With one small, clever—and now-trademark—idea in 1990, the chef Thomas Keller turned not only the notion of the ice-cream cone on its head, but the fine-dining world, too. Now, 35 years later, his hospitality group comprises 10 restaurants, including The French Laundry in Yountville, California, and Per Se in New York City—both of them three-Michelin-starred—as well as Bouchon Bistro and Bouchon Bakery in Las Vegas and The Surf Club Restaurant in Miami. Across his entire hospitality operation, a highly refined, expertly tuned set of standards feeds his “one-guest-at-a-time” philosophy and culture. In many respects, Keller was at the forefront of a local-focused cooking movement. He was also a pioneer in making fine dining more relaxed and approachable—and decidedly less fussy. The food world today would not be the same were it not for his wide-spanning influence.

On the episode, Keller reflects on how it took two decades of failing and learning from mistakes before at last, in 1994, he opened The French Laundry, which instantly received rave reviews and remains one of the most celebrated restaurants in the world. He also discusses his recent Chef’s Table episode on Netflix and his cameo on the FX show The Bear, memory-making as a key part of his operation, and why persistence is the greatest form of pleasure.

Special thanks to our Season 11 presenting sponsor, Van Cleef & Arpels.

Show notes:

Thomas Keller

[4:57] “Chef’s Table: Legends” (2025)

[4:57] The French Laundry

[4:57] Per Se

[7:24] Grant Achatz

[7:24] Bobby Flay

[7:24] Tom Colicchio

[7:24] Emeril Lagasse

[7:24] Le Pavillon

[10:13] “The Bear”: Season 3, Episode 10 (2024)

[10:13] Christopher Storer

[10:13] “Sense of Urgency” (2013)

[10:13] Hans Zimmer

[10:13] Bouchon Bistro

[10:13] “Thomas Keller’s Roasted Chicken” (2020)

[17:26] “Chef Thomas Keller on Finding Professional Success After 40” (2022)

[23:55] “The French Laundry Cookbook” (1999)

[25:57] Daniel Boulud

[28:24] Graham Kerr

[28:24] “The Galloping Gourmet” (1968)

[32:27] Roland Henin

[33:47] Florence Fabricant

[33:47] “Food; Flights of Fancy” (1988)

[33:47] “Checkers Has Lost Its Chef” (1992)

[38:08] “Sally Schmitt, Trend-Setting Restaurateur, Is Dead at 90”

[40:12] The French Laundry Kitchen

[40:12] Snøhetta

[40:12] “Thomas Keller, an Exacting Chef at a Crossroads”

[48:47] “The Reach of a Restaurant” TED Talk

[48:47] “The French Laundry, Per Se” (2020)