The public outrage that followed the
discovery of several ‘forced labour’ labels sewn into clothes stocked by
budget clothing shop Primark has brought the issue of the ethics of the
supply chain back into the headlines. Just what is the real cost of
cheap goods in the West? In April 2013, 1,100 people – including garment
workers who had been producing clothes for UK retailers - died when the
Rana Plaza commercial block in Bangladesh collapsed. Earlier this year,
the Guardian claimed fishmeal used to produce farmed prawns for
UK supermarkets was produced using fish caught with slave labour. These
revelations fit into a history of claims made about ‘sweatshop’
conditions faced by workers producing everything from fashionable
footwear to top-of-the-range consumer electronics. However the problem
is not restricted to developing countries, as cases of exploitation and
abuse of labourers continue to emerge across the UK, too.
Some have called for UK retailers to boycott firms or even entire
countries that allow unacceptable working practices. After the Rana
Plaza disaster, Labour MP Michael Connarty demanded legislation to force
UK firms to audit their supply chains. But others believe boycotts do
more harm than good and that a better solution is to maintain commercial
links while demanding suppliers improve and work towards higher
standards. As a recent report by the British Retail Consortium notes:
‘Retailers drive positive change by embedding certain values and
standards in their supply chain that are central to its brand and which
address specific issues or concerns that are important to their customer
base.’ Withdrawing entirely from a country, some argue, would actually
make things worse by causing thousands of relatively poor people to lose
their jobs. What is more, given the long and complicated international
supply chains that big retailers deal with today, is it really possible
to ensure goods are produced in an ethical fashion? Or do we need ever
more scrutiny of big businesses to ensure they don’t turn a blind eye
While retailers debate how best to restore trust and demonstrate that
their products are ethically sourced – for example, by making details
of supply chains more transparent - shoppers are under pressure to ‘buy
responsibly’. Maybe it makes business sense, too, as ethical fashion
labels have become trendy and no doubt attract higher profit-margins
than low-cost clothing. However, some commentators warn against
demonising those who seek out cheap bargains or undermining the harmless
joys of shopping by turning retail therapy into an anxious moral maze
Is virtuous shopping really a case of guilt-ridden consumers in the
West showing off their consciences rather than helping exploited
producers? Or is it at least better than nothing, a morally worthwhile
alternative that reminds us of our responsibility to others? Could
clumsy interventions by retailers, responding to pressure from
campaigners, make things worse rather than better for developing-world
workers? Should concerns about working conditions be dealt with by
governments and workers in the producing countries rather than by
shoppers and stores in the UK?
Speakers
Sandy Black
professor of fashion & textile design & technology,
London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London; editor and
co-author, The Sustainable Fashion Handbook; author, Eco Chic the Fashion Paradox
Barbara Crowther
director of policy and public affairs, Fairtrade Foundation
Andrew Opie
director for food and sustainability, British Retail Consortium
Nathalie Rothschild
freelance journalist; producer and reporter for Sweden's public service radio
Chair
Jason Smith
partnerships coordinator, Debating Matters Competition; freelance journalist; co-founder, Birmingham Salon