What a week on Everest! We had both regular and unique summits, some of which may have unintended consequences for years to come. On the other 8000ers, the season came to a close with a few inspiring stories. The action is not over quite yet, even with an impending storm threatening to close the Icefall early next week, but allowing the remaining Tibetan side teams to summit a deserted peak. A narrative on descending from the summit of Everest and returning home with lessons from the mountain. #everest2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/25/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-25-season-ending-soon/

Blustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 200. May 14th,  15th and 18th, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, we saw more Nepal side summits and the first commercial team summit on the Tibetan side.

Hundreds more are staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.

Meteorologists have told leaders to expect a decent weather window starting any day now. At least two climbers have died on the Nepal side, with more rescues or sick, abandoning their bids. In other words, a regular season on Mt. Everest. A narrative of going to the "Top of the World."

Estimates vary, but at least 129 people summited Everest today, May 18th, on both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, bringing the total to around 275, with 119 members supported by 156 Sherpas or support climbers. This results in a client-to-support ratio of 1:3. With an estimated 446 foreign permits issued by Nepal and a dropout rate of approximately 40%, there are likely around 150 clients or members remaining to summit on the Nepal side. Many are already staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news. #everest2025

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/18/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-18-summit-summits-and-preventable-deaths/

Summit, Forest, summit! With decent weather, climbers took full advantage of summiting four of the 8000ers, including the first Everest summits, with more teams on their way this season. One person attempted to set a speed record on Everest.

The fixed line is to the summit of Lhotse and the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest. 8K Expeditions did an excellent job of being dedicated and patient with high winds. With 456 Everest and 107 Lhotse permits issued, look for summits daily as the winds allow. And, a narrative on climbing to the South Col and preparing for the summit bid.Each weekend during the season,

I post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/11/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-11-summit-summits-and-more-summits/

The last few days of low winds have allowed the rope fixing teams to make excellent progress. The rope team from 8K Expeditions summited Lhotse this afternoon, May 8, 2025, marking the first summits of the year. A separate team from 8K will summit Everest tomorrow. This opens the season to the plethora of climbers already staged at Camp 2, just waiting for this event.

The Tibetan rope-fixing team has reached 7900 meters or higher on the Tibetan side. I anticipate they will summit over the weekend.

Also, a narrative on the anticipation of summiting. #everest2025

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/08/everest-2025-lhotse-summits-everest-soon-anticipation/

Poor weather is delaying getting the fixed ropes to Everest's summit on both sides but is looking better. The Nepal side Everest permits have reached 444, with more permits issued each day. EverestER has seen over 400 patients thus far. Some teams have completed their acclimatization protocols while others haven't started. An interesting season to be sure! Also a narrative on climbing From Camp 1 in the Western Cwm to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face.

Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news. #everest2025

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/04/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-4-waiting-on-the-ropes/

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Drone crash, Icefall collapse, ropes to Camp 3, and climbers tag Camp 2. 374 Everest permits thus far, but only 48 on the Tibet side. It's been a busy week on Everest.

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/27/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-27-on-the-move/

The 2025 season is well underway, and more teams arrive at Everest Base Camp each day. The Icefall Doctors have the fixed line to Camp 2, where 8K Expeditions will take over and fix the route to the summit. I expect them by early May. It's a tough job, to be sure. Also, a short narrative on the puja ceremony.

This may go down as the season of stunts, pleasing those who have called Everest a circus for years. Game on! #everest2025

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/20/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-basecamp-sprawl/

As I previously reported, two Sherpas lost their lives when struck by an avalanche on the 8000er, Annapurna, on April 7, 2025. Ngima Tashi and Rima Rinje were swept into a deep crevasse between Camps 2 and 3. Four days later, Sherpas located their bodies using RECCO reflective technology after several helicopter searches proved unsuccessful. Retrieval was not attempted due to the bodies being inside a deep crevasse and the ongoing avalanche danger.

In the Podcast are multiple still images from his climb, plus a video of the actual avalanche taken by John.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

#annapurna2025 #everest2025

It was a tough week in the Himalayas. We saw summits on two 8000ers, two Sherpas died, and the Icefall Doctors finally got the route to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall. Also, it feels like the early predictions of a record and crowded Nepal side are coming true, with more permits issued at this time than last year. #everest2025

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/13/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-icefall-in-summits-and-deaths/

Despite ominous weather and route conditions, various media reports have at least four climbers summiting Annapurna on Sunday, April 6, 2025. Early reports of disturbing conditions on Annapurna seem to be mirrored on Everest. The Kumbu is buzzing with activity, and the Icefall Doctors are struggling again this year to get the route through the Icefall. In other words, busy as usual in the mid-2020s. #everest2025

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/06/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-6-1st-8000er-summits/