Louisiana Eats

There's a mouthful of memories in every family – especially if your family is in the food biz! On this week's show, we hear from New Orleanians whose parents and grandparents gave them a passion for food and a love for their community.

We begin with writer and philanthropist Randy Fertel, whose 2011 memoir, The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak, tells the story of his larger-than-life parents. His mother, Ruth U. Fertel, founded Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, now a worldwide establishment, right here in the Crescent City.

Then, we learn about New Orleans' famous muffuletta sandwich, which is said to have been invented at Central Grocery, the Italian deli established in the French Quarter in 1906. We bring you an oral history from NOLA Life Stories, in which third-generation owner Salvatore "Tommy" Tusa describes the evolution of this family business, as told to Mark Cave of the Historic New Orleans Collection.

And finally, we get the story of Barrow's Catfish, which has been a cornerstone of the Hollygrove neighborhood since 1943. Deirdre Barrow Johnson and her husband, Kenneth discuss their family's legacy – one that began with a fried catfish sandwich sold from Deirdre's grandfather's barroom door.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Businesses open. Businesses close. But some businesses manage to recover from calamities of biblical proportions. On this week's show, we learn what it takes to rebuild a beloved brand after a long hiatus.

First, we hear from Drew Ramsey, whose family has run Hubig's, makers of New Orleans' favorite hand pies for three generations. At least they did, until a fire destroyed their factory in 2012. But like a fried phoenix rising from the ashes, Hubig's is back in business after a 10-year absence.

And 17 years after Hurricane Katrina nearly ended his family's legacy, Vance Vaucresson has returned three generations of sausage-making traditions back to the Seventh Ward. We learn about the struggles Vaucresson Sausage Company faced before and after the storm and its long road to recovery.

Not only are the Vaucressons back, but they're growing! Julie Vaucresson – the Creole Sausage Queen herself – reveals the story of how their new mustard line came to join their family's revered brand.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

In today’s society, meat often gets a bad rap. But this week, we speak with three people who find great beauty in the art of the butcher, the finger-licking taste of barbecue, and even the usefulness of wild hogs.

First, Chef Matt Moore chats about his latest cookbook, Butcher on the Block, which is chock full of over 125 recipes for grilling and barbecue. The volume also offers a butchering primer for at-home cooks, as well as a personal introduction to the butchers behind the recipes.

Next, Pitmaster Ryan Mitchell, son of barbecue legend Ed Mitchell, talks about the nearly forgotten craft of whole-hog barbecue and his family’s barbecue legacy. It's documented along with some award-winning recipes in the father and son's first cookbook, Ed Mitchell's Barbeque.

Finally, Julie Grunewald, executive director of Hunters for the Hungry, joins us to explain how local sportsmen are using wild game to feed those in need.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Every Saturday morning, the Covington Farmers Market delivers a delicious dose of family fun in the heart of the city’s downtown. Farmers, chefs, musicians, and foodies come together to celebrate the bounty that is Louisiana food. Widely considered to be one of the best markets in the state, it is also one of the oldest.

Founded in the mid-1990s, long before the farm-to-table craze began, the market was hardly an overnight success. It took years of hard work from countless people. On this podcast, we speak with three individuals who were instrumental in getting the Covington Farmers Market off the ground and shaping it into what it is today: Bo Gallup, Jan Biggs, and Ann McKenzie Mellon.

New Orleans chefs Susan Spicer and Frank Brigtsen are both culinary icons. They are also back-to-back recipients of the coveted Ella Brennan Lifetime Achievement Award, presented each year by the New Orleans Wine & Food Experience: Frank was recognized in 2022; Susan received the 2023 award in January at a gala celebration at The Four Seasons Hotel.

On this week's show, we sit down with both honorees – who each have culinary careers spanning over 40 years – to learn about their successes and the challenges they overcame to become the legends they are today.

We begin with Chef Susan Spicer. Back in 1998, The New York Times named Susan the “Quiet Star of New Orleans.” 25 years later, she remains one of the city’s most celebrated culinary figures, showcasing her talents at the helm of such restaurants as Bayona and Rosedale. Susan reflects on a career of accomplishments.

And how do you create a life's legacy? If you've ever had a bite of Chef Frank Brigtsen's authentic Creole cooking, you've tasted it. From 1978 through the early ’80s, Chef Frank earned his culinary stripes in the kitchens of Commander's Palace and K-Paul's, working under the watchful eye of Paul Prudhomme. Building on those years of apprenticeship, in 1986, he opened Brigtsen's Restaurant to local and national critical acclaim. The legendary New Orleans chef looks back at his 50-year career in hospitality.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Commander's Palace has been a New Orleans culinary landmark since it first opened in the city's Garden District in 1893. Once Ella Brennan and her family took It over in the 1970s, it became an international sensation, elevating Louisiana cuisine and launching the careers of chefs Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse. On this week's show, we celebrate 130 years of Commander's Palace by dipping into our archives to bring you Commander's stories past and present.

We begin with the restaurant's Executive Chef Meg Bickford, the first female in 127 years to burst through the gender barrier and command the historic kitchen. There's an awful lot of talent and power in that tiny little frame.

Then, we hear from Lally Brennan and Ti Martin, the ladies who have been at the helm of Commander's for over two decades. They discuss their relationship with the institution and share their experiences growing up as members of one of New Orleans' most famous restaurant families.

Finally, Dickie Brennan shares memories of the early days of Commander's Palace, and how his dad, Dick Brennan, both invented the iconic jazz brunch and dreamt up some of the restaurant's most famous dishes.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Many chefs spend their entire careers content to run a single restaurant. But others have a different vision – one that encompasses multiple locations or even various kinds of eateries. This week, we take a look at three such New Orleans restaurateurs and find out how they've gone about building their culinary empires.

We begin with Chef Aaron Burgau, who opened his first restaurant, Patois, in 2007. Since then, he’s opened or acquired four more dining spots – each one completely different than the last. Aaron shares the secrets to his success.

Next, restaurateur Greg Tillery recalls the leap of faith that led him to buy a food truck, where he learned, through trial and error, how to run a business. He explains to us how those efforts led to his We Dat's Chicken and Shrimp, with locations now in three different states – and even a seasoning line.

Finally, we look back at one of New Orleans’ most colorful culinary characters – the late Al Copeland, who founded the Popeyes fried chicken empire. This kitchen-rags-to-chicken-riches story is the subject of the book Secrets of a Tastemaker. Al Copeland, Jr. joins us to discuss his father's life – from his humble beginnings and through its highs and lows.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Barely thirty minutes northeast of New Orleans, you'll find a thriving, world class culinary scene in Slidell, Louisiana. For over 20 years now, Duffy Ramirez has paved the fine dining path at Palmettos on the Bayou. Beginning with a century-old homestead, Duffy expanded and grew his restaurant from the original 40 seats to today's capacity for up to 400 without ever losing the intimate feel of Palmettos' original cottage. When executive chef Ross Dover took the reins in Palmettos' kitchen, the operation took a serious step up. We sat down in the restaurant's dining room for two conversations: first with Chef Ross and then with Duffy to learn more about the special spot along the bayou.

Fine china and crystal, earthenware and artisan glassware – it doesn’t matter what you have – it can all be transformed into a personal expression of your welcoming hospitality. On this week's show, we speak with some of the nation's finest tableware experts for an education and some inspiration.

First, we chat with Susan Gravely, founder of Vietri, the lifestyle company that has brightened American tables with artisan-crafted Italian dinnerware for the past 40 years. Susan discusses her life lessons in setting a stylish table and the book she penned to celebrate Vietri's anniversary – Italy on a Plate.

Then, John Stuart Gordon offers his thoughts on the role silver flatware played in the dining rituals of the 19th century. John has the unique honor of curating American decorative arts at the Yale University Art Gallery, creating for himself the perfect marriage of passion and career.

Finally, we hear from Antiques Roadshow appraiser Nick Dawes. Nick's expertise gives him a remarkable view into the lives of people and their ancestors through the relics that they bring to the PBS show. His visit to the Historic New Orleans Collection's Antiques Forum gave us the opportunity to tap his vast knowledge of ceramics and glass.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Alcohol in almost any form is one of the oldest medicines known to man. On this week's show, we explore the world of high proof healing. We start with Camper English, author of Doctors and Distillers: The Remarkable Medicinal History of Beer, Wine, Spirits, and Cocktails. Camper covers everything from mystic botanicals and their monastic apothecary origins to the unusual relationship between syphilis and root beer.

The conversation continues with Noah Rothbaum, who expounds on curatives that found their way from the medicine cabinet to the liquor cabinet.

And then of course, there was that troublesome period known as Prohibition. That's when the apothecary filled your prescription for alcohol and soda fountains became commonplace at the pharmacy. Darcy O’Neil joins us for a conversation that may have you rethinking what you knew about the soda fountain.

Finally, we visit Poppy's personal apothecary on the corner. Stephanie Haeberlin of Art Farm creates all sorts of healing and beauty products that originate in her garden on Canal Boulevard in New Orleans.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.