December 9, 2019, 12:30pm: Ise-ji north-south, day 7. Final day. Flat leading out of Kumano City. Coastal walking. Leaden winter skies all heavy with moisture — thankfully none of it falling down. A bench by the ocean, rotten boards, falling apart. Fifteen minutes of listening to the ocean waves rolling down the Kii Penninsula towards Shingu, the final destination.