âYou donât stop surfing when you get old. You get old when you stop surfing.â
But if you spend enough time online, youâll meet surfers who think calling it quits at 54 is not just normalâbut wise. Travesty.
In this episode, we dive into the relationship between age and surfing. From 7-year-olds casually surfing Pipeline to grown adults wondering if itâs too late to start, weâre unpacking the myths, expectations, and very real feelings around progress, fear, and what it means to be a surfer at any stage.
Spoiler: Itâs not about how big the wave is. Itâs about how big you smile riding it.