Welcome to ‘Shift Meal,’ a video podcast from The Ringer in which host Danny Chau shares a bite and chops it up with chefs and restaurant people during their off hours. Together, they explore origin stories and histories (both personal and cultural) that inform some of the best food in the country.

This time around, we’re seeking answers hidden behind smoke. As surprising as it sounds, Los Angeles is in the midst of a barbecue renaissance. But in a city of transplants and converging global influences, what exactly is L.A. barbecue, anyway? Four different voices offer their perspective.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices