Smart Creation

This week, we are meeting with Francesco Marini , he is the 3rd generation and Designer and Inovation manager at Marini Industrie. 

The history of Marini group went on with Riccardo and Roberto Marini, Mario’s sons. Thanks to their enthusiasm and their passionate vision, they carried on this beautiful story made in Italy.

The third generation of the company, with a highly specialized technical-stylistic staff, made the family even greater enclosing under the group near the historic brand Marini&Cecconi, also Ospiti del Mondo, Marini Tessuti Uomo and Assotex.

The four brands under Marini group continue to tell a story that makes fashion happen everyday. Research on materials and textures is the daily bread of the company, creating what stays behind the most popular fashion brands in the world.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:51 Francesco presents himself and Marini Industrie 

01:36 What is stretch fabrics? 

02:07 What does sustainable fashion mean according to Francesco? 

02:41 What is the difference between the conventional and sustainable fabrics they are doing now

03:32 Why did they decide to implement a sustainable strategy? 

04:32 Where do they source their row material? 

07:00 What they will be presenting next February at PV? 

08:40 What makes Marini Industrie stand out of the others? 

10:00 What KPIs does Francesco look at to monitor their sustainable strategy? 

11:15 What are their biggest challenges when it comes to sustainability? 

13:00 How can the fashion industry accelerate its sustainable revolution?

14:00 What should the designers and buyers should look at to verify the products are truly sustainable? 

16:30 What does Francesco wants to close the door to in our industry? 

17:30 What does he look at to get inspired? 

18:42 What is the last piece of clothes he bought? 

19:15 Who he would like to listen to in this podcast? 

KEY LEARNINGS 

I think designers need to be more involved than in the past in the manufacturing process of the yarn. 

I want to close the door to fake news in this industrie. 

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To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week, we are meeting with Marie Demaegdt, she is Textile and Sustainability Director at CELC (The European Confederation of Linen and Hemp), and in this episode we are talking about flax and linen.

The European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC) is the only European agro-industrial organization bringing together and federating all the stages of production and transformation for flax and hemp. It is the specialized spokesperson for 10,000 European companies of 14 countries, overseeing the fibre’s development from plant to finished product. Founded in 1951, the CELC is a source of pioneering thought, economic analysis, industry consultation and strategic direction.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:51 Marie presents herself and the CELC

00:22 What is the difference between flax and linen

01:42 What does means sustainability according to Marie

02:21 What has been the Eureka moment to implement a sustainable strategy in her agro industry

03:30 To what extend flax and linen is more sustainable than over fibers

04:10 What is the process of making from flax to the fabric

06:00 Where does the European flax in grown

06:30 What CELC will be showing at Première Vision next February 2020

07:23 What is so amazing about this fiber

08:33 What have been the results of the CELC sustainable strategy

09:11 What about the linen industry certifications

10:40 What is the future of the linen industry

11:30 What will be the biggest challenges for the linen industry in the coming years

12:45 How can the fashion industry accelerate its fashion revolution 

13:30 What are the right indicators, the right thing to ask to supplier when you are on Première Vision

15:00 Where does she look at to get inspired

15:46 What is the last piece of cloth she bought

16:00 Who is the personnality she would like to listen to in this podcast

KEY LEARNINGS 

Flax is grown on the same land every 6 or 7 years, it means that it respects the soil and limits the development of disease.

Flax is grown in western Europe without irrigation, it's GMO free, it uses little pesticide or fertilizer, it's biodegradable, and its transformation into fiber is entirely mechanical.

Due to its sustainability and innovation linen has become sexy and is more and more used by designers in their collections.

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week, we are meeting with Guido Zilli, who is in charge of the communication and sustainability at Gruppo Dani. He is taking care of environmental matters, safety matters, environmental labels and sustainability reports. Dani is an Italian tannery established in 1950 based in Arzignano near Venice. They started their sustainable approach 10 years ago as they believed this kind of strategy was the right way to survive and develop the firm in the long-term. 

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

0:59 : Guido presents himself

1:52 : What is sustainable fashion according to him

2:48 : Since when Gruppo Dani is sustainable 

4:53 : The contradiction between sustainability and leather

7:07 : The difference between a conventional leather and a sustainable one

8:57 : Guido tells us more about the new collection Gruppo Dani presented to Première Vision

11:12 : Where does Gruppo Dani source its materials? 

12:20 : What makes Gruppo Dani stand out from the others? 

14:36 : The results of the sustainable strategy in terms of social, environmental and financial impacts 

17:36 : The future projects of Gruppo Dani in terms of sustainability 

22:09 : How can the leather industry accelerate its sustainable revolution? 

25:35 Different questions to Guido about the leather industry, what inspires him, the last piece he bought…

KEY LEARNINGS

Sustainability can be seen as a journey. We should not only consider economic questions when we plan strategies and investments but also social and environmental impacts of our decisions. The long-term goal for Dani is to be able to consider all those aspects at the same time. 

Leather can also be seen a sustainable product. We process an existing product from another sector: the meat sector or the diary sector. The leather sector from an historical perspective is a proactive agent in the framework of a circular economy. The origin of the product is important as we give value to an existing product from another sector.

From Gruppo Dani’s perspective, there is no real difference between conventional and sustainable leather. If we consider sustainability as a concept to manage a firm, it means that even if you process leather that is chrome tenant, or heavy metal-free, you use the same approach, which means to save resources, to recover buy products, and to have products that are made with the same attention to environment and to people. 

The real goal of Gruppo Dani is to be able to consider the 3 circles of sustainability at the same time when they make investments: economic, social and environmental impacts of strategic plans and decisions. There are two main goals: to become a carbon neutral tannery and to increase the cooperation and initiatives with some of their customers. They want to establish projects to reduce the natural resources consumption in a supply chain perspective and to be able to offset some of these emissions. 

There can be some guidelines to change the leather industry. First of all, we have to be proud of our sector and to increase our efforts to reduce consumption of natural resources and the pollution load. We have to be aware that today we have an important role in the circular economic framework. We have to increase specific competencies, especially for tanners that work within global supply chain. They need some competencies such as lifecycle assessment methodology. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week, we are meeting with Isaac Nichelson, he is the founder and CEO of Circular Systems S.P.C. (Social Purpose Corporation), and in this episode, we are talking about his company Circular System, how to talk about sustainability without doing greenwashing, how can the fashion industry accelarate its sustainable revolution and his biggest challenges for the coming years.

Circular Systems S.P.C. (Social Purpose Corporation) is a materials science company, focused on the development of innovative circular and regenerative technologies, transforming waste into valuable fiber, yarn, and textile fabrics for the fashion industry.

With their waste-to-fiber platforms Texloop and Agraloop, combined with our proprietary Orbital Composite Yarn technology, they offer break-through solutions for the most efficient management of textile/apparel and agricultural waste streams.

The Circular Systems, “Lightest Touch™” philosophy, defines their mission to retain the maximum amount of embedded energy in waste inputs— to create the highest-value outputs. They strive to achieve beyond zero-waste in order to achieve regenerative impacts for the benefit of people, planet, and industry. This is achieved through the most elegantly simple and efficient approaches to deconstruction, coupled with the most advanced new-materials strategies. 

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:51 Isaac presents himself and his company.

11:28 Why he decided to work in this industry and take this problem personally.

17:34 What does it means sustainability, the greenwashing.

18:50 How we have to talk about the problem with doing greenwashing.

21:02 Isaac tells us good advice on material/products and if it’s more expensive.

24:21 Does he work with a lot of big company.

25:24 How can the fashion industry accelarate its sustainable revolution.

26:58 Does the industy talk together to find solutions? 

28:44 The biggest challenge in the next years? 

29:48 What he wants to close the door to this industry, what he looks at to get inspired, the last pieces of clothes he bought, which personality he would like to listen to in this podcast.

KEY LEARNINGS 

We should talk about our impact, and we should talk about moving tour with generative impact as a high bar, as a goal. Zero impact is not gonna save us as spieces, it’s a very good milestone on the way to achieve beneficial impact. We need to start to talk about it in this industry in a new way.

The good news is that the industry is collaborating at the highest level. 

Over the next year, the biggest chalenge, is scaling as fast and humanely possible to meet the absolute massive volume that are required if we gonna really change things.

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week, we are meeting with Jeanine Ballone, she is the managing director at Fashion 4 Development Solutions, and in this episode, we talking about the signification of « sustainable fashion », how to be sustainable fashion when you are a small company, and the biggest challenge in the coming years.

Fashion 4 Development (F4D) is a private sector global platform founded by Evie Evangelou in January 2011 in support of the United Nations Millennium Development Goals and “Every Woman, Every Child”, the UN initiative spearheaded by Secretary-General Ban Ki Moon. F4D builds upon the core leadership principles of the 4Es: Educate, Empower, Enhance and Enrich, and activates partnerships that promote the fashion and textile industry, advance economic and social development activities, preserve culture and empower women. In 2015 F4D committed to support the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals and place a significant focus on sustainable lifestyle practices for a healthier world. Fashion 4 Development’s message to promote positive social change is received with open arms around the world, with initiatives in over 20 countries.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE

00:55 Jeanine presents herself.

02:41 What does it means « sustainable fashion ».

04:56 What’s the danger with the fact that everybody talking about sustainability.

06:12 The direction she advises to go.

07:42 What she does with her clients.

09:15 What she does with the UN ?

12:22 A good example of legal things that is happening.

13:16 What to start with when your are a small company.

14:35 A good example of brand that acts in the right way.

15:53 The biggest challenge that will happen in the coming years.

17:28 How to teach without being boring and sermonizers.

18:39 What does she want to close the door to in this industry?

19:27 What does she look at to be inspired ?

20:17 The last piece of clothing she bought.

20:55 Who would she like to hear in this podcast?

KEY LEARNINGS 

The business model have to change and if you don’t fundamentally change your business model, there’s gonna be an issue going foward. I do believe that people wants to be more individual, people want special products, I think customization will be a very important part of the future and I think that we gonna innovate in all the supply chain. I think what we are seeing is that you can’t just keep old practices and try to change them, people gonna have to innovate and do new things in the supply chain.

You have to know your supply chain, you have to be intimate with it, you have to own it, because that’s what you are responsible for, you could be creative and selling products and opening new eras but the idea that you know where your goods are produced, your water consumption, your chemical consumption… things all the supplier can and would be mandated in the future of the business to supply to you... and transparency and traceability, I believe are going to trigger the real opportunity for consumers to react to your brand. If you’re not trusted, I don’t believe that consumers will continue to buy in the future.

If you’re not really honest, and you’re not clear and transparent, it’s going to be a problem for your going forward. I don’t think designer brands will survive and I don’t believe mass market brands will survive the way that they are in a current business model, breaking down and revaluating and remodeling those business concept right now is the really most important.

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week, we are meeting with Marina Coutelan, she is Fashion Manager for The Smart Creation Platform at Première Vision. 

Since its creation in 2015, the Smart Creation platform for study and information has promoted the responsible approaches of Première Vision exhibitors, showcasing a new generation of values combining creativity, innovation and sustainability.

Its goal is to create new perspectives and new competitive advantages for the entire creative fashion industry, accompanied by opportunities for business development.



Smart Creation Area -the physical space at Première Vision Paris- is specifically dedicated to this theme. This is an informative, educational, visionary and multimedia space where exhibitors, designers, buyers and fashion brands can experience and truly visualize the progress the industry is making in terms of responsibility.

TO FIGURE OUR WHERE YOU ARE IN THE EPISODE

01:11 How to be sustainable in 2019? 

04:00 How can you be sustainable when you work on leather? 

07:00 Should we use polyester today? Polyamide? 

08:45 Pros and the cons of recycled materials 

10:40 If you are a coat designer go and see Manteco https://www.manteco.com IG @manteco_spa

11:40 If you are t-shirt/ jersey designer go and see Varvaressos https://varvaressos.eu/en/ 

12:20 If you are a hoody designer go and see SMI Tessuti https://www.smitessuti.it/ 

12:52 If your are a shirt designer go and see Monti http://www.monti.it IG @tessituramonti1911

13:35 If your are looking for tech material go and see Primaloft http://www.primaloft.com IG @primaloft

14:11 If your are underwear designer go and see Brugnoli https://www.brugnoli.it

14:30 If you are shoes designer go and see Atko http://atkoleather.com IG @atkoleather

15:00 If you are a leather good designer go and see Cuir marin de France https://www.ictyos.com IG @ ictyos_official

15:40 If you are jeweler designer go and see Valter http://www.valter.it IG @valtersrl

16:20 What about dying and new fibers?

18:36 The evolution of the last few years on the sustainability? 

21:00 What does it mean « sustainable fashion »? 

22:00 How to accelerate the sustanability revolution? 

23:00 What does she look at to stay ahead of the game?

23:50 The last piece of cloth she bought? 

KEY LEARNINGS 

Push for the questions, ask always, push your suppliers, visit them always, as much as you can because if you want to share with the customer what you are doing, and what are they interest of your product, you have to know as much as you can.

There is no option not to go into action now. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Deborah Berger, she is deputy general manager of Chargeurs Luxury Materials, and in this episode we talking about Nativa Precious Fiber division, an ethical and responsible merino wool.

Providing brands with a responsible and traceable fibre, whose production protocol is based on best market practices, is the commitment of Nativa Precious Fiber, a division of the Chargeur Luxury Materials group specialised in making merino wool.

The fibre's production is organised around three primary pillars: the total absence of animal cruelty, with time and care devoted to the shearing of each animal; the rational management of livestock pastures, with a principle of land rotation and a complete recycling plan for the water used in its factories; and social responsibility towards its workers, from the farmers in South America and Oceania to their combing plant workers and manufacturers.

Their protocol is regularly audited by a third party organisation, for an eco-responsible and flexible wool sector, which guarantees superlative quality to buyers of its yarns, fabrics and finished products.

This luxurious and committed merino wool is yours to discover in the Smart Creation platform.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE 

00:50 Deborah presents herself and Nativa Precious Fiber

01:30 What does sustainable fashion means according to Deborah

02:00 When did Nativa Precious Fiber decided to move to sustainable way of doing

02:52 What does it mean resecting animals and farmers, how you make sure it is always respected

05:15 The different step of wool transformation

05:50 The difference between their conventional and sustainable products

06:30 What else to implement to reduce the impact on the environment?

07:30 Are they working with recycled wool, the superwash new development to avoid chlorine 

09:45 What Make Nativa Precious Fiber stand out of the others 

11:30 What is the purpose of using block chain? 

12:45 What have been the results of the sustainable strategy 

13:45 What does it cost to increase the standard when you are a farmer 

14:40 What are the brand they are working with? 

15:40 What is the future of their sustainable strategy 

16:30 What can we do to increase to increase the path of the sustainable revolution? 

17:30 How can you communicate to your final customer that what you are doing is sustainable 

19:45 What does she want to close the door to in our industrie 

20:50 Where does she look at to get inspired

22:00 Who she would like to listen to in this podcast? 

KEYLEARNING 

« For us sustainability is transparency and traceability. » 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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This week we are meeting with Monique Maissan, she is the founder of Waste2Wear and a textile Engineer passionate to make beautiful textile products, and in particular high-quality garments. She was however always troubled by the industry she was working in, due to its negative environmental impact and poor social compliance.

When she came in contact, in 2008, with the initial invention of making fibers and thick yarns out of plastic bottles she thought: this is it! I have to work on this to turn round the textile industry.

Through creating Waste2Wear the need of collaboration with not only players in the textile industry became obvious, and often very unexpected collaborations and partnerships were formed. In trying to create awareness and actively playing a roll in solving the problem, the purpose of Waste2Wear became more clear: It was meant to become a solution provider. Using Recycled Polyester as a tool to create partnerships, collaborations and finding solutions to solve the plastic pollution.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE 

00:50 Monique presents herself and Waste2Ware?

01:30 What is sustainable fashion according to Monique?

02:30 Her pathway in fashion and what brings her to sustainable fashion?

04:00 How did she starts Waste2Ware?

06:00 What is the process of manufacturing recycled polyester, does it include circularity? 

09:42 What is recycled polyester and how much energy do you save when producing it ?

12:00 What kind of product do you make with recycled polyester?

14:00 What is a sustainable product after all? 

15:50 What are the financial results of implementing a sustainable strategy?

18:00 What has been the trigger of the sustainability awareness shift? 

19:30 How can you convince people to go sustainable? 

22:00 What are her biggest challenge other the next years?

24:00 What is the reality of producing in China and in India in term ethics and sustainability? 

26:00 What does the block chain is going to change in the process of manufacturing 

27:00 What does she want to close the door to in our industry? 

29:30 What does she look at to get inspired?

30:30 What is the last piece of cloth she bought? And who she would like to listen to in this podcast? 

KEY LEARNINGS

When you use existing PET (polyethylene terephthalate), you can save about 75% energy, 85% water, 70% of carbon footprint. This is the difference between virgin polyester and recycled polyester.

Other the years, we, as a company we have recycled about 30 million of plastic bottle and we have saved 2,3 million kilo of carbon and 26 million litres of water and about 26mega heads of energy. 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

We aRe Spin Dye® is a Swedish fashion tech company that has developed a sustainable coloring method for synthetic textiles which reduces the environmental impact compared to the traditional dyeing process. The company was founded by Martin Berling in 2014. Headquartered in Stockholm, Sweden, We are Spindye has since it hit the market had colabs with brands such as Quiksilver, Peak Performance, Bergans of Norway, Roxy and Fjällräven.

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE 

00:50 Andreas presents himself and We aRe Spin Dye® 

01:50 What does sustainable fashion means according to Andreas

03:35 What has been the eureka moment in Andreas' life 

05:11 What is the difference between conventional and recycled polyester 

10:00 What We aRe Spin Dye® will be presenting at PV next September

11:00 Andreas' favorite products and the process from the pet bottle to the recycled fiber 

13:00 How does he make sure his partners are respectful of the environment 

15:00 How to communicate the sustainability effort to the final customer 

19:00 Exemple of collaboration with clients 

20:30 The future of We aRe Spin Dye® 

22:00 How does We aRe Spin Dye®  improve circularity 

23:30 What are the best sustainable exemples on the market 

25:00 What does Andreas want to close the door to

26:00 What does he looks at to get inspired 

27:30 How can the fashion industry can make sustainable a more attractive message

28:20 The last piece of clothing Andreas bought

KEYLEARNING 

« Sustainable fashion is about business model with the least possible impact join with as little interference with creativity. » 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

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For this fifth episode of Smart Creation, we met with Nicolò Zumaglini, he is the CEO at Lanificio Subalpino. 

At Lanificio Subalpino, textile has been a family story since 1940. The generations have shared the same values and a deep sense of detail to realize unique creations. The members of the team are working all together to propose the best quality in terms of fabrics and new innovative designs as the ones they are presenting for the next season. They will have a new range of fabrics for jackets, pants, coats and accessories. Prince of Wales, tartan, stripes, check, micro – structures in wool, cotton, wool and linen, cotton and stretch fabrics will be used.

Lanificio Subalpino is also proud to announce the development of Eco-Friendly fabrics with new interesting qualities! To get more before the show, check their website!

CONTENT & TO FIND YOUR WAY IN THE EPISODE 

01:00 Nicolò presents himself and Lanificio Subalpino

01:12 What does it mean Sustainable Fashion according to Nicolò

01:40 How long Lanificio Subalpino has been working a more sustainable way

02:40 What does Lanificio Subalpino is manufacturing

03:00 What is the difference between conventional and sustainable products

04:20 What are the different step of the manufacturing process

06:00 What does Lanificio Subalpino will be presenting at PV next September 

08:10 What has been the results of their sustainable strategy 

11:50 What are the savings they made thanks to their sustainable strategy

12:20 Is the need for sustainable products is the same market by market

14:20 How can the fashion industry accelerate its sustainable revolution

16:00 What does Nicolò want to close the door to in our industrie

16:30 What does he look at to get inspired when it comes to sustainability

19:40 What is the last piece of clothing Nicolò bought

21:40 Who he wants to listen to in the podcast

QUOTE

« I remember, when I was a little boy, working with my father and brother, the river was red, navy, yellow, it was terrible! Everything was going into the river. Now it is impossible, all the water used in the dying manufactures is recycled. » 

« I want to close the door to too much production, too much waste, too much chemical. » 

TO SUPPORT SMART CREATION, THE PODCAST 

🙏 Don’t forget to share and talk about the podcast to your friends and colleagues, it’s easy and it helps the podcast a lot, and please rate it 5 stars and leave us a comment on Apple Podcast. 

To know more about Smart Creation and Première Vision 👉 https://www.premierevision.com/fr/

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.