On this episode of The LA Food Podcast, Luca sits down with Chef Jon Yao and Ryan Bailey (Co-owner, DOO & Wine Director) of Kato, one of Los Angeles’s most acclaimed and ambitious restaurants. The conversation traces Kato’s evolution from its pre-Michelin West LA strip-mall era to its Arts District rebirth — unpacking how Jon and Ryan built a fine-dining institution that balances Taiwanese & SGV roots, Western technique, fermentation, hearth cooking, and one of the most forward-thinking beverage and non-alcoholic programs in the country.

We talk about the moment before Ryan joined in 2018, how their partnership transformed the restaurant’s trajectory, the decision to relocate to Row DTLA, the philosophy behind fermentation and “SGV food,” why the hearth is used with restraint, how the NA program went beyond trend to become identity, and what it means to operate a restaurant with one eye on legislation, labor, and rising costs.

We also get real about external validation — from Michelin stars to LA Times #1 rankings to World’s 50 Best “One to Watch” — and whether Kato is still pushing toward the “French Laundry” tier of long-term cultural significance in Los Angeles.

If you love LA dining, fine dining, Taiwanese cuisine, SGV food culture, fermentation, hospitality, Michelin, or restaurants building for the future, this conversation is for you.

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Keywords: Kato LA, Jon Yao, Ryan Bailey, Taiwanese food LA, SGV food, Michelin LA, World’s 50 Best, fermentation, non-alcoholic pairings, Arts District restaurants, fine dining Los Angeles, LA restaurant podcast, LA food scene, hospitality, wine programs LA