on his career and also shares numerous insider tips such as which antique jewellery he thinks is the most undervalued collectible in America today.

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We are delighted to be back from our summer mini-hiatus and have been busy working away on our exciting upcoming podcast series. We'll say no more about that for now....

In the meantime, something a little bit different - a solo Matthew episode, recorded at the Couture Show in Las Vegas back in May of this year. Courtville was exhibiting at the Antique Jewellery and Watch Show down the hall and were asked to give a talk at one of their educational events.

Matthew spoke to a live audience of jewellery salespeople but these are insights that will be just as relevant for people who are interested and curious about the history of jewellery design.

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For our 100th episode of Gem Pursuit, we’re throwing it back to one of your Firm Favourites — the legendary house of Lalique. This special episode marks not just a podcast milestone, but also the 100-year anniversary of the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs — the defining moment of the Art Deco era, and a showcase for Lalique’s visionary designs.

We revisit the artistry, innovation, and sheer drama of René Lalique’s work, from his pioneering use of materials to the way he blurred the boundaries between fine art and fine jewellery.

And to celebrate 100 episodes together, we’re playing a one-off game: The Jewel-y-weds Game — where Alyce and Matthew test how well they really know each other after a hundred episodes of sparkling stories, tricky trivia, and heated debates.

Thank you for joining us on our Gem Pursuit. Here’s to the next hundred!

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In this special series of Gem Pursuit, we put a spotlight on some of the most important Cartier pieces of the 20th century, currently on display at the V&A museum in London.

In each episode, we take a closer look at a different extraordinary piece, uncovering its story, design, and place in jewellery history.

This is your audio guide to the Opal Tiara, once worn by Mary Alice Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. Set with luminous opals and shimmering diamonds, this ethereal tiara captures a moment when Cartier reimagined regal tradition with a fresh, modern elegance. In this episode, we explore the design that crowned a duchess and the craftsmanship that makes it timeless.

This item can currently be admired up close in the Tiara Room at the V&A exhibition in London - the final gallery of the exhibition.

If you can't make it to the exhibit, check out the V&A website and view the pieces for yourself.

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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck