Americans don’t like fruit cake.

This issue comes up every December when Sari, having stolen the job from me, sets about making the family Christmas cake. It is a divine confection - currants, sultanas, cherries, candied peel and almonds, liberally presoaked in whiskey and then folded in with flour, eggs, butter and spices and baked for hours at a low temperature. The scent in the kitchen is intoxicating but temporary as the cake, when cooled, is encased first in almond icing and then in royal icing. It weighs in at a hefty eight pounds and tastes magnificent when I can no longer restrain myself on Christmas Eve or Christmas Morning.