The Smart RVer: DIY RV Maintenance and Repair

Purchasing a used RV, Travel Trailer or 5th Wheel etc…In episode 49 I explain why it is so important to thoroughly check out an RV before purchasing regardless of how good the deal might seam to be.

There are many things to check out – there are companies that provide this service -They might be pricey.

I am bringing this up because I hear of so many RV’ers buying used RV's and they miss so many problems that cost extra money and sometimes even sour the entire purchase. Dry rot, torn awning fabrics, broken steps, bad wiring etc…

You may need to segment the RV purchase inspection into 4 main categories. You also need to be a detective and find the problems before you shell out your hard-earned cash. When you’re done with your inspection every square inch of the RV should have been inspected and be in your head.

The 4 Segments or Sections:

1) The Roof - Inspect every item on the roof including seams, vents, the roof it self etc...

2) The underside - This would include all of the chassis components, holding tanks, plumbing, electrical, the underside of the floor, frame etc... With a Motorhome you might want to have the chassis inspected by a professional only after you have you have inspected everything else and it meets your expectations. Why, because the inspection will cost money

3) The 4 exterior side walls, 2 sides and the front and rear - Check all of the lights for operation, paint, decals, exterior finish, screw cover, check trim and windows for leaks, awnings, compartment doors, hatches, locks & Keys etc...

4) The interior - It might be easier to segment the interior by rooms. Check that the stove, microwave, AC, furnace & water heater are operational. Check lights, converter, all plumbing and related items etc...

If you categorize it the inspection it might not seem so daunting. Many people just eyeball everything and take the word of the seller that everything is okay. Some sellers might really not know about a problem where as, some might be trying to hide it.

Bring a note pad, have someone take notes if possible. Take pictures of visible problems to review later on and possibly get quotes to repair. Don’t be in hurry to by any RV no matter how good the deal is, there is always another deal.

Older RV’s lets say 1995 and older might be pristine but, sometimes they will fall apart when you start to use everything. I am not saying to ignore them, just consider there might still be an extra expense. If the RV is super clean that could indicate someone took very good care of it. A few extra minor expenses might be worth it.

The lesson here is to take your time and thoroughly check every thing that you possibly can before making the purchase. You might be surprised what you find and how much it costs.

If your hands are clean, you’re not having fun……..

The post Buying a Used RV – Avoid the Pitfalls appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

Hopkins Levelers

Hopkins Level System

Valterra Stackers

Valterra Stabilizer Pads

Super Dolly RV Pads

In Episode 48 I dig into stabilizing pads for Trailers and Fifth Wheels and the difference between Plastic and Wood Pads for placing underneath the stabilizer legs. I don't get into Motorhome leveling systems or the type pads they would use. I believe in using plastic leveling pads instead of wood. Plastic is clean and splinter free. Plastic is easier to clean and usually is lighter in weight and sometimes just easier to maintain and handle. It might seem that plastic will be more expensive and it could be but, wood is not very cheap these days and you will probably be cutting and carrying more than you actually need. I think you should Buy Plastic pads and be done with it!

When leveling a trailer you always want to use pads or blocks that are wider than the tires, otherwise the tire could be damaged. Trailer tires are fragile in some ways and an excess of tire hanging over the edge of a pad or block is not what the tire was designed to do.

The brands I recommend are Hopkins, Valterra, Super Dolly and Camco. Each brand does it a little bit different. You might to do a little shopping at your local RV Store and decide which pads or system will work best for you.

Listen Now to get all of the details.

The post Leveling Trailers and Fifth Wheels appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

Today in Episode 47 I get into the basic leveling for 5th Wheel Trailers and Travel Trailers. Most trailers come with 4 stabilizers, one in each corner of the trailer. Fifth Wheels will usually have a stabilizer in each rear corner and the landing gear in the front of the trailer. The stabilizers are for stabilizing the trailer prior to leveling it. They are not designed for lifting the trailer, they capable of holding the weight of the trailer.

I get into the finer details of stabilizers, such as, the different types and how they can and should be used. In episode 48 I go into the details of Leveling a trailer without automatic leveling systems. There is nothing real tricky in doing this, it just more common sense and understanding how stabilizers work and what they are meant for.

It is also a good practice to use stabilizer pads under the foot of the stabilizer so the foot doesn't sink into the ground. The pads also help keep the trailer level because the feet of the stabilizers are not shifting in the soil.

Listen Now to the Entire Episode!

The post Stabilizing for 5th Wheels and Travel Trailers appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

In Episode 46 I try to untangle some of the confusion when replacing your RV Sewer Hose. The reason why the title of the podcast uses the word Untangle is due to the confusion that can happen when you go into an RV Parts Store. As you gaze in amazement down aisle with 2-5 different brands of sewer hoses. It can look a little overwhelming trying to determine what does what and how do you get there from here. While trying not to throw your money away.

At the end of the day, most RV Sewer Hoses connect the same way on all RV's (Trailers etc...) and the same is true for most campgrounds. On most RV's the fittings twist on at the sewer valve. In the majority of campground the fittings screw in or the fitting is designed to slip into the fitting in the ground. This is true the majority of the time although, there a few exceptions. One exception would be an older park with obscure ground fittings. The other would be the RV sewer hose connection has been modified to something out of the norm. Where is the confusion then?

The confusion lies at the RV Parts Store. This is no fault of the store nor of the sewer hose manufacturers. It is because the store is stocking more than one brand and style of sewer hose. The key is to focus on one brand and determine the different types of sewer hoses that are offered. For example, Valterra is a brand that makes sewer hoses and they have several models of sewer hoses to choose from. They have Viper, Silverback, Dominator and Ez Coupler. All of these are sewer hose kits that essentially do the same thing.

The main difference is the thickness of the hose and if the hose has protective rings to help keep the hose from becoming damaged if it is drug on rough surfaces. Typically, you aren't going to mix and match sewer hoses, that would defeat the point of buying a quality hose. If you choose Valterra as the brand, then you would want to choose one of their models. Valterra is my brand of choice!

Each store will probably stock more of the brand they prefer and that might make your decision easier. Buy what they recommend if it makes sense. The major Brands are Valterra, Camco, Thetford, Prest O Fit and Duraflex. Prest O Fit was probably the first to provide sewer hose kits that made sense. All of them make good products and in some cases are very similar in quality. It can be a lot easier to make the purchase in an RV Store because you can touch and feel the hoses and get some expert advice. Also, if you need a special fitting to get your connections completed it might be easier to find it in an RV Store.

Episode 46 goes into greater detail on each brand and how to make a better decision when purchasing a sewer hose kit. Listen to the Entire Episode Now!

Valterra Sewer Hoses

Prest O Fit Sewer Hoses

Camco Sewer Hoses

Thetford Sewer Hoses

The post ↓Episode 46- Untangling the Sewer Hose Confusion appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

↓ When it comes to maintaining your RV Black Water Holding Tank, there are many opinions out there. In Episode 45, I give a little history lesson on Holding Tank Chemicals and how they have evolved and made their way onto the shelves of an RV Store near you. More importantly, though, is which Holding Tank Chemical (Product) should you choose and what you should expect.

One point I need to clarify before I start to ramble on. I go back and forth between the terms Chemical and Product because, in today's world, not everything we put in our Holding Tanks can be called a chemical. Many products are not chemical-based products! They can be considered safe for the environment. Some products are safer than others, and that is part of the debate when it comes time to empty the Black Water Tank.

When choosing a Holding Tank Product, there are 4 objectives that you should try to accomplish. All 4 objectives should be considered equally important when that wonderful time comes to empty it!

1) The Toilet Paper Should be broken down.

2) The Solids should be broken down.

3) The Sensors should be clean and working.

4) The tank itself should be clean with little or no residual buildup.

Not all toilet paper breaks down or liquefies when soaked in a bath of human waste or in plain water. In the past, we sold a Toilet Paper that was so cheap we could sell 6 rolls for a buck! It was also biodegradable and worked well in RV Holding Tanks. My Dad's sales pitch was really simple when someone asked if you could use it in an RV? He would reply "It works so good it melts in your hands". He just said, "What do you expect for a buck?" During the winter season, we would sell 500 rolls a day; it was quite a lead to get people in the store. Back to reality now!

Even though RV Toilet is a little spendy, it is the paper you really want to use in your tank; it breaks down more easily than residential Toilet Paper. When you couple RV Toilet Paper with a holding tank product designed to break down waste, you can't go wrong.

The solids can either be preserved or broken down, depending on the Chemical/Product that you use. Thetford AquaKem Blue is a formaldehyde-based product that works well to mask odors. It is not effective at breaking down solids or toilet paper within the required time in an RV Holding Tank. A Bacterial Enzyme product, such as Pure Power Blue, is ideal for breaking down solids and toilet paper quickly.

I need to confess that I was formerly the President of OP Products, the manufacturer of Pure Power Green and Blue. With that said I very familiar with and tested most of the products on the market and I am pro Pure Power because it really works. My brothers and I launched Pure Power at a time when it was almost impossible to get a new Holding Tank Product into a store, let alone into the distribution channels. We broke through not because of our spectacular sales pitches, but because of the quality of Pure Power, and it worked as we said, and at that time, there was no other product like it. If you find a similar product and it works, by all means, continue to use it. I am just using Pure Power as an example of a product that I know firsthand that works.

The Sensors for the Holding Tank Gauges can be a real pain when they aren't working properly. Quite often, they are inaccurate due to Waste and/or Toilet Paper hung on them. When you use a product designed to break down the waste and liquefy toilet paper, it will naturally clean the sensors. If you use such a product, you should have well-functioning sensors most of the time.

I want to emphasize "most of the time", these are not sensors that are used on the space shuttle. These are made by the RV Industry, and bless their hearts for trying to get it right. Pure Power is the product that I recommend for ongoing Sensor Maintenance. If you experience serious issues, you can try Sensor Power as a proven solution. It uses specialized cleaning agents to give the sensors a Deep Cleaning.

The tank should be free of side-wall buildup after it is emptied and flushed. This will help prevent future odors caused by a dirty tank. It is obviously hard to peek inside your holding tank to see what is going on, and that is where a reliable Holding Tank Product comes in. If you continue to have odors and sensor problems,s you might need to change flavors.

If you accomplish these four steps in maintaining your RV Holding Tank, you will be, as they say, "A Happy Camper"! For more details and holding tank tips, listen to the full episode.

↓Listen Now!

The post ↓Episode 45 – The What and How to Maintain Your Black Water Tank appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

↓There can be a fair amount of confusion about the best way to store an RV Battery during the off season. In this episode I break it down to simplify the process and make some nice product recommendations along the way. In most scenarios the RV’er is storing his battery during the cold winter months and typically not during the hot summer months. The methods can adapted to either situation, hot or cold. The summer heat can damage a battery as much as poorly stored battery during the cold months.

↓The bottom line is to keep the battery case and posts clean and keeping the battery properly charged during the storage process . If your battery is going to be stored in the RV during the winter months you will want to make sure that it has a full charge and this will prevent it from freezing. Some have said that an RV Battery will freeze if left in the RV during storage and that is not true unless the temperature drops way below Zero.

↓If you decide to store the battery in the RV, make sure the battery is disconnected from any electrical source that good drain the battery during storage. It might just be best to physically disconnect the battery cables altogether. If you are unsure of how to hook the battery cables up later then you could take a picture or draw a diagram. It is important that battery gets hooked up the same way it was connected was, assuming it was correct to begin with.

↓I would opt to store the battery in a garage or some place that has power to run a Trickle Charger. The stored battery should be fully charged prior to storage and then the charge should be maintain during the storage period. Today there are plenty of Hi Tech battery chargers available and I recommend to purchase a battery charger that will go into float mode after the battery is charged. If your charger has this capability your can leave it hooked up to the battery and plugged in for the off season with no harm being caused to the battery.

↓It is best to store the RV Battery away from any source away from sparks or open flames. Although today’s batteries can be stored on a concrete floor it is best to store it on a piece of wood, work bench or similar. Make sure the surface is protected if it is a nice surface you care about. It is pretty simple to store a battery for the off season.

I recommend Battery Tender and Noco battery chargers to maintain All of your Batteries. Click here for more information about both brands and to purchase from Amazon.

Bonus Content: The below content was briefly explained in the podcast. You can consider this some bonus content if you are thinking about changing to a different battery type.

Gel Cell vs. AGM (glass mat) batteries. 

What Is A Gel Battery?

Before you can determine the pros and cons of a gel battery and how they will affect you, it’s important to understand what exactly a gel battery is. A gel battery is very similar to a traditional lead-acid battery with the addition of silica to the electrolyte to create the gel like substance. This thickening of the electrolyte means that gel batteries can be installed in a variety of positions and don’t emit as many fumes.

Pro Tip: This allows for gel batteries to be used in applications where ventilation is limited.

How Does It Work?

A gel battery (often referred to as a gel cell battery) is a lead-acid battery that is valve regulated. When the electrolyte is mixed with sulphuric acid and silica, it becomes a relatively stationary gel substance. This gel mixture allows the battery to utilize the acid and electrolyte in the same way it would with a traditional lead-acid battery, just without the added maintenance.

The Pros:

Maintenance Free: Because the batteries are comprised of gel instead of liquid, there is little to no maintenance to keep the battery working properly.

No Leaks: Even though wet cell batteries are sealed in a plastic encasement there is still the chance that it will leak. Gel batteries are also sealed but with a valve that removes excess pressure. This means that between the gel substance and the removal of pressure, there is nowhere for the mixture to go.

Install Them Anywhere: Gel batteries have the advantage of being able to be used in virtually any position, because they don’t leak and are generally maintenance free. This greatly increases the number of applications gel batteries can be used for.

Minimal Risk: When damage occurs to a traditional lead-acid battery you are faced with a massive and dangerous clean up (not to mention the impact on anything the battery acid may come into contact with during the process). Gel batteries will not leak out if the casing becomes damaged, so there is a reduced risk of harm coming to the equipment and clean up hazards.

Vibration Resistant: One of the biggest complaints with wet cell batteries is that they are very susceptible to extreme vibration and other impacts. Gel batteries absorb the impact and vibrations, making them great batteries for items such as four wheelers.

No Fumes: Because these batteries are comprised of a gel substance there are minimal fumes created as a result of use. This means that there is a reduced need for ventilation which increases the potential applications gel batteries can be used for, as well as making them easier to charge anywhere.

Resistant To Discharge Death: When using a wet cell battery it’s important that you don’t allow the battery to discharge too much. Otherwise, it will never recharge. Gel cell batteries aren’t that way. They are deep cycle batteries  which means that they can discharge more and still be recharged like new.

The Cons:

The Price: While the benefits of a gel battery are pretty hefty, so is the price tag. Many people looking to switch from wet cell to gel batteries see this as the biggest drawback.

Charging Challenged: When charging your gel battery, you’ll want to plan on giving it extra time. Slow charging cycles are pretty common with these batteries, but you can’t walk away and leave it. Because it’s a gel instead of a liquid you’ll need to take it off the charger as soon as it’s complete. To leave it on could cause voids with the electrolyte which is irreversible damage.

Heat Control: This is truly a drawback with most batteries and gel cell batteries are no exception. Heat is one of the fastest ways to cut the lifespan of your battery short. By controlling the batteries exposure to heat, you can lengthen the life cycle and keep your battery running like new.

Pros and Cons provide by Northeast Battery.

What is an AGM Battery? AGM technology became popular in the early 1980s as a sealed lead acid battery for military aircraft, vehicles and UPS to reduce weight and improve reliability. The sulfuric acid is absorbed by a very fine fiberglass mat, making the battery spill-proof. This enables shipment without hazardous material restrictions. The plates can be made flat to resemble a standard flooded lead acid pack in a rectangular case; they can also be wound into a cylindrical cell.

AGM has very low internal resistance, is capable to deliver high currents on demand and offers a relatively long service life, even when deep cycled. AGM is maintenance free, provides good electrical reliability and is lighter than the flooded lead acid type. While regular lead acid batteries need a topping charge every six months to prevent the buildup of sulfation, AGM batteries are less prone to sulfation and can sit in storage for longer before a charge becomes necessary. The battery stands up well to low temperatures and has a low self-discharge.

The leading advantages of AGM are a charge that is up to five times faster than the flooded version, and the ability to deep cycle. AGM offers a depth-of-discharge of 80 percent; the flooded, on the other hand, is specified at 50 percent DoD to attain the same cycle life. The negatives are slightly lower specific energy and higher manufacturing costs than the flooded, but cheaper than the gel battery.

Most AGM batteries are mid-sized and range from 30 to 100Ah. They can also be found in UPS, big and small for stationary and deep cycle use. They are commonly built to size and are found in high-end vehicles to run power-hungry accessories such as heated seats, steering wheels, mirrors and windshields. NASCAR and other auto racing leagues choose AGM products because they are vibration resistant.

AGM is the preferred battery for upscale motorcycles. Being sealed, AGM reduces acid spilling in an accident, lowers the weight for the same performance and allows installation at odd angles. Because of good performance at cold temperatures, AGM batteries are also used for marine, motor home and robotic applications.

AGM is making inroads into the start-stop function of cars. The classic flooded type is simply not robust enough and repeated cycling causes a sharp capacity fade after only two years of use. (See BU-806a: Heat, Loading and Battery Life.)

As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive. (See BU-403: Charging Lead Acid.)

AGM and other sealed batteries do not like heat and should be installed away from the engine compartment. Manufacturers recommend halting charge if the battery core reaches 49°C (120°F). Table 1 spells out the advantages and limitations of AGM.

Pros:

Spill-proof through acid encapsulation in matting technology

High specific power, low internal resistance, responsive to load

Up to 5 times faster charge than with flooded technology

Better cycle life than with flooded systems

Water retention (oxygen and hydrogen combine to produce water)

Vibration resistance due to sandwich construction

Stands up well to cold temperature

Less prone to sulfation if not regularly topping charged

Has less electrolyte and lead than the flooded version

Cons:

Higher manufacturing cost than flooded

Sensitive to overcharging (AGM has tighter tolerances than gel)

Capacity has gradual decline (gel has a performance dome)

Low specific energy

Must be stored in charged condition (less critical than flooded

Here is what I think!

Unless you have a specific need for a Gel Cell or AGM Battey I would probably sick with a regular old flooded battery. You can get them anywhere and they are a few bucks cheaper and as you read, easier to maintain. I would go with Interstate Batteries as well.

The post ↓Episode 44 – RV Deep Cycle Battery Storage appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

In Episode 43 I break down purchasing either an Adco or Classic RV Cover for storing your RV, Travel Trailer or Fifth Wheel in challenging climates. I am only going to spend time talking about Adco and Classic RV covers because they are mainly in the RV Cover business and have great reputations. I have sold other covers and at the end of the day I always default back to Adco and Classic.

After being in Arizona for many years I came to the conclusion an RV Cover whether it is for a travel trailer or motorhome will quite often only last for one summer due to the constant heavy winds. The wind, not the sun, tears them apart before the summer is over. Even if all of the edges and corners of the RV were protected the covers just did not last. I finally stopped selling them. That is, I gave a strong warning about how long they would last and for the most part talked the RV owner out of buying a cover that would probably only last one summer.

If you are thinking that there are other brands of RV Covers you are right and I do explain that point and add an explanation why I am focusing on just Adco and Classic RV Covers. Besides being in the cover business they are the 2 brands that have been sold predominantly in most RV parts and accessory stores for decades. They are very well known! I have sold other brands and stopped selling them because of the tremendous amount of problems our customers experienced and the headaches that came along with so called “Problem Free Warranties”.

I talked with Adco and they were very helpful in answering questions about their products. Adco recommends the All Climate Wind Series with Tyvek as the go to cover. They recommended it for all climates excluding windy areas. For windy ares, specifically Arizona they recommended a custom cover made of Sunbrella fabric. They are custom made for your RV and can get a little pricey compared to their other covers. I did not spend much time talking about the custom covers. Adco offers a 2 year warranty on the All Climate Wind Series with Tyvek covers. The two year warranty is a decent warranty as long the cover does not tear in that time. The two year warranty offers a one time cover replacement and free patch kits to repair any tears provided that they are repairable by the RV owner.

Adco & Classic both emphasized the importance of measuring correctly and buying the right cover at the outset. To measure properly you should include ladders, bumpers, spare tire covers, etc… Do not go by the size the dealer told you when you bought the RV, get some exercise and do the measuring yourself. Your size options will be broke down to size ranges. Your RV will fall into a size range that could have some extra length to or fit a little snug. The covers are adjustable to take up some of the extra material if it is a little large.

Classic RV Covers are very proud of their PermaPRO Deluxe RV Covers and it sounds like they should be. They too clam that it is ideal for all climates other than windy ares such as Arizona. They offer a Limited Lifetime Warranty and they deal directly with you about any warranty issues that may occur. They will replace the cover if needed and they also offer patch kits for minor tears. Classic boasts about their warranty and the customer service experience as being the best and I would say that they are excited about their product and warranty. Classic also offers the new SkyShield Plus RV cover with a Tyvek roof section similiar to Adco’s All Climate Wind Series with Tyvek except the 4 year warranty period is twice as longer with the Classic SkyShield Plus. Classic speaks very highly off the rip stop material used in their covers and reassures that small tears stay small if taken care of in a timely manner.

I personally will stick with these 2 brands because they both have very similar strengths and weaknesses. I believe they both will perform as stated by the Adco and Classic and if the RV is prepped properly before putting the cover on for storage they should hold for years to come. Just keep in mind that the Wind and improper measurements and usage will shorten the life of any RV Cover. Make this purchase count!

Please listen to the full Episode for more useful information.

BTW: The best deals for Adco RV Covers are to be found on Amazon. I have included links to purchase them on our Blog page. Click here to Purchase from Amazon at Down & Dirty Prices with FREE Shipping.

Classic RV Covers are very Sparse on Amazon – Call us @ 800-789-5588 to get Down & Dirty Prices with FREE Shipping!

The post ↓Episode 43 – Adco and Classic RV Storage Covers appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

In Episode 42 I discuss the 4 Major Brands of RV Power Converters that are commonly found in most RV’s providing power to the RV’s 12 volt system. This an interesting topic due to the similariteis of each power converter. Also, all 4 brands boast great products, excellent customer service and a very small defective/return rate. I have neglected to mention the

4 brands by name; Progressive Dynamics (PD), WFCO (woofco), Iota and Parallax. They are not named in order other than this is how I listed them for this article. I certainly gained an equal amount of respect for each brand and walked away knowing each one has a place in the RV Industry.

I am asked questions almost daily about RV Power Converters and which one should be used to replace one that has bitten the dust. I have to say I almost always recommend a Progressive Dynamics converter because I keep them in stock at all times. That might sound like that is my “go to converter” because of quality! That is not necessarily the case, I love their Retail Packaging! I do see more Progressive Dynamics Converters than any other brand for what that is worth. There could be a few reasons that make that happen.

I spoke to technicians at each company and asked questions about the life of the product and what makes theirs the best. By the way, each company thinks there converter is the best. Another interesting and well appreciated point is that there was no bashing of the competition and that in itself speaks volumes about the employees and their perspective companies. In the episode I get into greater detail about each brand such as, Iota’s are repairable in some cases. Although that is not always the case it is a possibility. It might not be worth the expense and the time spent without a power converter.

WFCO is very proud to boast that they have a strong presence on the assembly line floor at many factories where RV’s are made. This is worthy of mention because they are there to make sure their converters are installed properly and with the proper amp rating to take care of the job. They truly believe in making the customers experience the best it can be. That makes itself evident with the technical and diagnostic information available on their website.

Parallax has been around along time and they certainly have built some really good products over the years and their RV Power Centers/Converters certainly have stood the test of time. Power Centers are visible in the RV and contain the circuit breakers and fuse panel above what is called the “Lower Section” of the power center. The lower section is the converter and Parallax has built a quality product and it has been a preferred power center by the RV Manufacturers.

All in all I have to say that each brand has put their unique spin on options and cleverly giving the options a unique name to drawing the RV’er into purchasing their Power Converter. Do they all do the same thing? For the most part yes! They just do it a little different. Below you will find links that will give you descriptions of each product so you can compare the differences. In most situations if you need to replace your converter you could replace it with same model and not have to worry about a thing. They are all good!

Listen to the Full Episode Now!

Here is the Short List of the more popular Models:

Progressive Dynamics:

PD9100 Series: 30 Amp, 40 Amp, 45 Amp, 60 Amp, 78 Amp & 80 Amp

PD9200 Series: 45 Amp, 60 Amp, 70 Amp & 80 Amp

Iota Power Converters:

DLS Series: 15 Amp, 30 Amp, 45 Amp, 75 Amp & 90 Amp

DLS-X Series: 15 Amp, 30 Amp, 45 Amp, 75 Amp & 90 Amp

WFCO Power Converters:

WF- 9800 Series: 35 Amp, 45 Amp, 55 Amp, 65 Amp, 75 Amp

Parallax Power Converters:

5300 Series: 55 Amp, 65 Amp & 75 Amp

7100 Series: 55 Amp

Check Out all the Converters here and Get FREE Shipping!

The post ↓Episode 42 – How to Choose an RV Power Converter appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

Episode 41 – This episode is about simple repairs that can keep your vacation on track. I recap some of the recent conversations I have had with customers about certain maintenance items that can ruin a trip if not taken care of. We are in fire season in many parts of the country and rather than be surprised by smoke and fire plan ahead but, do not cancel your trip, just go elsewhere. I once again urge everyone to get organized when it comes to parts and items that need to be replaced on the RV. There are several apps that work with PC’s, Mac’s and portable devices.

The post ↓Episode 41 – Everyday Minor Repairs that can Ruin A Trip appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.

Episode 40 – I cover some ground on the move to Montana and explain why I bought so many new tires for the move. My Toy Hauler tires just made it to the tire shop 10 miles from my house. The Utility trailer tires didn’t make it out of driveway. There were lot of things happening during the move and I wanted make sure I had little or no problems on the highway with any of our trailers and vehicles. My focus was going 1200 miles without a break down. And we did make to Victor without any major issues. That really is not a surprise considering I do maintain my vehicles. I also had to make a 22″ escape hatch lid out of scrap aluminum before we hit the road due to mine (Ventline) no longer being available. I preferred not to replace the entire escape hatch so I wouldn’t ruin the seal on the roof. It worked just fine without any leaks on the road and in the heavy rains after we arrived.

There are a lot of concerns that might run through your mind while you are traveling and I certainly had mine. Although I thought about many things that could go wrong I already had my mind made up that I would push through whatever came up.

Listen to Episode 40 Now!

The post ↓Episode 40 – The Move to Montana and Some Lessons Learned appeared first on Radio Arizona RV.