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With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their summit. While the major impact of the jet stream has passed, fragments could still create bitter windchill and frostbite, so climbers will need to be prepared to bail if the jet stream suddenly returns.

The Everest summits for the season total is around 86, with 54 Sherpas and 32 clients.  The ratio is skewed by the large rope team, entirely comprised of Sherpas. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/17/everest-2026-may-17-weekend-update-climbers-to-the-summit/

The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the summit as the lines get there. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. A Sherpa died in the Icefall. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest.

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AlanMemories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/10/everest-2026-may-10-weekend-update-ropes-to-south-col-everest-death/

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. Sherpas have established Camp 2, also known as Advanced Base Camp, with tents and other supplies. They will begin stocking it with an oxygen bottle soon.

Teams have started their acclimatization rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The ropes are expected to reach the summit around May 14th.

Everest permits are nearing 2024's record of 479, generating nearly $7 million in permit revenue alone.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

We may finally see how climate change has impacted climbing Mt. Everest: melting seracs threatening climbers, and helicopters used to bypass the icefall.

First, let's clarify that the Icefeall is not blocked and is passable. The issue is a large, unstable hanging serac that, if it fell onto the Icefall with climbers there, dozens could be killed, making it much worse than the 16 taken in a similar event in 2014. There are conflicting reports about a route to Camp 1. But others say it's still too dangerous because of rockfall, and the ice serac in question remains.There are 410 Everest permits issued, so with 1.5 Sherpas per permit and 0.2 cooks, there are around 1,200 people at EBC, by my estimation. I've seen other reports with three times that many. #everest2026

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/27/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in/

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/19/everest-2026-april-19-weekend-update-8000er-summits-icefall-woes

Teahouses are buzzing, the trails are full, the yaks are loaded–as are the porters bearing unbelievable loads. Yes, the Khumbu is alive. But the weather is poor for some of the 8000ers.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/12/everest-2026-april-12-weekend-update-the-khumbu-is-alive/

In this weekend update, I cover a lot of ground, primarily around misinformation regarding "Everest Guides Poisoning Clients" - FALSE. The actual issue is a large-scale insurance fraud scheme targeting trekkers (not climbers) across Nepal's trekking circuits, involving fake helicopter evacuations and hospital stays.

Additionally, Global Rescue will not provide longline rescues above Camp 2 this year due to a lack of qualified pilots, which will fundamentally change expectations for climber safety.  We also look at heavy snow delaying summits on Annapurna and, of course, a status update on Ryan Mitchell.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/05/everest-2026-april-5-weekend-update-debunking-poison-rumors/

After recording a powerful podcast with Lainie Holcomb and Dr. Tammy Awtry of the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund, I was reminded that while meaningful progress has been made in understanding, detecting, and slowing Alzheimer’s, we are still far from a cure.

This mission is deeply personal—sparked by my mother’s diagnosis in 2006—and has driven nearly two decades of climbing and fundraising to support research where every dollar goes directly to finding solutions.

Today, breakthroughs like early detection, new treatments, and innovative research models offer real hope, but continued funding is critical; that’s why I’m asking for your help now, and I’ll match the first 50 donations to amplify our collective impact in the fight to end this disease. #alzheimer's #Curealz

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03/31/podcast-memories-are-everything-why-alzheimers-research-needs-us-now/

Everest Base Camp is taking shape as two more of Nepal's eight 8,000-meter peaks see climbers arriving at their bases. This year, there are several interesting climbers to watch beyond the hundreds of aspirants on commercial teams. Remember, China closed climbing on its three 8,000ers—Everest, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma—throughout all of spring.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03/26/everest-2026-climbers-to-watch-this-season/

The backbone of every Everest season on the Nepali side are the Icefall Doctors, a team of highly skilled Sherpas who establish the climbing route and set the thin nylon safety rope from Base Camp to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm.Today, they left Namache Bazaar for EBC, where they will receive refresher training under the watchful eyes of the Kuhumbu Climbing Center teachers. Next, they will use drones to scout the route and, around March 16, begin the laborious task of setting ice screws, pickets, v-threads, and other techniques to attach the rope to the moving ice. And of course, there are the ladders that are hauled to deep, open crevasses, thus providing passage for the thousands of trips through the Icefall this season. In the Podcast, I introduce the season and review some of my background posts on costs, total summits and deaths, route figures, and more. #everest2026

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03/01/everest-2026-icefall-doctors-launched/