Hardcore Surf History

It would be impossible to overstate the legend of Michael Peterson in the annals of Australian surfing. 1976 World Champ, Peter Townend, described him as: “Miki Dora, James Dean and Marlon Brando, all rolled into one.” At the time, he was regarded by many as the best surfer that had ever lived.

One of the most iconic images in surfing history is of Michael Peterson at Kirra in 1971 laying his board on rail in his iconic red trunks. The shot became the classic film poster for Morning of the Earth and was used as the cover of Tracks Magazine in February 1972. His Iconic turn consolidated his reputation as the fastest man to ever ride a surfboard. The Still image of this turn would go on to change the way surfers saw riding waves and would inspire infinite versions of it, generation after generation. 

In this special episode of Hardcore Surf History, host Tyler Breuer discusses the legendary Australian surfer Michael Peterson (MP) and the lasting impact of his iconic turn at Kira in 1971. Peterson's image became a hallmark in the surfing world, setting a standard for wave riding. To honor him, photographers Simon 'Shagga' Saffigna and Daniel Carmichael created the 'MP Classic Cutback Competition,' a global contest on Instagram where surfers compete to execute the best version of Peterson's famous turn. Esteemed judges include Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Dean Morrison, Steph Gilmore, Tom Curren, and Mark Occhilupo. The competition runs from June to September 24th, with videos tagged #MPCCC24 and following @only_one_MP. The episode features in-depth discussions with Simon ‘Shagga’ Saffigna and Daniel Carmichael about Peterson's legacy, the competition's origins, entry details, judging criteria, and its impact on the surfing community.

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On this episode, Was surfing really better way back when? We explore the pros and cons of being a surfer today. We ask, Is our perception of the past a cognitive bias? Or was it really that much better? And did waves pump that much harder. Plus, Jamie and Tyler see how their past experiences stack up against each other with another round of Stump my Bro.

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On this episode of Hardcore Surf History Bonus Section, Tyler goes full on surf nerd with the legendary Matt George. They discuss his new book 'In Deep' and get the real story behind behind 'In Gods Hands', his win at the Mr. Hot Buns Competition at the Allentown Wave Pool competition and reflect on how the media landscape has changed. This is a not to be missed episode!

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On this episode, we tackle the essential question: What is Style and why does it matter? We ask What makes a surfer stylish? Where did we get our notions of style from? Who has it? Who doesn't? and Why does it mean so much to us? We wade our way into the fraught and subjective topic on a matter of style. And of course… The Breuer Brothers try to out-vogue each other with Stump My Bro.

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On today's episode we look in the mirror and take a long, hard, sobering look at the image of surfing. How important is surfing's image? Does it shape surfing's culture? Does it affect who takes up the sport? Does it impact on the actual experience itself? Do these questions even matter? Then after we stare long enough at ourselves, Jamie and Tyler have a staring contest and try to Stump My Bro.

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At This year's Rip Curl Bells Beach Easter Classic's 60th Anniversary, Tom Curren and Mark Occhilupo–two of surfing's most influential characters and rivals–competed in a special Heritage Heat. The Curren/Occy Rivalry is stuff of legends. Many middle aged men get weak in the knees just mentioning the two. But.. Why? Why do we care so much about this rivalry? What is its importance to pro surfing? Who are these two surfers that captured our imaginations and have inspired generations of surfers? We dive in and give context to surf history.

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On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we dive into our Houses of the Holy: The Surf Shop. What have they meant to surfers over the years? How have they shaped surf culture? The history of surf retail and how they have evolved over time. Plus another round of "Stump my Bro."

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For over ten years, spanning the 70's decade and into the 80's, the global misadventures of Kevin Knaughton and Craig Peterson appeared in amusing, you-are-there detail in Surfer Magazine. Their stories, authentic accounts of dirtbag travel with surfboards, inspired a generation of readers to get out there and see the world through a surfer's eye. In this episode we talk to the Craig Peterson about his past travel exploits and the philosophy behind traveling with a surfer's eye.

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On this episode, we explore the reasons for surf travel and the many adventures and tales that have been told through the years. We discuss the pioneers and the moral questions that surf travel brings with it and when would have been the golden era of surf exploration? And… we've gone to the end of the earth to find a question that would Stump My Bro.

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On this episode, Tyler had the incredible opportunity to talk to the legendary filmmaker, Greg MacGillivray. Business partner Jim Freeman, MacGillivray produced a series of films from the mid-'60s to the early '70s that set the standard for technical excellence. Their final surf film Five Summer Stories was deemed as one of the greatest surf films of all time. It's an in depth deep dive into the career and life of one of surfing's greatest filmmakers.

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