Smart Creation

This week we are meeting with Nicole Lambert, she is a specialist of fibers and materials at the global organization Textile Exchange. Her role is to advise brands and organizations by providing learning tools on responsible standards and traceability.

Created in 2002, the NGO Textile Exchange focuses on the very beginning of the supply chain when it comes to raw materials, in order to minimize the environmental impact. 

They work on all kind of fibers and now they aim to extend their digital database to improve their sustainable practices.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:50 : Nicole presents herself and the NGO she works for

01:45 : Nicole’s background

02:15 : What does sustainable fashion mean to her

03:25 : Where should we start to make fashion a more sustainable industry

04:30 : How does she accompany brands

06:00 : About standards and certifications

07:55 : What’s the difference between the certifications OCS and GOTS

08:35 : More about GOTS

10:45 : The difference between RWS and RDS

12:35 : The problem with polyester

14:35 : How can national legislation accelerate sustainability 

17:40 : How to accelerate national legislation 

18:55 : What are the upcoming challenges for Nicole

19:35 : About circularity

20:40 : Are growth and sustainability compatible 

22:10 : What is the last piece of clothes she bought

22:40 : Who she would like to listen to in this podcast

23:30 : What does she look at to get inspired

23:50 : What does she want to close the door in our industry 

KEY LEARNINGS

« It’s important to have certain values in a company and set your priorities. »

« A lot has been done in term of sustainability but just from the initiative of companies in the industry itself. And it hasn’t been driven by the legislation. »

« The whole revolution is definitely a question of everyone getting together and it has to be a collective action for a collective impact. »

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To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Jonathan Cohen, he founded his eponymous brand in 2011 with Sarah Leff. Based in New York City, Jonathan Cohen’s designs are known for their colorful and bright printed dresses which successfully brought him to win the CFDA fashion fund. 

With only two collections a year, Jonathan is running a responsible and conscious business. In this episode, he explains how important it is to source materials in a sustainable way and how does he take action towards change in the fashion industry.

CONTENT TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:55 : Jonathan presents himself and his brand

01:25 : Jonathan’s background

02:00 : Was sustainability a topic the year he launched his brand

03:05 : What does sustainable fashion mean to him

03:25 : How to source sustainable material

05:30 : Where to start to create a sustainable fashion brand

08:40 : About animal welfare

10:35 : How did Jonathan learn more on sustainability

14:30 : How can the industry accelerate the sustainable revolution

16:50 : The KPI’s he’s looking at for his company

17:18 : What’s the future for his company in terms of sustainability

18:50 : What does Jonathan want to close the door in our industry

19:28 : What does he look at to get inspired

19:50 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought

20:35 : Who he would like to listen to in this podcast

KEY LEARNINGS

« Make small changes, start small and it will naturally grow from there. »

« Something we were very passionate about was understanding the waste that we were creating from production and how we could solve that solution. »

« Every company needs to look at what they are doing. They need to see how they are approaching the production, how they are sourcing and how they can make it better. »

« We all need to be sharing informations and help one another. »

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast.

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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Disclaimer: this episode was recorded in February 2020, which is why the discussion makes no mention of the Covid19 crisis. Enjoy our conversation ! 

This week we are meeting with Célia Poncelin, she joined Heuritech a few years ago, a startup that uses artificial intelligence helping brands to predict trends. She also founded the company

Lunetist, an eyewear brand handmade in France. With her team at Heuritech, she’s making sure they’re doing relevant choices on the market and communicate to the public. Launched in 2013, the startup recently changed its branding towards sustainable values by giving the right tools to brands. Thanks to data analysis, they guide brands through their creative process but also they make them avoid overstock. They are contributing to the changes for a better way of consuming.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

0:55 : Célia presents herself and the company Heuritech

1:35 : What did Celia do before joining Heuritech

2:25 : What does it mean according to Célia "sustainable fashion"

3:55 : What’s the link between Heuritech and sustainability

5:35 : What services do they provide to brands

6:20 : What’s going on the market right now with sustainability

9:05 : What are professionals expecting from Heuritech

11:20 : To what extent Heuritech is sustainable

12:55 : How does she think the industry can accelerate the sustainable revolution 13:50 : What tools are the best for predictive analytics

16:15 : Where she would start to create a sustainable brand

18:25 : What are the biggest challenge for Heuritech and the fashion industry 20:10 : What does Célia want to close the door in our industry ?

20:55 : What does she look at to get inspired ?

21:55 : What is the last piece of clothes she bought ?

22:58 : Who she would like to listen in this podcast ?

KE

Y

LE

ARNINGS

« Production volume is expected to grow by 60% in ten years so if we continue this way, we’ll have a massive waste in the industry »

« Brands can make better decision on what they should produce and also the quantity »

« Making the best product possible is where it all starts »

« Each brand has its own challenge »

« We really want to change fashion deeply and to show how it can be done in a good way »

T

O

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Balzac Paris is a young French fashion house with a chic and modern spirit. At the source of Balzac Paris there are three friends passionate about ready-to-wear fashion and digital: Charles, Victorien, and Chrysoline!

This happy team has a taste for entrepreneurship and the desire to modernize the bow tie. In 2011, Balzac Paris was born. The bow ties take off and contribute to the brand’s development. After this success, in January 2014, Balzac Paris offers literary sweatshirts showcasing French author couples for a mixture of loving culture. These sweats quickly become essentials. Balzac Paris makes a place for itself as the literary brand that allies fashion and literature in their ephemeral collections sold in exclusive limited edition and on the net. The ephemeral sales are offered with the seasons. Chrysoline describes her brand as “trendy but never victim,” concerned with always offering a timeless wardrobe: chic and comfortable, of day or night, with basic colours and exclusive prints.

Marie-Emanuelle is in charge of developping and prudcing collection at Balzac Paris.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:52 : Marie-Emanuelle introduce herself and Balzac Paris

02:04 What does sustainable fashion mean according to her

02:45 Balzac Paris & Marie-Emanuelle sustainable Eureka moment

05:14 What did she implement to make Balzac Paris more sustainable

06:45 What is a good sourced material

06:50 What does she advise to a young designer to source the right sustainable material

09:00 How to make sure everybody in the compagny is at the same page

11:20 What are the KPIs they are looking at

12:20 What are the most difficult material to get rid of

12:30 What should the fashion industrie do to accelerate it fashion revolution

15:00 What are the biggest challenges for Balzac Paris and the fashion industrie when it comes to sustainability

18:00 Quick rapid fire question

KEY LEARNINGS

"Going fast in a sustainable way is very peacky."

"The biggest challenges is the traceability."

" Being sustainable is also about making something very creative with high constraints."

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To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision  https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Kenji, he is responsable for Business development and sustainability at Spiber which is a biotech material company that has develop a way to brewed protein fiber an another protein material thought a fermentation process.

Kenji ensures that all the materials that they are producing are made in the most sustainable way possible. This small but fast growing company working hard to offer new solution to the fashion industry. Their materials has been used last year to create North Face products, one of the most sustainable solution on the market.

In this episode, Kenji is going through all the material Spiber has been devlopped and how the nature has been a major inspiration in their fiber invention?

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:52 : Kenji presents himself and the company Spiber.

01:15 : What is Kenji role into the company ? 

01:40 : According to Kenji, what does sustainable fashion means ?

02:10 : What is the Eureka moment that push his company to start this new projet and what is the background of the company ? 

03:00 : What Spiber is exactly doing ?

04:30 : Kenji explains the process to create new materials at Spiber.

06:30 : To what extend this product are sustainable ?

07:50 : What would Spiber be presenting at Premiere Vision next year? 

08:30 : Do we need a minimum of volume to order at Spiber?

09:20 : Among all the products he will be presenting or already existing, what is Kenji favorite one ? 

09:45 : According to Kenji, what makes his company different from others ? 

10:27 : Where Kenji see the biggest challenges coming in the next years for his company ? How Kenji will be able to scale his method ? 

11:00 : How can the fashion industry can accelerate his sustainable revolution ?

11:50 : For a young designer, what would Kenji's advice to make a more sustainable fashion ? 

13:00 : What does Kenji want to close the door to in our industry ? 

13:15 : Where Kenji look at to get inspired ? 

14:10 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought ? 

15:10 : Who he would like to listen in this podcast ?

15:50 : Where can we look at if we want to learn more about Spiber ?

16:00: What makes Kenji optimistic about the future ?

KEY LEARNINGS

Sustainable fashion can means many think : it can be buying less clothes, buying clothes that last longer, buying clothes that have been made in the most responsable ways. It is also repairing your clothes and using second hand.

Contributing to make a more sustainable fashion is the most important thing, it is the reason why the company exist and why the people in the teams are spending many years working and developing this new materials.

The materials they are producing are extremely unique, and it can be plastic free.

This is very important that the biggest company, the ones who are making the largest volume of products take big decisions to change and to accelerate the fashion revolution. But small companies also can play a very important role by innovating and making new technologie available to offer them the choice. So startup, innovators, and big companies, all together, can make big changes.

One of the most important thing is transparency in the supply chain. If a young designer has the choice between two materials, two different factories or different processes,. If one is more transparent than the other, it can make the difference, he should always choose the most transparent option. 

Brands are seriously getting aware that they need to make change and they are actually starting to make action. It makes hope for the future. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision  https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Olivier Raynaud, he is the general manager of Raynaud Jeune, founded in 1928. This family business is a small lamb skin tannery in the south of France. The company is mostly focused on leather for shoes and leather good. They are produced as sustainable as they can and are very careful about their customers' demands. In this episode, Olivier tells us his two eureka moments that pushed him to become more sustainable, he explains how he is managing his company and he details the best practices Raynaud Jeune has adopted over the past years. He also explains us the process of his vegetable tanned leather and gives advises for young designer who want to build a sustainable brand.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:52 : Olivier Reynaud presents himself and his company Reynaud Jeune.

01:30 : What does it mean, according to Olivier sustainable fashion ? 

02:05  : To what extend his company is sustainable ? What was the Eureka moment when he decided to be more sustainable ?

05:30 : What have been the results of this sustainable strategy ? 

06:50 : According to Olivier, how can the fashion industry can accelerate the transition to a more sustainable way of doing ?

08:40 : What are the KPI he is looking at, to monitor his progression when it comes to sustainability ?

10:00 : Olivier tell us a little more about the process of a tannerie.

11:50 : For a young designer, when it comes to sustainability what choices they should do if they want to build a sustainable brand ? 

14:15 : Where Olivier see the biggest challenges coming in the coming years for his company and for the leather industry ?

16:05 : What does Olivier want to close the door to in this industry ? 

17:40 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought ? 

18:00 : Who he would like to listen in this podcast ? 

KEY LEARNINGS

We really try to reduced, step by step, our footprint and our carbon emissions.

« It is a very important demand from our customers. More and more my main and major customers come to visit our company and want to see what we do for the environment before they commit themselves with ourselves . We keep our customers because we have this real eco-friendly way of working. » 

« The young people that we are employing are more and more concern about the environment and are very happy to see that the general management is also very conscious about this movement. » 

« This sustainable strategy gives every day better and better image which obviously is helping directly or indirectly the business. We are getting a better position for the future. » 

« The final customer must be ready to pay a little bit more because all this things have a cost. »

« The biggest challenge is to try to convince all the people that the leather is still a good product, renewable for the future. » 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision  https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Kevin Germanier, he studied fashion at Central Saint Martin in London and worked for Louis Vuitton as a junior designer. With LVMH, he had the opportunity to do his own presentation during Paris fashion week and Nathalie Kingham from Matches Fashion bought everything. This is how he quit Louis Vuitton and starts to really work on his own brand. He is working on sustainable collection, the goal of his eco-friendly brand is to make every pieces with upcycling materials. Kevin has also the ambition to develop a healthy sustainable business, it is not only about the product, it is much more. Germanier is growing slowly but surely ! In this episode Kevin is explaining his vision and how he works by doing the opposite of the traditional fashion process.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:50 : What are you doing at Premiere Vision?

01:10 : Kevin presents himself 

2:02 : What does it mean according to Kevin "sustainable fashion" ?

4:35 : How does Kevin do keep close to his values ?

8:20 : What is the DNA of Germanier ?

10:05 : How can the fashion industry accelerate its sustanaible revolution?

12:18 : What does inspire Kevin the most at the moment when it comes to sustainability ? 

14:10 : Does Germanier have any KPI about sustainability and the growth of the brand ? 

15:15 : What is Kevin's vision for Germanier and where does he see his biggest challenges ? 

16:50 : What is the biggest challenge for the fashion industry ? 

18:28 : What does Kevin want to close the door in our industry ? 

18:35 : What does he look at to get inspired ?

19:30 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought ? 

20:15 : Who he would like to listen in this podcast ?

KEY LEARNINGS

They are so many solution to be sustainable. For exemple, it is easy to source trash because it is everywhere.

Going slowly but be sure that everything in your company is according to your values.

The quality is very important, every product created should stay forever if we really want to be sustainable. 

People are not patient enough because it will take so much time, we talk about fashion but it is link with so much more than that. It is link to politics, to sociale decision, to the localisation and your market, to the packaging, the way you sheep your clothes and the way you are consuming fashion. The biggest issue is that everything is linked if you change one thing you will affect all the others things.

Less talking, more action. We need to see action. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 

👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Kutay Saritosun, he is Director of fashion brands at Bluesign Technologies. He works with brands and their suppliers to be more sustainable. More concretely, he helps them to minimize their impact on the environnement and keep a very good quality on their product. They have three work streams : the environnement, the social and the economic impact. Bluesign Technologies has been created 20 years ago when the founders realize the impact of chemistry products on the environnement and on the people in the textile industry. They wanted to develop a solution to educate the supply chain partners and help them to reduce the risk and impact of their products. 

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

01:00 : Kutay presents himself and his company Bluesign Technologies

01:28 : What does sustainable fashion mean according to him ? 

03:20 : What was the Eureka moments that led Bluesign to develop a systemic approach that companies could use and can integrate in there sustainable strategy?

05:10 : What makes his company and his services stand out from others in the market?

07:36 : What should emerging designers think about if they want to produce sustainably?

09:41 : How does an organization become a Bluesign System Partner?

11:46 : What will Bluesign be presenting at Première Vision?

12:50:  Does Bluesign take all aspects of fashion into consideration?

13:38 : Does Bluesign have a favorite company or brand you are currently working with?

14:24 : What are the environmental, social, and economic impacts of Bluesign organization? 

16:46 : What are Bluesign certifications? What does it mean? How much does it cost?

19:30 : What are the KIPs / eKPIs they monitor? 

20:00 :  How will Bluesign contribute to sustainability in the future? 

20:26 : What are the industry’s upcoming challenges? How can Bluesign offer a solution?

22:24 : How can the fashion industry accelerate its sustainable revolution?

23:11 : What are the right indicators? Can certifications be a solution?

23:38 : When does the gouvernements are going to legislate on the subject? 

25:37:  What does he advise designers who are looking to make the right choices?

25:41: What does he want to close the door to in our industry? 

25:50 : What does he look at to get inspired ? 

22:57 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought? 

26:10 : Who he would like to listen in this podcast? 

KEY LEARNINGS

There is different way to define sustainable fashion, we have to ask ourselves many questions about : what the materials we are using to make our product ? what kind of chemical we use in our process ? what is the ecologic impact of our product during the production? what is going to happen at the product at the end of his life ? 

At the very beginning of product development, it is very important to think at the materials that you are going to use, all the steps of the supply chain, but also at his end of life and how you are going to recycle it. It is during this very early phase that all the decision you take impact the most the environment.

To be more sustainable it is important to manage the relationship with your producers, the supply chain, the sustainability of your production, put the right materials and the right chemistry. 

The first think you need to do to work with Bluesign is a commitment ! 

It is important to really search the information and to be careful with greenwashing.

The chemistry management is a big challenge for the future for all the brands.

The technology is a big help to accelerate the fashion revolution. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision  https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Pierre-Nicolas Hurstel. After years in consulting and in the world of fashion trade fair in the US, he cofounded Arianee. The Arianee project is an independent, participative - organization whose mission is to build a global standard for the digital certification of valuable objects by promoting and supporting the adoption of the Arianee protocol. In this episode Pierre-Nicolas explain the block chain technology and how it can help the fashion industry in its fashion transition to a more transparent and sustainable industry.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:50 : Pierre Nicolas presents himself and his company Arianee

03:10 : What is the Blockchain technology ? 

08:15 : How to integrate Blockchain at the Fashion industry ?

13:22 : Explications about the digital ID of a product and use case of the vegan brand : Poetic Paris.

15:58 : Facilitation of the resale en after sales programs of the product with the Blockchain technology 

17:08 : The use case of Ba&sh, with the new "resale button" to sale second-hand directly on their own website.

21:30 : What does Pierre Nicolas wants to close the door in our industry ? 

22:20 : What does he look at to get inspired ? 

22:57 : What is the last piece of clothes he bought? 

24:12 : Who he would like to listen in this podcast ? 

KEY LEARNINGS

The blockchain give the chance to solve the traceability problem and give back confidence between client and saler on a product. 

The transparency became a big expectation for the clients in their relation with the brand. 

The integration of the second hand by clothes brand like Ba&sh is a key of the futur evolution of the fashion market, everything is growing in direction of the circular economy and we need techno to accompany this kind of new practices 

Stopping the ignorance in our industry, knowing where the products are from and by who they are made. We need to become aware of the deviances of our industry on the ethic and the ecologic points. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Ruth Farrell, she is Global Marketing Director at Eastman NaiaTM. 

Made with sustainably sourced wood, Eastman NaiaTM cellulosic yarn brings the richness of nature to comfortable and effortlessly luxurious fabrics. With full traceability from tree to yarn, NaiaTM is made by Eastman in the U.S.A. with the highest safety, social, and environmental standards.

Eastman’s closed-loop production process for NaiaTM allows recycling and reuse of safe solvents and water, resulting in a yarn with a low environmental impact. Eastman is committed to collaborating with partners to collectively build a more sustainable fashion industry. Designers can be comfortable choosing NaiaTM. It transforms into luxurious, soft, and easy-to-care-for fabrics, giving designers more freedom and choice. With Eastman NaiaTM cellulosic yarn, you don’t have to compromise.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:51 Ruth presents herself and Eastman 

01:36 What is Naïa and cellulose yarn? 

02:15 What does sustainable fashion mean according to Ruth? 

03:00 Does Eastman has always been into this sustainable strategy? 

04:05 What is the difference between conventional and sustainable cellulose yarn? 

05:11 Where does Eastman source its row material? 

06:20 What they will be presenting next February at PV? 

07:25 What is Ruth favorite one? 

08:30 What is the fonction of those yarn and fabric 

09:30 What should we trust when it comes to certification? 

12:20 What are Naïa biggest challenges in the coming years? 

13:40 Is it much more expensive than conventional products? 

14:40 What does she want to close the door to in our industrie? 

15:05 What does she look at to get inspired? 

15;46 What is the last piece of cloth she bought 

16:15 Who she would like to listen to in this podcast? 

KEY LEARNINGS

I see sustainability as something that has to take into account the entire supply chain and the lifecycle of the fiber, of the fabric and of the garment. 

The biggest challenges is making sustainability accessible to everybody. That is the challenge for us all. And there is going to be a lot of collaboration needed for that. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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