August 01, 2025

A Slow Traveler's Guide to Korea's (Second) Busiest City

21 minutes

Welcome to Unpacked, Five Questions, a podcast that takes you behind the scenes of one great travel story.

In this episode, host Katherine LaGrave sits down with New York Times bestselling author and Afar contributing writer Peggy Orenstein, who recently traded her usual slow-travel style for the bustling energy of Busan, South Korea's second-largest city.

Known for her thoughtful explorations of walking trails like the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage and Slovenia's Juliana Trail, Peggy discovered that sometimes speeding things up can lead to extraordinary discoveries.

On this episode you'll learn:

Why choosing a country's "second city" over its capital can lead to more authentic travel experiences

The fascinating history of how Busan became a refuge city during the Korean War

What to expect at Korea's largest spa complex, including the mysterious sheep-head towel tradition

How Busan's coastal location makes it Korea's seafood capital, not just another beef-focused destination

Don't miss these moments:

[03:45] The "Abigail Adams theory" of travel that inspired Peggy's approach to choosing destinations

[07:20] Peggy's octopus experience at Jagalchi Fish Market and the safety warning she learned too late

[12:15] Inside Spa Land: 22 thermal baths, 13 saunas, and the community culture of Korean bathhouses

[16:30] The intangible "spirit of Busan" - how tranquility and turbulence coexist in this historic port city

[19:10] Peggy's perfect two-day Busan itinerary, from morning coffee overlooking the port to full spa days

Resources

Read Peggy's complete Afar story about her Busan adventure

Follow Peggy Orenstein for more travel insights and writing

Watch Ode to My Father, the Korean film that first sparked Peggy's interest in Busan

Read the transcript of the episode.

Next Episode Preview

Join Katherine in two weeks when she speaks with Emma John, a London-based journalist and Afar contributing writer, who visited Door County, Wisconsin - her 43rd U.S. state - and discovered why locals call it the "Cape Cod of the Midwest."

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By AFAR Media

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