When I was a teenager, I remember opening an issue of SURFER magazine and reading an article about a Mexican pro surfer who, at the peak of his career, walked away from it all and moved to Finland. Finland! I didn’t know Kalle Carranza then, but the rarity of his story was memorable. Once the ocean grabs us, it rarely lets go. So why oh why, I wondered for years, did Carranza trade boardshorts for beanies and start from scratch? If you listen to this podcast often, you’ve probably heard me rail on about the problems with social media. I view it as a kind of psychological cement, hardening our identities and slowly turning us into one-dimensional versions of ourselves. (The result is a lot of 44-year-olds who still act like they’re 24.) The more we are willing to try new things and look like fools, the more interesting life becomes. And Carranza is one interesting dude. So, when I was in Costa Rica this past month and finally met Kalle Carranza, I sat down with him to hear his story in its entirety: First Mexican to be on the cover of SURFER magazine, sober, and now, after a life of travel, is back in his hometown of Sayulita, Mexico with a wife and kids.

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