Signs of trouble on K2 and Broad Peak. First is the weather. There have been more high winds and heavy snowfall, preventing the establishment of Camp 3 on K2 and keeping the Broad Peak climbers below Camp 3. And the other concern is the lack of cooperation among the teams, as noted by Polish climber, Lukas Supergan: "... This could be achieved by a large, combined team from agencies and independent climbers working together. However, such cooperation is completely lacking. Leaders keep their plans secret."
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/25/k2-2025-coverage-weather-stalls-plans-or-not/

Summits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One issue is that crows are eating food left at high camps! Tragically, one climber died last week on K2 from rockfall. Also, improvements are made for locals and visitors trekking the Baltoro Glacier. #K2025

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/20/k2-2025-coverage-death-summits-and-progress/

Teams are finally progressing across the four northernmost 8000-meter peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. Multiple teams report reaching as high as Camp 3 on these peaks, thus setting an optimistic tone for summits this season. 

Although rockfall remains a clear and present danger, leaders feel more comfortable after recent snowfalls. However, climbers still need to be thoughtful and cautious about avalanche danger, as shown by the rescue of a stranded and injured Polish climber. Today, I discussed the conditions with Garrett Madison, the founder of Madison Mountaineering, who has a team on K2 for a summit but also on a mountain trash clean-up mission.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/14/k2-2025-coverage-climbing-in-peril/

The Karakorum's drought continues due to the low snowfall from Spring combined with warmer-than-normal temperatures; thus, rockfall is a real danger on K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and the Gasherbrums. Ryan Mitchell and his K2 team are acclimatizing on a nearby unclimbed peak, hoping for snow in the next two weeks. They're doing well, but patience will be tested this year on all the mountains. I discussed the hot weather with meteorologist Chris Tomer.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/08/k2-2025-coverage-dry-hot-and-rockfall/

Teams are arriving at K2 Base Camp, but communications are limited, so not much information is coming out. We know that conditions are harsh, with high temperatures and low snow in the lower mountains. Given the absence of snow, climbers are concerned about rockfall this year.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/03/k2-2025-coverage-teams-at-bc-and-trekking-first-summits-2/

NOTE: This Podcast has extensive pictures so best viewed instead of listened to.

Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, has gained considerable recognition thanks to his impressive video documentation of his 2024 summit of Mt. Everest with Madison Mountaineering. Exciting news! He’s all set to leave for K2 on Saturday, June 21, 2025.

You may recall that in December 2022, Ryan contacted me for guidance and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2023. He was new to climbing, so I advised him that while many companies would happily take his money to get him to Everest, the better choice would be to wait at least a year to develop the skills and experience needed for a safe attempt on the world's highest peak. He took my advice to heart, worked hard, honed his skills on the volcanoes of Ecuador, then Denali, and Aconcagua, and ultimately performed magnificently on Everest.

Since then, he has moved from Massachusetts to the Seattle, Washington area, fully embracing the sport of mountaineering. He continues his success with a new YouTube channel where he shares his climbing adventures and prepares for his ascent of K2.

In this podcast, we discuss his training, why he chose K2, and walk through the stages of his exciting climb, using pictures from my 2014 climb as well as his training adventures. Also, I've added at the end my video documentary of my 2014 summit climb.

I know you will enjoy this.

You can follow him on his social media:

• Ryan Mitchell YouTube
• RyanMitchellUnfiltered 
• Instagram
• Website

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/17/k2-podcast-with-ryan-mitchell-preparing-for-k2/?preview=true

The 2025 Everest expedition has come to a close, marked by strong winds, drones, challenging climbing, and innovative strategies. Along the way were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity.

Not all was bad, and one climber stood out: a German alpinist, Anja Blacha, made a near-solo ascent (she summited the same day as 30 other people), unsupported, setting a record. This is something we often overlook in our fast-paced social media world. The overall summit count for both sides of Everest in 2025 is estimated to be around 846, including support climbers such as Sherpas, Tibetans, and Guides. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2025

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/11/everest-2025-season-summary/

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

What a week on Everest! We had both regular and unique summits, some of which may have unintended consequences for years to come. On the other 8000ers, the season came to a close with a few inspiring stories. The action is not over quite yet, even with an impending storm threatening to close the Icefall early next week, but allowing the remaining Tibetan side teams to summit a deserted peak. A narrative on descending from the summit of Everest and returning home with lessons from the mountain. #everest2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/25/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-25-season-ending-soon/

Blustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 200. May 14th,  15th and 18th, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, we saw more Nepal side summits and the first commercial team summit on the Tibetan side.

Hundreds more are staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.

Meteorologists have told leaders to expect a decent weather window starting any day now. At least two climbers have died on the Nepal side, with more rescues or sick, abandoning their bids. In other words, a regular season on Mt. Everest. A narrative of going to the "Top of the World."

Estimates vary, but at least 129 people summited Everest today, May 18th, on both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, bringing the total to around 275, with 119 members supported by 156 Sherpas or support climbers. This results in a client-to-support ratio of 1:3. With an estimated 446 foreign permits issued by Nepal and a dropout rate of approximately 40%, there are likely around 150 clients or members remaining to summit on the Nepal side. Many are already staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news. #everest2025

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/18/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-18-summit-summits-and-preventable-deaths/

Summit, Forest, summit! With decent weather, climbers took full advantage of summiting four of the 8000ers, including the first Everest summits, with more teams on their way this season. One person attempted to set a speed record on Everest.

The fixed line is to the summit of Lhotse and the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest. 8K Expeditions did an excellent job of being dedicated and patient with high winds. With 456 Everest and 107 Lhotse permits issued, look for summits daily as the winds allow. And, a narrative on climbing to the South Col and preparing for the summit bid.Each weekend during the season,

I post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/11/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-11-summit-summits-and-more-summits/