Smart Creation

Like many of his fellows who had a successful career in the fashion industry, Ifeanyi Okwuadi also did his class at Savile Row. The 28 year old fashion designer based in London indeed learned and understood how to make a garment, and by definition, an impeccable one. If quality is his main focus, it’s certainly for him a way to create a piece that sustains through time. 

He envisioned his collection through the artisanal gesture and that’s probably what made him stand out of the 36th Hyères Fashion Festival. Winner of the Great Prize in 2021, the menswear designer took into account everything that makes sense to him such as sourcing the right fabrics, using great craftsmanship, but also by including his remarkable tailor skills.

In today’s Smart Creation episode, we talked with Ifeanyi about locality, ambition and sustainability from a design perspective.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

0:55 : Ifeanyi presents himself

3:10 : His definition to sustainable fashion

4:15: What was his project for the Hyères Festival?

7:50 : What was the main question regarding sustainability in his project?

9:40 : What’s its starting creative point ?

10:55 : What did he learn in terms of sustainability?

12:50 : What makes a good garment

13:45 : What did he learn at Margaret Howell ?

15:25: How can we bring back this idea that a good garment costs money?

18:45 : Where does he want to bring his project ?

20:15 : What will be his most important criteria as a member of the Hyères jury?

21:45 : How can the fashion industry accelerate its revolution?

22:55 : What does he advise to young designers?

24:16 : What does he want to close the door to in our industry?

24:35 : What does he look at to get inspired?

24:50 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought? 

25:05: Who would he like to listen to in this podcast?

KEY LEARNINGS

 «It’s really important for me to promote what we have, specifically in Britain like the craftsmanship, the skills and the labourers.»

«In a quality garment you can see the tailor's construction work, the needlework or everything that is involved in the making.»

«It’s all about the quality of the garment.»

«You can learn from the past, but don’t take away the bits that have gone wrong or failed and work on those things.»

About Ifeanyi Okwuadi & other references

Ifeanyi Okwuadi: http://ifeanyiokwuadi.com

@ifeanyiokwuadi: https://www.instagram.com/ifeanyiokwuadi/ 

36th edition of Hyères Fashion Festival: https://villanoailles.com/festivals/36e-festival-international-de-mode-de-photographie-et-daccessoires-de-mode-hyeres 

Margaret Howell: http://margarethowell.fr 

Fashion Revolution: https://www.fashionrevolution.org 

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Did you know that chemistry plays a major role in the sustainable transition? Today, Smart Creation invites Alberto De Conti, the Head of marketing and fashion division at Rudolf Group. As the leading conscious chemical partner for the global textile, Rudolf Group aims to provide innovative products in a responsible way. 

Alberto identifies the challenges and also the solutions regarding the current state of the textile industry. If the lack of materials is for sure something we need to pay attention to, saving resources by optimizing processes and finding alternatives to current practices are the leads to follow. 

Adding to that, the recycling issue of any material. Some need to get rid of initial chemicals, others are simply not the easiest to recycle, but that’s what Rudolf is here for: think about process and develop new practices compatible with the current stakes. 

In this episode, Alberto also gives us a highlight on chemical denim process alternatives, and his thoughts about democratized fashion.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

0:58 : Alberto presents herself

2:48 : What’s Rudolf’s business and Alberto’s role in it?

6:25 : What kind of chemistries do they provide?

9:00 : What’s his definition of responsible fashion?

10:58 : His good practices to make sustainability attractive 

14:28 : What is the role of chemistry in the sustainable revolution?

17:15 : The biggest challenges to reach a very low impact

20:31 : What kind of finishing is done on denim?

23:20: How can the fashion industry accelerate its revolution?

26:00 : Where are the limits of greenwashing?

28:25 : What does he want to close the door to in our industry?

28:40 : What does he look at to get inspired?

29:28 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought? 

29:45 : Who would he like to listen to in this podcast?

KEY LEARNINGS

 «Everything is chemistry, so the question should be: what kind of chemistry should we adopt ?»

«Chemistry can be eco-friendly and it must be.»

«One of the most advanced and progressive frontiers of textile chemistry is the transformation of biomass into substances that can be further used.»

«I believe in the enthusiasm, drive, and creativity of youth.»

ABOUT Rudolf Group

Rudolf Group : https://www.rudolf.de 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

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Pour les 20 ans du salon Made in France de Première Vision, Smart Creation s’intéresse aux enjeux économiques pour une mode durable et désirable avec Sylvie Chailloux, dirigeante de Textile du Maine et présidente de l’Union Française des Industries de la Mode et de l’Habillement. 

L’UFIMH est une organisation professionnelle nationale représentant les métiers de l’habillement. Sylvie Chailloux souhaite engager à travers son rôle de présidente un réel changement des mentalités au sein du secteur textile. Car pour elle, tous les acteurs ont un pouvoir d’action sur la mode responsable : designers, acheteurs, fabricants, marques et consommateurs, cet épisode vous concerne !

La réindustrialisation est le point majeur ayant un impact sur le marché du travail et la consommation puisque aujourd’hui, la fabrication française représente 450 entreprises et 11 000 emplois en France.  Convaincue que le Made in France ne coûte pas plus cher, il serait en plus un moyen de redonner du sens à l’achat et de la valeur au produit. Réindustrialiser, investir et innover en s’accompagnant des avancées technologiques, voilà ce qui valorisera de nouveau la filière textile en France.

Dans cet épisode, Sylvie nous partage ses convictions sur la relocalisation, les chiffres clés du Made in France et des exemples de systèmes de production alternatifs basés sur les données.

SE RETROUVER DANS L’ÉPISODE

0:55 : Sylvie se présente

3:05 : Pourquoi elle a entrepris aussi jeune dans ce secteur ?

4:10 : Les 5 grands chantiers

5:10 : L’activité de Textile du Maine

6:30 : L’UFIMH

8:00 : Les enjeux

9:10 : Sa définition de la mode responsable

10:15 : Les actions de l’UFIMH

11:45 : Fabriquer en France est-il plus responsable ?

17:45 : Réindustrialiser la France, le prochain défi ?

26:33 : Le changement d’état d’esprit auprès des acteurs du secteur

28:10 : Comment faire consommer moins mais mieux ?

31:40 : Comment rendre attractif ce métier ?

36:18 : La fabrication à la demande

36:28 : Exemples d’innovation

40:00 : Pourquoi Sylvie est optimiste ?

41:15 : Ses conseils pour les jeunes entrepreneur.e.s

42:25 : À quoi elle veut mettre un terme dans l’industrie ?

42:48 : Ce qu’elle regarde pour s’inspirer 

43:28 : Le coût de demain

44:27 : Son dernier achat

45:10 : Qui elle souhaiterait entendre sur ce podcast ?

KEY LEARNINGS

« Le Made in France n'est pas si cher, mais nos acheteurs ne sont pas prêts. Aujourd’hui, ils sont rémunérés sur le principe suivant : plus ils achètent bas, mieux ils sont rémunérés. Tant que les dirigeants des entreprises ne réformeront pas leur fonctionnement interne, on aura du mal. »

« Le fait d’être cheffe d’entreprise me permet de définir une stratégie et de la défendre pour continuer à avancer chaque jour. »

« Si chaque français consommait 80g de textile français, soit l’équivalent d’une paire de chaussettes, cela générerait 4 000 emplois. »

« L’industrie, c’est investir, former et embaucher. »

Pour en savoir plus sur l’UFIMH :

https://www.lamodefrancaise.org

Textile du Maine : https://www.textile-du-maine.com 

Salon Made in France, Première Vision le 30 et 31 Mars 

https://madeinfrance.premierevision.com/fr/edition-mars-22/? 

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#40 Livia Firth, Co-founder and Creative Director of Eco-Age

What has been your turning point that made you change your vision of sustainability ? For Livia Firth, it was in 2008 when she went to Bangladesh and saw the backside of fashion. In the meantime, she co-founded Eco-Age, a creative agency that integrates both environmental and social justice. Working along with brands, NGO’s, governments and stakeholders at large, the agency is defining strategies that drive inner changes. Livia is shaping new ways to have a positive and significant impact within the supply chain, through the right material choices with labeling and honest communication avoiding greenwashing. She is convinced that scientific data is a necessary knowledge to take into account for the fashion industry. From a maker and consumer perspective, she’s aiming to redefine the  production as well as the consumption systems by asking the right questions. 

In this episode, Livia is giving many solutions that encourage tangible action towards a more sustainable industry driven by innovation, creativity and activism. 

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

0:55 : Livia presents herself

2:10 : How does she define herself ?

4:00 : The experience that changed her vision

7:00 : Her definition of sustainable fashion

12:30 : What should we do to make fashion sustainable ?

14:30 : Where should the pressure come from ?

17:55 : How do you make sustainability a bit more attractive ?

20:55 : ‘Make the label count’ initiative

23:15 : When will it be implemented 

24:30 : What are the most promising materials today ?

28:50 : What’s her opinion on leather ?

33:25 : How does she make the right choice of certifications 

40:00 : What is ecoverse ?

44:40 : Is she optimistic about the future ?

47:25 : What does she want to close the door to in our industry ?

47:35 : What does she look at to get inspired ?

47:50 : What is the last piece of clothes she bought ? 

48:23 : Who would she like to listen to in this podcast ?

KEY LEARNINGS

 «We need to have science targets which we don’t have in the fashion industry.»

«We live in a world where businesses are so much more powerful than governments.»

«We produce too much, we throw too much. The number one issue today is volume and we need to think about slowing down and decreasing.»

«If you look around you there are so many young leaders who are not even talking about sustainability anymore, they are just doing it. They have the solution and they know exactly what to do.»

ABOUT Eco-Age

Eco Age : https://eco-age.com/agency/ 

@ecoage : https://www.instagram.com/ecoage/ 

Make the label count : https://www.makethelabelcount.org/

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This week we’re meeting with Christine Goulay, she is global director at Pangaia. Working both on direct to consumer and B2B markets, the company is mainly focused on technologies and innovation.They design products made of bio-sourced and organic materials that can also be biodegradable. As research is at the core of their process, they take advantage of those material improvements to work hand in hand with other companies and share a common knowledge base in the industry. From the development of bio fibers using regenerative agriculture, to dies and treatments, they build key solutions to suppliers and brands to adapt more efficiently.

Christine has worked for a while at Kering sustainability department and she then directed her career on material science technology. She has aligned Pangaia’s vision into a more shared and realistic way of approaching responsibility within the fashion industry.

Discover what guides her to act for change in this episode.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

1:05 : Christine presents herself

4:15 : Why did she decide to join Pangaia

9:40 : What does sustainable fashion mean ?

12:25 : What is regenerative agriculture ?

15:00 : The rules for sourcing materials

16:05 : What’s her favorite fiber ?

19:50 : What makes her company stand out ?

22:50 : The biggest challenges in the upcoming month

26:00 : The price issue regarding sourcing 

27:10 : What would she advise to a young designer ?

29:20 : Other actions they do at Pangaia

31:40 : What does Christine want to close the door to in our industry ? 

30::50 : What will she present at Premiere Vision 

32:15 : What does he look out to get inspired ? 

33:30 : What is the last piece of clothes she bought ? 

34:40 : Who would he like to listen to in this podcast ?

KEY LEARNINGS

 « The point is to bring those exciting low impact technologies to the market and serve as a proofpoint that we can make this transition. »

« Because all of this hard work has been done, hopefully it will be easier to adopt the technologies. »

« If we are raising things in the correct way it connexionaly have a beneficial impact in that ecosystem. »

« It is through partnering suppliers with brands and experts that we are going to move more quickly. »

ABOUT PANGAIA

Pangaia : https://thepangaia.com

Pangaia B2B : ​​https://thepangaia.com/pages/b2b-enquiries 

To contact Christine : [email protected]

REFERENCES

Kintra : https://www.kintrafibers.com

CFDA : https://cfda.com

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we’re meeting with Liisa Kelo, Value Chain Development Manager at FSC. The Forest Stewardship Council mission is to promote environmentally sound, socially beneficial and economically prosperous management of the world's forests. Its vision is that we can meet our current needs for forest products without compromising the health of the world’s forests for future generations.

In this episode Liisa takes us into the world of wood and fashion. Listening to this episode will allow you to better understand the action of FSC, the textiles of cellulose origin and the stakes around wood in the world. 

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

1:05 : Liisa presents herself

2:34 : Why she decided to dedicate her life to sustainability 

3:14 : Her definition of sustainable fashion

05:21 : What is her job ? 

07:09 : What is FSC? Who is it for? What is it for? How do you get it? 

11:24 : How much does it cost ? How long does it last? 

12:16 : What does it bring? What is at stake around wood ?

15:23 : What is the link between fashion and FSC ? 

17:00 : What is Viscose, Lyocell, Modal, Acetate

19:50 : To what extend those fibers are really sustainables ? 

21:40 : The Fashion Forever Green Pack

25:27 : How can the fashion industry accelerate its sustainable revolution ? 

28:35 : What makes her feel optimistic ? And what are the biggest challenges in the coming years? 

31:33 : Quick rapid fire questions section       

KEY LEARNINGS

 « Sustainable fashion is fashion that is sourced and produced responsibly, both environmentally and socially, but it's also renewable and circular.  And essentially, it's fashion that has a positive social, environmental and economic impact.  »

 « What we want to do at FSC is to strive for the best results for the forest. »

« We're encountering a major problem, it’s that at least half of cellulosic fiber is still not certified. So we don't really know where they're coming from. That could be coming from areas from deforestation or human rights violations. And so leaving these forests unprotected and vulnerable is a major issue. »

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we’re meeting with Munir Ahmed, the director and owner of M&J Group and Genesis Fashion Ltd. It all started as a family business decades ago, now it has become one of the leading manufacturing group of Bangladesh. Mainly focused on denim and dyed products, the group has developed defined technologies through R&D to improve the quality of their garments.

However, you are probably asking yourself how this scale of company in this country known for its past tragic events can fit in a sustainable logic ? That’s basically why Munir Ahmed came to discuss and share with us the reality of the business. From technology improvements, process measurements, the use of data, to social certifications, he can surely demonstrate what is in the making. He is one of those who’s convinced that less is better, and as a big player in the fashion industry, it means a lot for the current stakes we are facing.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

1:05 : Munir presents himself

2:10 : His definition of sustainable fashion

2:40 : How did M&J integrate sustainability  ?

4:25 : What did he implement in terms of a sustainable strategy ?

10:00 : The objectives and the challenges of the company

12:35 : The real meaning of sustainable action

16:10 : How do they process internally ?

25:00 : The reality of the fashion/textile industry in Bangladesh

29:40 : What are the indicators to look at to produce in Bangladesh ?

30:55 : How can the fashion revolution be accelerated in this country ? 

32:15 : What does Munir want to close the door to in our industry ? 

33:20 : What does he look out to get inspired ? 

34:35 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought ? 

35:05 : Who would he like to listen to in this podcast ?

KEY LEARNINGS

 « Nature doesn’t need you, but you need nature. »

« Every small step counts. That is how you climb and get to the top. »

« The customer needs to pay the right price for the right product. »

« Sustainability comes up with measurements. »

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This week we’re meeting with Sylvie Bénard, the president of the organisation Paris Good Fashion and the founder of the consulting agency La Dame à la Licorne.

We can consider her as one of the pioneers of sustainability in the fashion and luxury industry. With a scientific background, she is at the genesis of the environmental department in the LVMH Group. 

After two decades of consolidating an international community around the sustainable topic, she kept that same energy to commit into a different project. Paris Good Fashion encourages a systemic change within the fashion industry. Federating a community of leading actors at many scales, whether they are luxury groups, retailers, fashion schools or brands, the organisation develops working groups and tools focused on concrete actions.

In this episode, Sylvie explains her dedication from day one regarding those topics, why she still believes in a sustainable transition and what actions can be done to work in that way.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

1:05 : Sylvie presents herself

2:30 : What does sustainable fashion mean to her ?

3:45 : Why has she dedicated her life to sustainability ?

5:00 : What is Paris Good Fashion ?

7:55 : Why did she decide to join an organisation and what makes them stand out of the crowd ?

11:10 : The list of what they implemented and the results of the initiatives

15:30 : How do they measure their improvements ?

16:15 : How can the fashion industry accelerate its sustainable revolution ?

20:25 : Why does she feel optimistic regarding this subject ?

22:25 : What are the upcoming challenges for the fashion industry 

23:30 : How do you get trained on these topics ?

25:10 : Are there any « wrong » good ideas ?

26:25 : What are her favorite initiatives ?

28:00 : What does Sylvie want to close the door to in our industry ?

28:10 : What does she look out to get inspired ?

28:25 : What is the last piece of clothes she bought ?

29:00 : Who would she like to listen to in this podcast ?

KEY LEARNINGS

« It is difficult to make decisions because we are in a world constantly changing. Since the perfect product does not exist, you have to make the best decisions in complete awareness of the information we have today. »

« Making beautiful and sustainable products means bringing together all the actors of the supply chain, not only the designers. »

« The next step is to train and form the customer. »

« We strongly believe it is only by working together that we will bring a real systemic change. »

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT PARIS GOOD FASHION :

https://parisgoodfashion.fr/fr/ 

SYLVIE BÉNARD ON LINKEDIN : 

https://www.linkedin.com/in/sylvie-bénard-1111811b/?originalSubdomain=fr 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

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Cette semaine, Smart Creation vous emmène à la rencontre de Pascal Monfort. 

Fondateur du cabinet de conseil Rec, il accompagne de nombreuses marques à comprendre l’époque et ses mutations. Son territoire d’expertise se concentre notamment sur le sport, un univers qu’il associe de pair avec l’industrie de la mode et ses problématiques. 

Si la RSE est un sujet inévitable à traiter pour ces marques, elle reste néanmoins complexe à appréhender. D’un côté, il y a ceux qui ont inclus la question dès la genèse de la marque et qui en ont fait leur succès. Pour d’autres, le problème se pose différemment avec des actions basées sur des décisions marketing. 

Chez Rec, Pascal prône une communication authentique et des mesures d’action concrètes à court terme. Un discours réaliste et honnête qui lui vaut une relation de confiance avec ses clients. 

Dans cet épisode, Pascal nous partage son regard analytique sur ces transformations : Comment les marques de sport s’adaptent-elles ? La responsabilité est-elle une tendance vouée à s’épuiser ? Les leaders savent-ils concilier croissance et responsabilité avec audace ? 

SE RETROUVER DANS L’ÉPISODE

0:50 : Pascal se présente

1:50 : Comment les marques de sport intègrent-elles le sujet de la responsabilité ?

9:55 : Allier croissance et mesures responsables, une illusion ?

14:20 : Faire des produits beaux et responsables

18:35 : Les marques de sport et les problématiques environnementales

21:15 : Les marques se donnent-elles les moyens d’appliquer leurs mesures ?

25:35 : Comment le sujet est abordé chez Rec ?

27:40 : Comment impulsent-ils le changement chez leurs clients ?

33:20 : Le pouvoir de la législation

35:00 : À quoi veut-il mettre fin dans notre industrie ?

35:50 : Qu’est-ce qu’il regarde pour être inspiré ?

36:20 : La dernière pièce vestimentaire qu’il s’est acheté

37:05 : La personne qu'il souhaiterait entendre dans ce podcast

KEY LEARNINGS

« Aujourd’hui, il ne faut pas que les propos d’une marque soient à l’origine d’initiatives marketing. »

« Ne crie pas sur tous les toits des promesses que tu ne peux pas tenir. »

« Les marques les plus engagées sont celles qui savent qu’il y a encore plus à faire. »

« On pousse à ne pas mentir, à prouver ses actes et à optimiser les actions concrètes. »

Pour en savoir plus sur Rec :

http://trendsmarketing.paris

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we’re meeting with Daniel Gayle, the founder and director of the menswear brand DenzilPatrick. 

The London based designer previously worked for many established brands such as Philip Lim, Kenzo and Victoria Beckham. There he got a real insight of what was managing a business and setting up its creative vision. 

Who thought that launching a brand in those days and standing out was still possible ? Well, Daniel makes it real with his will of expressing his own artistic vocabulary. At the essence of the brand is everything that defines him and what he thought was missing in the fashion industry. Experimenting is at the core of his process. He let himself time to create garments that are relevant for the people that make them as well as for the consumer. Sourcing pre-existing materials and exploring different crafting techniques, a playfulness stands out from the pieces with different colors, fabrics and patterns. 

In this episode, Daniel reveals all his process as a young brand, from his ambition to put creativity and a sustainable business together, sourcing pre-existing materials and engaging a fair approach to garments.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

1:00 : Daniel presents himself

5:45 : Why did he launch his own brand ?

10:05: How did he design his business model ?

15:45 : His definition of sustainability and its application

23:15 : How important is his sustainable ambition ?

28:40 : What is his approach with denim ?

35:40 : Who are his clients ?

38:40 : What does Daniel want to close the door to in our industry ?

39:50 : What does he look out to get inspired ?

41:30 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought ?

42:10 : Who would he like to listen to in this podcast ?

KEY LEARNINGS

« The fundamental point of this brand is to create meaning for pieces that people can covet and share. »

« It is about sustaining ourselves in addition to the resources. »

« It would be easier for us to just make from scratch the very end product. »

« It is not about looking for a quick win but more building a rhythm, a community and an understanding of the bigger picture. »

WHERE TO FIND DenzilPatrick :

https://www.denzilpatrick.com 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION THE PODCAST

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.