Chemist Confessions

Chemist Confessions

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Chemist Confessions episodes

  • #162 ) Testing 3 Popular K-Beauty Azelaic Acid Serums

    In this episode, we take a deep dive into the world of K-beauty azelaic acid products. We explore the science behind three popular contenders—Anua, Purito, and medicube—while decoding their ingredient lists, analyzing clinical testing data, and discussing the tricky chemistry of azelaic acid solubility.  We provide a chemist’s perspective on how to choose the right formula for your skincare routine.

    00:00 | Introducing K-Beauty Azelaic Acid Contenders  

    00:02 | The "Ouch" Factor: Testing medicube’s Needle Technology 
    00:04 | Sensation vs. Science: Do Spicules Improve Penetration?  
    00:05 | Texture Breakdown: Puridose Oil Droplets vs. Anua Watery Serum  
    00:08 | Decoding Ingredient Lists: Tea Tree Oil vs. Leaf Water 
     00:13 | Analyzing Anua’s Clinical Studies for Redness Reduction  
    00:18 | Is 4-Week Acne Testing Actually Meaningful?  
    00:23 | Bacterial Exosomes and the Future of Skincare Sourcing 
     00:29 | Chemist Corner: The Difficulty of Azelaic Acid Solubility  
    00:32 | Final Verdict: Choosing Suspensions vs. Soluble Formulas

    39 min
  • @161) Is Azelaic Acid Better Than Hydroquinone?

    This week, we're starting our series on hyperpigmentation answering one of the most common questions many of us will encounter which is, "Is azelaic acid better than hydroquinone for my hyperpigmentation

    00:00 | Introduction: 2026 Skincare Kickoff

    03:45 | Investigating the PNAS Combination Study
    08:12 | Deep Dive: Azelaic Acid vs. Hydroquinone
    12:50 | The Challenge of Finding Full Research Papers
    18:30 | Patient Compliance: The 16-Week Milestone
    22:15 | Why Visual Improvements Take Time
    27:00 | Analyzing Study Abstracts vs. Full Data
    31:10 | Dual Therapy Overkill: 5% Concentration Discussion
    31:50 | Motivation and Routine Consistency for Results

    Product Shoutout:

    Double Play Retinol
    https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

    Enrichment Content:

    Chemists’ Guide to Choosing an Exfoliating Toner
    https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/how-to-choose-the-right-exfoliating-toner-for-your-skin

    Follow us:

    IG:   / chemist.confessions  
    INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
    TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

    Skincare questions for the podcast?

    Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next

     

    33 min
  • #160) We tested 103 products in 2025

    The Chemist Confessions podcast year-end review is here!

    We blitz through the 103 skincare products tested in 2025! We reveal our favorite and least favorite categories, discuss surprising finds like Hypochlorite Acid, and give our honest takes on individual products, including the Banana Boat Light as Air Sunscreen and the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Sunscreen, and of course, Animal Corner!

    Timestamps: 

    00:00 | Welcome to Chemist Confessions Podcast & Year-End Review
    01:07 | How Many Skincare Products Did We Test in 2025? (103 products!)
    03:55 | Favorite Skincare Product Categories We Tested This Year
    07:27 | What is Our Least Favorite Skincare Product Category?
    10:07 | Why is K-Beauty C-Fu Dupe Testing Boring?
    12:21 | Most Surprising Skincare Category: Cleansing Oils & Hypochlorite Acid
    18:11 | Best Product of the Year: Banana Boat Light As Air Sunscreen Review
    21:48 | Worst Product of the Year: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Sunscreen Pill Test
    25:54 | Most Surprising Product: What is A0X or 2X Intense?
    28:17 | Are Cushion Foundations Good Sunscreens? Tarte Cushion Review

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

    Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

    Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

    Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

    Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams 

    Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

    Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments, and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions  #skincarescience  #chemistconfessionspodcast  #skincarehacks

    34 min
  • #159) Occlusive Balms Head-to-Head! | Chemist Confessions Podcast

    We did a product head-to-head comparing occlusive balms, all with a petrolatum base! Following our beef tallow deep dive, we are breaking down the texture, transfer, price, and complex chemist notes of Vaseline, Aquaphor, CeraVe, Prequel, and our own Bon Voyage. Which formula is best for sensitive, compromised, dry, or oily skin, and why a simple formula isn't always best!

    00:00 | Welcome to Chemist Confessions Podcast!

    00:37 | What is an occlusive balm and why does petrolatum matter?
    01:09 | Vaseline vs Aquaphor: Price and ingredient breakdown
    03:25 | How does Vaseline’s texture change with application amount?
    06:01 | Is Aquaphor better than Vaseline for lips and transfer resistance?
    07:55 | Why is CeraVe Healing Ointment less shiny than other balms?
    11:31 | How do dry vs oily skin types react to occlusive balms?
    14:47 | Why does Vaseline have a drug facts label?
    16:07 | Should you avoid complex balm formulas for compromised skin?
    23:07 | Are occlusive balms temperature sensitive? Storage tips for warmer climates

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

    Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

    Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

    Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

    Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams 

    Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

    Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

    28 min
  • #158) Why is BEEF TALLOW in skincare?

    This week, we tackle one of the most requested ingredients: Beef Tallow in skincare. We break down the science, compare its characteristics to other popular ingredients like shea butter, and look at the actual topical studies (or lack thereof).

    00:00 | What Is Beef Tallow and Why Is It in Skincare?

    00:43 | Is Beef Tallow Really Similar to Human Skin Lipids?
    02:09 | How Beef Tallow Is Made: The Science Behind the Fat
    03:22 | Melting Point Breakdown: Beef Tallow vs Human Sebum
    05:47 | How Extraction Methods Affect Skincare Ingredient Quality
    09:37 | What Do Saponification and Iodine Values Mean for Skin?
    20:25 | Does Beef Tallow Have Any Proven Skin Benefits?
    37:18 | What Happened When I Put Beef Tallow on My Face?
    40:56 | Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, or Beef Tallow — What’s Best for Dry Skin?

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

    Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

    Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

    Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

    Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

    Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

    Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

    43 min
  • #157) Ceramides in products! | Chemist Confessions Podcast

    We dive deep into the complicated science of ceramides (NP, AP, EOP) in your barrier creams, explaining the complex nomenclature and how different ceramide types function in the skin. We compare the ceramide blends found in 10 popular moisturizers and reveal the winning factors to look for when you're shopping: known percentages and clinical testing. Plus, we explore supporting ingredients like Meadowfoam Estolide and Phytosphingosine, giving you a peek behind the curtain of how these popular moisturizers are formulated.

     

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

    Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

    Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

    Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

    Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams 

    Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

    Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience  #chemistconfessionspodcast  #skincarehacks

    48 min
  • #156) EAST VS WEST! 10 Barrier Creams Reviewed & Ranked!

    We review 10 popular East and West barrier creams from Aestura, Dr. Jart, Dieux, Skinceuticals, La Roche Posay, and more. We break down everything from texture and finish for different skin types to occlusives like petrolatum and dimethicone, humectants like glycerin, and clinical claims. We also look at which creams are best for "suffering" vs. generally healthy skin

    00:00 | 10 Barrier Creams: East vs. West Product Lineup 

    02:44 | How much do Barrier Creams cost? Price Buckets 
    03:51 | What are the different Barrier Cream textures for dry and oily skin? 
    09:25 | Moisturizer Residue: How long does the cream's finish last? 
    16:22 | Pilling Potential: Which barrier creams are prone to pilling? 
    18:15 | How do chemists evaluate a barrier cream? Key ingredients 
    18:52 | Heavy-handed vs. Lightweight Occlusives in Barrier Creams 
    21:20 | Glycerin and Humectants in Barrier Creams: What position matters? 
    25:38 | Clinical Highlights: Dieux, Dr. Jart, and Aestura claims explained 
    31:17 | Barrier Cream Recommendations for Suffering vs. Healthy Skin

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

    Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

    Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

    Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

    Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams 

    Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

    Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience  #chemistconfessionspodcast  #skincarehack

    38 min
  • #155) Sulfur Skincare Product Review | Chemist Confessions Podcast

    We put three 10% OTC sulfur products to the test! Kate Somerville, the Ordinary, Vichy, and De La Cruz Lab have four completely different takes on sulfur. The chemists discuss which product is the best to use as an acne spot treat!

     

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season

    *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.

    https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

     

    Product Shoutout:

    The Specialist: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-specialist-exfoliating-treatment

     

    Enrichment Content:

    EP153: OTC Sulfur for Acne is Kinda Weird!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cPB2eUtYpY&list=PLldQkxjc7bYnFkUtOw8Y07yCyBnaF4ddx&index=2

     

    From the Blog: The Chemists’ Comprehensive Guide to Acne Pt. 1

    https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/the-chemists-comprehensive-guide-to-acne-pt-1

     

    00:00 | Sulfur Products Review: Which 10% Sulfur Acne Treatment is Best?

    00:39 | What are the selection criteria for the 4 sulfur products?

    01:22 | Price comparison of The Ordinary, Vichy, Kate Somerville, and De La Cruz sulfur products

    02:48 | How does a dry-skin representative use a drying sulfur spot treatment?

    03:38 | Which sulfur product has a classic drying, high absorption lotion texture?

    04:00 | The problem with Kate Somerville's isopropyl alcohol-based drying lotion

    06:30 | Ranking sulfur products by "rotten egg smell"—which one smells the most?

    08:46 | Chemist Notes: Which oil-absorbing powders are in the sulfur formulas?

    11:13 | Which sulfur products contain additional acne actives like Glycolic or Salicylic Acid?

    14:11 | Is sulfur a long-term preventative acne ingredient or just a spot treat?

     

    Follow us:

    IG:  https://www.instagram.com/chemist.con...

    INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/

    TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

     

    Skincare questions for the podcast?

    Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

    17 min
  • #154) AD | A Deep Dive Into VT’s Reedle Skincare!

    In paid partnership with VT! VT has given us insider access to the R&D behind their viral Reedle Skincare. In thanks to our community’s curiosity, they’ve decided to share the research behind their reedles, what makes them special, and all the testing they’ve done behind this product line. The chemists also share their experience and recommendation using this uniquely prickly but soothing? Kbeauty serum.

     

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season

    *A small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. (Thank you!)

    https://shopmy.us/shop/collections/1280514

     

    Enrichment Content:

    EP 128: Our Deep Dive into Spicules (Non-paid/non-gifted)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acn8V6-4_Uk&t=61s

     

    EP 129: VT’s Reedle Shot 50 vs. 100 (Non-paid/non-gifted)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-BwdlFYFU0&t=1s

     

    Follow us:

    IG:   / chemist.confessions  

    INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/

    TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

     

    Skincare questions for the podcast?

    Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

    23 min
  • #153) The Science Behind Sulfur for Acne & Skincare

    We take a deep dive into the science behind Sulfur, a very old and historically prevalent ingredient for acne. We discuss its nonmetal clay origins and characteristic scent, often described as rotten eggs , or like "if a clay farted". The episode covers its classification as an OTC acne ingredient , its proposed catalytic and oil-absorbing mechanisms , and the challenges in its topical formulation, such as particle size. We also look at old-school research, including a study on 10% Sulfur + 4% Niacinamide drying lotion , and offer realistic expectations: Sulfur is best used as a spot treatment for quick fixes, not for long-term overall breakout reduction

    Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season

    *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
    https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

    Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025

    *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
    https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

    Product Shoutout:

    Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
    https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

    Enrichment Content:

    Sunscreen Layering Guide
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

    Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?

    https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

    Follow us:

    IG: / chemist.confessions
    INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
    TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

    Skincare questions for the podcast?

    Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

    30 min

About Chemist Confessions

From the publisher's feed

Skincare chemists Gloria & Victoria’s weekly conversation on all things skincare science.
The podcast covers notable skincare news, decoding outrageous claims, demystifying the overwhelming…

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