Chemist Confessions

Part 2 of our Acne episode! we break down the skincare science behind four major prescription retinoids—tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, and trifarotene—to help you navigate your acne treatment options. We examine how these different generations interact with specific retinoic acid receptors, evaluate key clinical data on lesion reduction and treatment success rates, and highlight why formulation design and consistent daily sun protection play a vital role in your acne journey.

#skincarescience #sponsored #peptides #cosmeticchemist

Why popular over-the-counter ingredients might be falling short, how prescription options like low-dose tretinoin and spironolactone fit into the picture, and what a realistic, long-term management game plan looks like for aging, irritation-prone skin. Tune in to cut through the marketing noise and get the hard science on managing adult acne!

00:00 | HOT TAKE!

02:20 | The Four Biological Culprits of Breakouts

06:50 | Age Brackets & Defining Post-Adolescent Acne

09:16 | Persistent vs. Late-Onset Acne & Lifestyle Factors

11:37 | Spotlight on The Specialist Acid Booster

15:35 | Men vs. Women: Breaking Down the Prevalence Stats

23:23 | Hormones, DHT, and Systemic Factors

31:47 | Clinical Deep Dive: Low-Dose Tretinoin Efficacy

39:04 | Modern Retinoids Beyond Tretinoin

44:42 | Hot Takes on Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid

#skincarescience #acnecare

We spent three years developing our own mask tech, and it’s finally here! Meet CryoGoo, our  lattice jelly peel-off mask, built to get around the material limits of traditional masks.

To celebrate, we are going down a mask tech rabbit hole with everyone. In this episode,we break down what a face mask actually needs to do: occlusion, hydration, and active delivery. Then we put fabric sheet masks, bio-cellulose, hydrogel, PVA wrapping masks, and alginate modeling masks to the test, covering the real pros, cons, and performance of each. And of course, last but not least, we go through what makes our CryoGoo different from everyone else.

LINKS & PRODUCTS Chemist Confessions CryoGoo Jelly Peel-Off Mask: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/cryogoo-cooling-jelly-peel-off-mask

Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630015

Revision Skincare Biocellulose Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95631114

Medicube Collagen Night Wrapping Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630093

Mediheal Derma Modeling Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630988

CC Podcast Products: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Shop Favorites: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

In this special episode, we're joined by Rita Silva, Acting Director of Scientific Communications at DECIEM, for a deep dive into the science behind The Ordinary's popular peptide serums. From Multi-Peptide and Matrixyl to Argireline and the latest plant-derived growth factors, we're getting into the formulation history, clinical research, and what these products can realistically do for your skin.

PLEASE NOTE: In this episode, the original Skinceuticals CE Ferulic formula with only 15% ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid was tested for this episode. We dive into part two of our vitamin C series by putting popular C E Ferulic dupes to the test. Before revealing our side-by-side stability results, we go through a very helpful study from Slovenia examining 41 finished vitamin C products using HPLC testing to compare the quirks of various vitamin C derivatives—including L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Then we go through our 8 week test findings of 7 CE Ferulic dupes and compare them to the mother formula from Skinceuticals.

TIMELESS SKIN CARE | 20% Vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362237

MAELOVE | The Glow Maker Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362240

DRMTLGY | Vitamin C E + F Serum 30ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-87127883

EDUCATED MESS | Golden Hour Gold-Stabilized Vitamin C Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-87128013

00:00 | Vitamin C Dupes Series Round 3 Overview

01:16 | Slovenian Study: Analyzing 41 Vitamin C Products with HPLC

06:31 | Comparing L-Ascorbic Acid Stability to the Other Vitamin C Derivatives

15:43 | Meet the Contenders: Pricing and Packaging of Popular Dupes

20:15 | Week 0 to Week 8: Accelerated Oven Stability Test Results

24:53 | Pump Disasters, Gas Buildup, and Sedimentation Issues

28:31 | pH Levels and Batch-to-Batch Consistency in Serums

33:23 | Top Affordable C E Ferulic Alternatives We Recommend

35:16 | Final Thoughts on Vitamin C Derivatives and Derivatives Wrap-Up

We dive into a science-heavy breakdown of vitamin C formulations, focusing on the recent updates to the gold-standard C E Ferulic serum. We explore the history of L-ascorbic acid efficacy studies dating back to the 1990s by Dr. Pinnell’s lab, highlighting the classic UV-induced erythema protocol used to validate antioxidant skin protection. Then, we analyze emerging clinical data around new CE Ferulic additions: carnosine and dandelion endophytol and discuss the available data to see if the chemists can figure out whether or not this is worth the Skinceuticals price tag.

00:00 | Intro! 03:15 | L-Ascorbic Acid: A Brief Review

12:48 | What is Dandelion Endophytol?

25:00 | Carnosine's Clinical UV MED Study

29:30 | Reviewing Carnosine's Clinical Testing

34:15 | The Challenges of Plant Extracts and Actives

38:30 | Chemists discuss CE Ferulic vs. CE Ferulic 2.0

41:45 | The Chemists' Feelings on Patents

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#sponsored We’re taking a deep dive into the science behind K-Beauty brand Dr. Reju-All!

In this sponsored episode, we've partnered with Dr. Reju-All, to share some of their testing behind the products: the Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream and their latest launch, the Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum. We discuss their PDRN ingredient sourcing and why higher concentrations aren't always better—highlighting in vitro and clinical data showing why 1,200 ppm of salmon-derived PDRN is an optimal sweet spot for barrier recovery and hydration. We also analyze their Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum, exploring how encapsulating delicate copper tripeptides helps maintain formula integrity, alongside its clinical results on heat-induced skin stress, elasticity, and fine lines. Finally, we share our real-world user experience on how to layer these unique gel-gel textures into your existing routine. #rejuall #pdrn #copperpeptide

We’re cutting through the marketing fluff to decode five popular copper peptide serums! In this episode, we analyze the formulas, active ingredient combinations, and clinical data behind products from the Remedy, COSRX, Dr. Reju-All, The Ordinary, and Peach & Lily. We break down what these serums intend to treat, highlight potential formula overlap (like sneaky niacinamide and bakuchiol), and discuss the layering rules you may need to consider for your routine. Hear the chemists' perspective on where peptides fit into a smart anti-aging strategy.

Timestamps

00:01 | Copper Peptide Formula Breakdown Strategy

03:00 | Remedy Copper Peptide Complex Review

06:15 | COSRX Blue Peptide Bakuchiol Serum

15:39 | Dr. Reju-All PDRN Copper Peptide Serum

19:02 | The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides

21:54 | The Orindary Copper Peptide Serum's Layering Restrictions

23:33 | Peach & Lily Copper Peptide Pro Serum

26:24 | Chemists Discuss Copper Peptide Category Efficacy

31:32 | Where Peptides Fit in Your Skincare Routine

#GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #

🧪 Is GHK-Cu Overrated? The Science of Copper Peptides Explained Are Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) actual anti-aging powerhouses, or just smart marketing hype?

In this video, we dive deep into the 50-year scientific history of GHK-Cu, breaking down the exact biological pathways behind collagen and elastin synthesis. We analyze the physiological realities of peptide size, molecular weight, and the famous 500 Dalton Rule to reveal how much of your product actually penetrates the skin barrier. And most importantly... all the theories and in vitro studies aside, what do the clinical studies REALLY say?

YouTube Timestamps

00:00 | Biological Role of Copper Peptides

02:55 | The Four Categories of Skincare Peptides

04:18 | What is the 500 Dalton Rule? (Skin Permeation Guidelines)

08:32 | GHK-Cu Molecular Weight & Permeability Limitations

18:41 | Copper Peptide better than Tretinoin? What the clinical data ACTUALLY say)

25:20 | Animal Fun Fact! Copper peptides in the animal kingdom

30:58 | Can you use copper peptide with vitamin C? Active Ingredient Incompatibilities & Layering Guidelines

🔗 Resources & Links Animal fun fact study for the curious: https://www.livescience.com/bloodworms-fangs-origins

Blank Slate Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser (add to cart and get the mini for free with code MINIME)

Our Sunscreen Database! https://www.chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen

If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns!

#GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge