The Italy Travel Podcast - An Only A Bag Podcast

If you're looking for a calmer, more laidback version of Positano, you can visit Scario! This is the first episode of our "Instead of" series, in which we offer alternatives to tourist hot-spots.

Scario is a beautiful seaside town on the Cilento Coast about three hours south of Positano. It's less expensive, less crowded, and with far more Italian tourists and town-natives, it's more authentically "Italian" feeling.

You may notice that this episode is shorter than normal. We're testing out a new format, two shorter episodes per week rather than one. You'll still get the same amount of podcast, just broken up a bit. We'd love to know which format you prefer! One one-ish hour episode or two 30-ish minute episodes? You can let us know in the comments or at onlyabag.com/contact. We're also intending on still publishing both episodes on Wednesday, but this can also change, based on feedback!

We have two hotel suggestions if you'd like to stay in Scario:

For a nice hotel on the newer side of town we suggest Hotel Ristorante Cavaliere. If you're feeling adventurous, you can check out La Francesca Sud . This is advertised as "glamping" but actually more like camping tiny-home-style in a forest rooms. However, it has private beaches and is surrounded by nature, so it's the perfect option for anyone looking to disconnect.

Both of those are affiliate links, and if you use them, Only a Bag will make a little percentage from Booking without any cost to you!

If you enjoyed this episode please leave a review and follow Only a Bag wherever you listen to podcasts! If you'd like to get in touch, you can send us a message on onlyabag.com, by email at [email protected], on Instagram, or Bluesy.

For more info, check out our articles on onlyabag.com and read our Substack Letters from the Balcony.

Thanks so much for listening!

xDarcy and Nathaniel

In this episode we'll tell you all you need to know for visiting Positano. Is it really that expensive? Can you visit Positano on a budget? What is the best way to get there? What's the beach like? And more?

From living in Italy and hearing what other people thought of Positano, we had specific expectations, but it wasn't exactly what we thought it would be. You'll have to listen to find out!

In this episode we mention a few helpful links. Here are links Only a Bag's articles on Positano and the Amalfi Coast:

How to get to Positano from Rome

How to get to the Amalfi Coast from Rome (strangely, not the same as Positano)

3 Best Towns on the Amalfi Coast for Families

For more check out our Amalfi Coast page on onlyabag.com.

The ferry that we took from Salerno to Positano was with ⁠Travelmar⁠. We highly recommend it! However, there are several different ferry companies, you can check them out on ⁠Omio⁠* which acts as a ferry aggregate. (The Omio link is an affiliate link. We are not associated with Omio, but if you book through the link, we receive a small commission and appreciate your support.)

In the episode, we mention that there is an easier walk up to the top of town and a harder one. The easier way to walk to church of Santa Maria Assunta, then walk along via dew Mulini, and take via Cristoforo Colombo up to the top of town. The harder way (which is okay for coming down, but difficult to walk up) is a walking path between Viale Pasitea/Via degli Oleandri above and Via del Saracino below.

If you're looking to book a hotel in Positano, we recommend the three below for their location and safety. These are affiliate links, and while we don't represent any of the companies listed, we do recieve a small commission which goes towards supporting Only A Bag. We appreciate your support! 

• Hotel Villa Gabrisa: Expedia | Booking
• Hotel Casa Albertina: Expedia | Booking
• Hotel Margherita (in Praiano): Expedia | Booking

Thank you so much for listening! If you'd like to learn more about traveling in Italy, check out our website onlyabag.com! If you have any questions about your trip, comments, or concerns, you can reach out through our website or Instagram.

Please follow us wherever you listen to podcasts, on Instagram, Bluesky, and Substack!

Thanks for listening!

xDarcy and Nathaniel

Just an hour south by car from the famed Amafi Coast is the lesser known (to anyone but Italians) Cilento Coast. The Amalfi Coast is incredible—there is a reason it's so heavily touristed. But let's be honest, it's packed with tourist and expensive! If you're looking for an Italian beach town with fewer tourists, more "Italian" Italian food, and protected forests and coastline, you're looking for the Cilento Coast. Plus, with fewer tourists, comes a smaller price tag.

In this episode we'll tell you about a few of our favorite towns on this coast, how to get there, and what to do.

The boat tours we mentioned in this episode are both based in Palinuro.

Cilento Coast Company* (2.5 hr tour of the blue grotto, natural arch and more + two 20 min. swim stops)

Cooperativa Palinuro Porto* (1.5 hr tour of the blue grotto, natural arch and more)

If you're planning your trip via train or bus to the Cilento, we highly recommend that you book through Trenitalia. Few other sites have schedules and correct info for public transit from Naples or Salerno for instance, where you're likely coming from.

We also mention Cilento Link in this episode which is a bus line you can use to get from town-to-town on the Cilento Coast.

If you'd like to book a ferry, for instance from Salerno to Agropoli, you can use Ferry Hopper.

If you enjoyed this episode, please follow us and leave a review! As always, if you have any questions, you can reach out on our⁠ website⁠, on ⁠Instagram⁠, and via ⁠email⁠!

You can also check out our new ⁠Substack⁠ for more whimsical articles. You can support Only a Bag by donating on ⁠Ko-fi⁠ to help us reach our goal of buying new mics!

Links marked with an asterisk* are affiliate links. Using an affiliate link does not cost you extra, but the company gives us a small percentage of the sale which helps Only a Bag!

Thanks for listening!

xDarcy and Nathaniel

It's our 100th episode! We're celebrating by mixing things up a bit. In this episode we address some of the major headlines in the news about Italy and talk about what they mean for your trip this summer. We're talking about transportation strikes across the country and the increased price for public transit in Rome. We're also talking about new selfie rules at the Uffizi in Florence and cool things to see in Siena. We've got the info you need for your summer Italy trip 2025!

In this episode, we mention two links that are easier to read and reference than a verbal list.

- This is a full breakdown of Rome's ticket prices for public transit in Nathaniel's article on understanding Rome's public transportation system.

- For info about strikes this July 2025, check out this link to a Wanted in Rome article and the official website for strike notices. If you can't read Italian, you'll need a translator app for the official site, which is of course, entirely in Italian, but the Wanted in Rome article has great info.

- You can check-out our new Substack called Letters from the Balcony

We're excited be celebrating 100th episode with you and are always happy to share our advice on traveling in Italy! If you have any questions, you can reach out on our website, on Instagram, and via email!

Please check out our new Substack and if you enjoyed this episode, follow wherever you listen! You can also donate on Ko-fi to help us reach our goal of buying new mics.

Thanks so much for listening

x Darcy and Nathaniel

Only a Bag

Everything you need to know for traveling to Rome in just over an hour! This is an update to an episode with a similar title we put out almost two years ago. In this episode we talk about whether Rome is safe, how to get there, getting around, three of our favorite markets, music festivals, and how to stay cool in the heat.

Edit: In the episode we mention the app "Waidy Wow" for locating drinking fountains in Rome, it has a new name "Acquea."

We have lots of articles on our website, Only a Bag about Rome if you're headed there and want something to bookmark.

If you're looking for a vacuum sealed water bottle, like we mention in this episode, or any sporting goods you can check out Decathlon. Here is a (non-affiliate) link to the Decathlon near Eataly which is the closest to the city center.

As mentioned in the episode, the emergency phone numbers are:

112 (general line)

113 (police)

115 (fire)

118 (medical/ambulance)

If you're looking to book a hotel in Rome, we recommend the three below for their location and safety. These are affiliate links, and while we don't represent any of the companies listed, we do recieve a small commission which goes towards supporting Only A Bag. We appreciate your support! 

Palazzo Cardinal Cesi: Expedia | Booking

Trastevere Roma | UNA Esperienze: Expedia | Booking

Palazzo Montemartini Rome: Expedia | Booking

As always, thank you all for listening!

xDarcy and Nathaniel

Overtourism has been in the news recently with protests in Spain, Portugal, and Italy as residents come together to resist the soon-to-be-coming wave of tourists this summer. While we also believe overtourism is a problem, we don't believe it's entirely the tourists' fault.

So, how can you help? In this episode we offer seven pieces of advice that may help you be a more mindful tourist. Our goal is to encourage tourists to travel and benefit local communities rather than putting a strain on them.

If you have any thoughts on overtourism, or if you have any questions either about Italy or your upcoming trip, you can find us on our ⁠⁠⁠website⁠⁠⁠⁠ or on ⁠⁠⁠Instagram⁠⁠⁠ and ⁠⁠⁠⁠Bluesky⁠⁠⁠!

If you'd like to support the podcast, you can do so by using our ⁠⁠⁠⁠Booking.com⁠⁠⁠⁠ link when booking your trip to Italy or anywhere!

If you'd like to support us directly, you can donate to us on Ko-fi (pronounced "coffee"), linked ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠here⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠.

As always, thank you for listening!

From getting there and getting around, to food and museums, we're covering everything you need to know for visiting Florence! How many museums can I see in one day? What is classic Fiorentini food? What's the best way to get to and from the airport? We'll answer all of that and more!

Here are some helpful links that we mention in this episode:

AT Bus App: App for purchasing tickets with the Autolinee Toscane (Tuscany bus company who runs public transit in Florence)

The bus ticket office is here, near (but not inside of) the Santa Maria Novella train station.

App Taxi: App for requesting a taxi in Florence (and other cities)

There are two taxi companies in Florence, they are named after the last four digits of their phone numbers:

4242: +39 055 4242

4390: +39 055 4390

Firenze Card: Museum pass

Map of water fountains: this map loads quite slowly so you can also search "public water fountains" in Google Maps

Public drinking fountain in Piazza della Signora

Map of public bathrooms: keep in mind that these charge 50 cents to one euro to use

Is Florence Safe/Is Florence Safe at Night?

If you'd like to support the podcast, you can check out some of our affiliate links for our favorite hotels below. We don't represent either the booking company or the hotel, but if you book through our link, we receive a small commission.

FH55 Hotel Calzaiuoli: 4-Star hotel in the center of town.

Expedia

Booking

Albergo Firenze: 3-star hotel with great positioning, quiet at night.

Expedia

Booking

Hotel La Scaletta Al Ponte Vecchio: Across the river a 4-star hotel near all the great restaurants.

Expedia

Booking

If you have any questions, you can find us on our ⁠⁠website⁠⁠⁠ or on ⁠⁠Instagram⁠⁠!

Thank you for listening!

xDarcy and Nathaniel

Does Florence have an off-season? What's it like on the south side of the city? Where can you find good food without having to spend €20 on a plate of pasta? Where can I look for leather goods that are high-quality? In this episode we answer those questions and more! After visiting Florence back in February we intended to record this episode in the winter, but alas we did not, so here it is now!

It's going to be summer soon and the height of tourism, so stay tuned for next week's episode: Florence Condensed! We'll tell you the essentials for visiting Florence from transportation and food to museums and the David.

The restaurants, bars, and cafes we mentioned in this episode are:

On the south side of the Arno:

Trattoria Sabatino - Via Pisana, 2R, 50143 Firenze FI

Fuor di Porta - Via Pisana, 29/r, 50143 Firenze FI

Circolo Rondinella del Torrino - Lungarno Soderini, 2, 50124 Firenze FI

La Cité - Borgo S. Frediano, 20/R, 50124 Firenze FI

Piazza Santo Spirito (this is a piazza with many bars/cafes) - 50125 Firenze FI

On the north side of the Arno:

Trattoria Le Mossacce - Via del Proconsolo, 55r, 50122 Firenze FI

Caffè Gilli - Via Roma, 1r, 50123 Firenze FI

Il Mercato Centrale - Piazza del Mercato Centrale, Via dell'Ariento, 50123 Firenze FI

Vino Divino - (Neri is the name of the lovely owner) Via Taddea, 6, 50123 Firenze FI

Da' Vinattieri - Via Santa Margherita, 4/6r, 50122 Firenze FI

The leather school we mention is called Scuola del Cuoio - Via di S. Giuseppe, 5/R, 50122 Firenze FI

The roads Darcy mentioned with artisan and antique shops are Via Lambertesca, on the north side of the Arno, and Via Santo Spirito/Borgo San Frediano, on the south side of the Arno. As you walk over the Ponte Vecchio to the south you will end up on Via de' Guicciardini which is the road infant of the Pitti Palace, there are several great shops there as well and closer to the tourist attractions.

If you’re looking to book a hotel in Florence, we recommend the three below, mainly because of their location, but also for their 24-hour front desk. These are affiliate links, and while we don’t represent any of the companies listed, we do receive a small commission if you book a hotel through any of the links. 

FH55 Hotel Calzaiuoli: Expedia | Booking

Albergo Firenze: Expedia | Booking

Hotel La Scaletta Al Ponte Vecchio: Expedia | Booking

If you'd like to support the podcast, you can donate to us on Ko-fi (pronounced "coffee"), linked ⁠⁠⁠here⁠⁠⁠.

If you have any questions, you can find us on our ⁠website⁠⁠ or on ⁠Instagram⁠!

Thank you so much for listening!

xDarcy and Nathaniel

Trigger warning: In this episode, we talk about femicide, assault, women in the workplace, abortion, IVF, and adoption. We do our best to put trigger warnings where appropriate so you can skip ahead. If this episode isn't for you or if you're not in the headspace to listen, we completely understand!

This episode is a bit of a departure from our normal topics, but it's something we care deeply about: women's rights, equality, and access to healthcare. We also touch on another topic important to us, LGBTQ+ family's rights and healthcare. As we've said before, it feels irresponsible to encourage you all to visit and stay while only talking about the beautiful coast, rich history, and incredible food. We want to tell you the good and the bad.

You may notice that I (Darcy) say "uh" and "um" a lot in the beginning of this episode. I was fairly nervous to talk about these topics, because they are serious and heavy issues, unlike our typical lighthearted episodes. I hope it doesn't take you out of the episode and I appreciate your understanding!

If you are experiencing violence or stalking you can call 1522 where you can reach professionals who are trained to help victims of violence and stalking. They also have an online chat and app. This hotline is multilingual and available 24/7. If you are in an emergency call 122, which will connect you to an operator for police, ambulance, and fire (it's like the US's 911 or the UK's 999).

More resources:

Vita di Donne is a great resource for women's health. They have articles and further recourses for assistances well as a hotline as well as emergency numbers for the morning-after pill and gynecology services.

Artemisia Anti Violence Center has resources for women and children who have been or are experiencing abuse.

Arcigay is an overarching organization made up of 72 associations and committees across the country who fight for LGBTQ+ rights in Italy.

We'd love to hear from you! You can reach out to us on our website Only a Bag and on Instagram. If you would like to donate to us, you can do so at ⁠⁠ko-fi.com/onlyabag⁠.

Thank you all so much for listening!

In this episode we’ll tell you all you need to know about renting a car in Italy. "Do I need an international driver's permit? Should I rent a car for a wine tour? I can't drive manual, can I rent an automatic?" From personal experience and in-depth research we’ve got you covered from getting a permit, renting a car, road rules, and everything in-between. One thing we forgot to mention: "Which side of the road do they drive on in Italy?" in Italy, we drive on the right!

If you'd like to support Only A Bag, you can use our affiliate links to book your rental car through Booking.com and DiscoverCars.com.

And if you'd like to donate, you can do so at our Ko-fi (pronounced "coffee"), linked ⁠⁠here⁠⁠.

If you have any questions, you can find us on our ⁠website⁠⁠ or on ⁠Instagram⁠ and ⁠⁠Bluesky⁠!

Thanks so much for listening!