Tahini has gotten a lot of press in the last few years, and the delicious sesame paste has become a staple in many of our pantries. Many cultures have embraced the borderless sesame seed in some form or another, including Japanese gomashio and furikake, hummus from the Middle East, Italian Reginelle cookies, and even in burgers. In her new book, Rachel Simons explores all the possibilities and guises of this versatile ingredient: Sesame: Global Recipes & Stories of an Ancient Seed

Rachel is the co-founder of Seed+Mill, which offers top-quality tahini and halvah, a rich sesame paste that’s one of the best things you’ll put in your mouth. There are many brands of tahini and halvah (that vary in quality) but the ones offered by Seed+Mill are uniformly excellent, and I always make room in my suitcase to bring some back to Paris with me.

And if you find yourself in New York City, the tahini soft-serve ice cream they serve in their shop at the Chelsea Market, served with crumbles of halvah, is truly a scoop—or swirl—of heaven.

Rachel is one of the nicest people I know, although she did yell at me once…

I was packing jelly rings at the Joyva halvah factory in Brooklyn with Jake Cohen, and that’s Rachel, yelling at me. 😂

We’ve since made up and I’ve been enjoying her new book, Sesame, so much that I invited her on my podcast when I was in New York, to talk about tahini, halvah, and the wonderful world of sesame seeds.

Enjoy!

-David

Links

* Follow Rachel Simons on Instagram, and Seed+Mill on Instagram

* Get Sesame: Global Recipes and Stories from an Ancient Seed

* Visit the Seed + Mill website, where you can order tahini and halvah

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It may sound cliché, but I suspect for most of you, Dorie Greenspan needs no introduction. Dorie is an accomplished baker, whose books range from an oversize volume of never-fail cookie recipes, Dorie’s Cookies, to translating the recipes of master Parisian pastry chef Pierre Hermé, making them accessible to home bakers in Desserts by Pierre Hermé. And when Julia Child launched her TV show, Baking with Julia on PBS, she tapped Dorie to write the companion book, Baking with Julia.

Dorie describes herself as a part-time Parisian, so I took advantage of her time while she was in Paris recently invited her to stop by my kitchen for a chat.

We talked about many subjects, including our favorite baking pans, whether the U.S. is ready for metrics (or at least recipes in weights), how to get the hump in madeleines, and how she wrote, and cajoled recipes from pastry chefs and pâtisseries, for her Paris-based cookbooks; Baking Chez Moi, Around My French Table, and Paris Sweets.

Her new book is Dorie’s Anytime Cakes and features casual cakes, in all different shapes, sizes, and flavors…

When Dorie came by, she (of course) arrived with cakes from Pierre Hermé and a box of macarons, including one flavored with tomato leaves and another with tonka beans.

A few show notes:

* When asked about her three favorite bakeries in Paris at the moment, she mentioned Michalak, Rayonnance, and Tapisserie in the podcast.

* My favorite California Blenheim dried apricots are from Apricot King.

* The European-style cake pan we mentioned is the Tea Loaf Pan from King Arthur Baking. (I mention it in my chocolate book, coming out in the spring of 2026.)

I hope you enjoy our chat!- David

* Follow Dorie on Instagram and Facebook

* Visit her website: doriegreenspan.com

* Subscribe to Dorie’s newsletter: xoxodoriegreenspan

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Living in France, it’s hard to overestimate the prevalence and importance of wine. Not only is it a marker and reflection of the place where it’s made, but it’s an integral part of French culture and cuisine. It’s a natural pairing with meals and accompanies almost every gathering with friends and family.

I like wine, but like most people in France, I’m an amateur. I know what I like and what I don’t like. But I’m taking more of an interest in wine to deepen my knowledge. So I’m fortunate to have friends like Preston Mohr, who’s an expert on wine but also knows how to communicate and explain wine in simple terms, without any pretense, so we can all get more enjoyment out of it.

I invited Preston into my Paris kitchen to talk about French wines — what to look for when buying French wine, how to order wine without feeling sheepish in a restaurant or café, and what to do if the wine you’ve been served isn’t to your liking. (Which was discussed in the comments here.)

We also chatted about how the French wine world has changed over the last few years, whether Beaujolais should be avoided, as well as his favorite wine bars in Paris.

Originally from Minnesota, Preston has called Paris home for the last twenty years. He’s the Managing Director of the Wine Scholar Guild, which connects wine lovers from around the world and offers certification programs for wine professionals and enthusiasts who want to learn more about wine, either in person, at one of 130 locations around the world, or online, at your own pace. In fact, I’m thinking of signing up!

We had lunch today at Le Cornichon and tried to power through this giant platter of frites (that were very good), but only managed to make a good-sized dent in them.

Next time…

In the meantime, enjoy listening to my chat with Preston.

-David

Links

* Wine Scholar Guild (website)

* Preston Mohr on LinkedIn

* Preston Mohr on Instagram

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Thanks to everyone for tuning into my live video with Yotam Ottolenghi!

It was great fun to connect with Yotam and discuss everything from cooking and baking inspiration, to favorite kitchen tools and tips, as well as two “weekend friendly” recipes; Yotam Ottolenghi’s Baked Feta-Dill Frittata and my Croissants aux amandes, almond-filled croissants.

I’ll be posting the recipe for them this week - stay tuned!

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When Kate Leahy was in Paris recently, I was happy to have a chat with her in my kitchen for my podcast. A former restaurant cook, Kate seamlessly pivoted to food writing, collaborating on books with a variety of chefs, bakers, and sommeliers, and has also penned several books on her own.

Kate co-authored La Buvette with Camille Fourmont, the owner of the charming La Buvette wine bar in Paris, and most recently, My Egypt with chef-restaurateur Michael Mina.

She also co-wrote Lavash, which explores the world of Armenian flatbreads; Cookie Love with Mindy Segal; Burma Superstar, featuring recipes from San Francisco’s legendary Burmese restaurant; and A16 Food+Wine, from one of the best Italian restaurants in America.

While Kate was in Paris working on a project with me, in between baking together and hitting the town, attending chocolate tastings, and checking out the $15 ham & cheese sandwich at the Ritz Hotel’s Le Comptoir bakery (see below), we talked about writing cookbooks in this podcast.

A lot goes into writing a cookbook, especially when she’s collaborating with a chef and travels to places such as Egypt and Armenia to research and cull recipes. We discussed how she chooses what projects to work on, which chefs and sommeliers to work with, what are the most rewarding parts of writing cookbooks…and what are the most difficult. (And no, working with me wasn’t one of the latter…hopefully!😉)

Our chat also touched on the subject of the world of cookbooks today, what makes a good cookbook, and what direction cookbooks are going in. Other topics include how the world of food writing has changed with the internet and recipes on social media, where recipe sharing has pivoted to what Alicia Kennedy has called the test kitchen-ifcation of food media, as people vie for attention in a changing landscape.

Enjoy the podcast!

-David

* Follow Kate Leahy on Instagram.

* Visit Kate Leahy’s website.

* Check out Kate Leahy’s books.

* Listen to Kate’s podcast with Kristin Donnelly, Molly Stevens, and Andrea Nguyen — Everything Cookbooks. (My episode with them is here.)

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[Thanks to audio engineer Justin Golden for working his magic, and his editing talents, on my podcasts.]

I’ve known Lindsey Tramuta almost as long as I’ve been in Paris. We live in the same arrondissement (go 11th!) and I occasionally see her out and about, when she’s not busy writing books, or magazines and newspaper articles, which are featured in such publications as The New York Times, Bon Appétit, and Condé Nast Traveler.

I arrived in Paris quite unprepared, not speaking French not knowing what to expect. Lindsey moved to France the opposite way (and in my opinion, the right way), with a background in French literature, studying in France, and having a boyfriend, who is now her husband. Even so, the move still presented some challenges.

I thought it would be fun to talk to Lindsey about her journey—what motivated her to make the move (and how she answers the eternal question from visitors: Is it permanent?), what she loves about the city and living in France, as well as some of the downsides of living one’s life abroad.

In Lindsey’s first book, The New Paris, she chronicled the last decade in Paris, during while time the city’s food scene had lost some of its some of its luster, and showcased a new generation of young, engaged Parisians who changed the landscape, rebooting Paris’ reputation as a thriving, world-class gastronomic destination, that continues to evolve.

In The New Parisienne, Lindsey tackles the perception of the Parisian woman, profiling pastry chefs, creators, artists, activists, and even the mayor of city, who have changed the image of the French woman (rather than adhering to the stereotype), and who continue to shape the city today.

Lindsey also just finished The Eater Guide to Paris, focusing on the bistros, wine bars, pastry shops, cafés, and cocktail bars in the city, which will be released in the spring of 2025. In addition to writing books and articles, Lindsey is the host of her own podcast, The New Paris podcast, and writes the newsletter, The New Paris Dispatch.

We had a great time talking about our lives in Paris, including what’s changed in the city since we arrived, if Paris really is a good place to live, what are some of the difficulties of living here (#paperwork), what are some of the cultural differences one must navigate, our thoughts on the French healthcare system, and why we’ve both ultimately chose to call Paris our home.

I hope you enjoy our chat!

-David

Lindsey Tramuta

* Lindsey’s website: Lindseytramuta.com

* Instagram

* The New Paris Podcast

* Lindsey’s Books

* Paris Tours (customized Paris tours)

* Subscribe and read The New Paris Dispatch newsletter

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A few years ago, I visited several Pineau des Charentes producers in a region of France known as the Charente, where Cognac is made. Legend has it that it was originally made by accident when a Cognac producer centuries ago added fresh grape to a barrel of eau-de-vie (a clear distillation of grapes), intended to be aged for Cognac. He let it rest, and age, anyways, and thus, Pineau des Charentes was made.

Nowadays Pineau des Charentes comes in white, red, and rosé varieties, with the rosé version aging the shortest, to some of the reds and whites being aged a decade or more, although most Pineau des Charentes is aged for about 12-18 months before it’s bottled.

It’s one of my favorite French apéritifs, which I wrote about in my book Drinking French. During my travels for the book, doing research, and diving deeper into the world of French spirits, I was fortunate to meet various producers, and it was gratifying to see what care they took

Amy married into a Cognac-making family and I met her on a visit to the region when I was visiting

I sort of made a gaffe when I was in the region prior to visiting Amy and her husband Jean, by slipping a cube of ice into my glass of Pineau des Charentes, which shocked a few of the people around me. Amy later showed me an ad from years ago that said “Osez!” (“Dare!”) and pictured a glass of Pineau des Charentes with ice is in.

Nowadays, they’re upping the “cool” factor of Pineau des Charentes by showing bartenders putting ice into Pineau des Charentes, which is a great way to enjoy it, but well-chilled, without glaçons is good fine, too.

I love Pineau des Charentes and am particularly fond of the apéritif made by Jean-Luc Pasquet, which has a unique freshness that makes it brighter than other Pineaus, and their apéritif infused with raspberries from their garden, is wonderful sipped in the summer, with or without ice. Although I always put a cube or two in mine : )

They are also making a rosé Pineau des Charentes which is giving other rosé-based French apéritifs a run for their money.

Amy was recently elected to be the president of the Comité National du Pineau des Charentes

We talked about what is Pineau des Charentes, how it relates to the Cognac-making region of France, how to drink it, and what makes it so special. While not as well-known as other French apéritifs (98% of the Cognac production is exported from France, whereas only 20% of the Pineau des Charentes is exported) and we agree that it deserves to be better-known.

I hope you enjoy my chat wtih Amy about this uniquely French apéritif!

-David

You can find Jean-Luc Pasquet Pineau des Charentes on Wine Searcher.

Follow Jean-Luc Pasquet on Instagram.

Visit the Jean-Luc Pasquet website.

Try this Fall-friendly Harvest Spritz Cocktail, made with Pineau des Charentes.

If anyone knows the cuisine of Nice, it’s Rosa Jackson, owner of Les Petits Farcis for over twenty years. Located in the sunny south of France, Niçoise cooking is known for its freshness and Mediterranean flavors, using ingredients that range from local olive oil and anchovies to vibrant vegetables, such as tomatoes, Swiss chard, and zucchini (and zucchini flowers), as well as fresh goat cheeses and fragrant basil.

Rosa is the author of Niçoise: Market-Inspired Cooking from France's Sunniest City, with recipes that’ll entice you: Pan bagnat sandwiches packed with fresh, crisp vegetables; soupe au pistou, a lively vegetable soup for summer swirled with basil pistou; caramelized orange cake; a foolproof lemon soufflé; and a lemon tart accented with olive oil.

During our chat in my kitchen in Paris, Rosa and I discussed the cuisine of the sunny city she lives in, including the controversies surrounding the salade Niçoise (and the, um…less-than-enthusiastic local reaction to the Larousse version) and how to make a proper Pan bagnat, a sandwich that’s so esteemed in the region that there are official guidelines about what can, and can’t, go into the sandwich.

Enjoy the chat!

- David

* Visit Rosa at her website Rosajackson.com

* Follow Rosa on Instagram

* Subscribe to Rosa Jackson’s newsletter

* Visit Rosa’s cooking school in Nice, Les Petits Farcis

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Can I tell you how much fun it’s been getting to know Jane Bertch over the years? I’m not exactly sure how we met, but it may have been when I was leading tours and brought our guests for a day-long market tour and cooking class at La Cuisine, her cooking school in Paris. Everyone enjoyed the day very much, including me, and over the years, we’ve shared stories about relationships, and some of the quirks involved in cross-cultural connections, working and living in France, and, of course, we’ve shared several glasses of wine and a number of delicious meals together.

Jane has succeeded in building a life, and a career, in Paris, in spite of the hurdles of running a business, including navigating les voisins (neighbors), strikes, a pandemic that closed the country’s borders, an ash cloud that stranded travelers (and brought business to a halt) for weeks, and turbulent gilets jaunes demonstrations, while welcoming guests from around the world to her French cooking school.

I’m thrilled about her new book, The French Ingredient: Making a Life in Paris One Lesson at a Time, which recounts her life in Paris, from working in banking, to realizing her dream of opening a cooking school overlooking the Seine, which comes out this Tuesday, and is available for pre-order here:

In this podcast, we talk about a range of things that Jane learned along the way, and in her book, she discusses cultivating friendships and business relationships in France (versus the way things are done in America), French table manners (don’t pour your own wine!) and why people won’t eat any treats that you bring to the office,

I hope you enjoy the podcast..and her book, The French Ingredient!

-David

* Follow La Cuisine on Instagram and Facebook

* Sign up for the La Cuisine newsletter with Paris tips, favorite addresses, and news on what’s happening in Paris.

* Check out La Cuisine in Paris Cooking School (website)

* Get The French Ingredient

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I remember when Deb Perelman, aka: Smitten Kitchen, came on the scene in 2006. A few of us had been blogging for a couple of years, doing our thing—when suddenly, a fresh new voice came out of the blue (and out of New York), that segued perfectly to the new way we eat, and cook—less rules, more fun, and how we write about food.

If you’re anything like me, you’ve been following her blog for years and cooking from her books. Decades later, her blog remains one of the most popular food destinations on the internet and each of her books has topped the NYT best-seller list upon its release.

Her recipes are accessible and well-tested, and the entertaining stories that accompany them have made Deb a trusted voice to those of us who follow her. I’ve been fortunate to count her as a friend and she’s just as delightful in person as she is in print and online.

Blogging, and the food media (online and in print) have changed so much over the years, and in this podcast, Deb and I discuss those changes, and how we’ve adapted, as well as her favorite foods (and her least favorite foods), where she gets inspiration, how she tests recipes, eating out vs. eating in, and more.

I hope you enjoy listening to our chat!

-David

* Visit Smitten Kitchen.com

* Check out Deb’s best-selling cookbooks here.

* Listen to her new podcast, The Recipe, with Kenji López-Alt

* Sign up for Deb’s weekly newsletter.

* Follow Smitten Kitchen on Instagram.

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