On the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi, international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.

This week, we’re taking a look at the skyrocketing price of gold, the effect it has on jewelry brands and what it indicates about the health of the global economy. We also discuss an investigation into the labor practices of the Italian luxury brand Tod’s, which is the latest of several luxury brands to come under official scrutiny for the conditions in its workshops.

And in the second half of the episode, we discuss the slate of big debuts at this season’s Fashion Month. Across New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, over a dozen brands debuted collections from new creative directors.

We focus on six big debuts: Demna at Gucci, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe. For each one, we give them a grade based on the clothes, the spectacle of the show, the consistency with the brand and its ethos, the reception, and the expected business impact on the brand as a whole.

At the end of the episode, we tally up all our scores and see which debuts had the biggest impact and which ones left something to be desired.