Louisiana Eats

While Mardi Gras and Thanksgiving are all fine and good, here at Louisiana Eats, our very favorite holiday has always been Halloween! Every October since the show's debut in 2010, we've gotten into the spooky spirit by bringing you stories of the silly, the supernatural, and the downright scary! This week and next, we continue our crystal anniversary celebration by bringing you two special Halloween episodes featuring moments old and new from the past 15 years.

We begin with Chef Greg Picolo, whom we spoke with for our very first Halloween show back in 2010 and then again in 2019. It seems like no matter where Greg goes, paranormal activity keeps following him!

Or is it just that nowhere in New Orleans is safe from hauntings? Greg's tale leads us to one Mid-City restaurant whose specters' hijinks have remained consistent through three different owners. Celeste Bergeron McCann and Chef Greg of Vessel's two former iterations⁠ – Christian's and Redemption, respectively – tell us about their paranormal experiences with the building's more malevolent spirits.

Next, we delve further into the supernatural with Manbo Sallie Ann Glassman, who has been practicing Vodou in the Crescent City since 1977. She tells us about the role food plays in ceremonial Haitian Vodou and describes the Day of the Dead / Fèt Gede celebration she leads in the New Orleans Healing Center every November 1st. We also go into her botanica to see some of the unusual elements the Vodou priestess brings into play.

Then, New Orleans writer Scott Gold recommends some spill-chilling dishes to serve at your Halloween party – a menu that, when first broadcast in 2014, gave rise to a true Emily Litella moment.

Finally, we learn the art of obituary-writing from the emissary of eternal rest, John Pope. For nearly 50 years, John has marked the deaths of countless New Orleanians with his well-researched and poignant obituaries. In 2015, he compiled an anthology of 123 of his most memorable obits into his classic volume, "Getting Off at Elysian Fields," which was recently released in paperback.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

The weather is cooling down here in Louisiana, which means outdoor events are heating up across our state. Out on the Cajun Prairie, Le Grand Hoorah, a festival dedicated to the music, food, and culture of the people of Acadiana, is coming up November 1st. The annual event turns 10 this year – and to celebrate, Louisiana Eats brings you highlights from our road trip to attend Le Grand Hoorah in 2017.

We begin in downtown Mamou, where our gracious host Valerie Cahill gives us a grand welcome at the historic Hotel Cazan. After grabbing breakfast down the road at the charming Krazy Cajun Cafe, we cross the street to visit Mamou's world-famous dancing and drinking destination, Fred's Lounge. Over spicy Bloody Marys and cheap beer, Camille Fonteneau talks to us about the important role the local AM radio station KVPI has played in the community and in her life.

On our way to La Grand Hoorah, we learn why Ville Platte holds the title of "Smoked Meat Capital of the World." We make a pit stop at Paul's Meat Market and Grocery, where many locals and out-of-towners purchase their meat. We then meet Kermit Miller, the man behind "the barbecue sauce with a Cajun accent," Jack Miller's Barbecue Sauce. Continuing a family tradition begun by his father Jack in 1955, Kermit's family recipe has found a following across the country.

Finally, we arrive at Chicot State Park, where hundreds of people from around Louisiana, and the world, were gathered for Le Grand Hoorah. We hear music performances by Cajun youngsters and meet the brains behind the festival, Gilbert "Winkie" Aucoin. Winkie explains why he is dedicated to the preservation of his culture. We also eat our weight in cracklins and boudin, thanks to the tireless efforts of individuals like Toby Ryder, an expert in the art of traditional Cajun boucherie.

We end our show by learning about NOLA Nite Market, another outdoor Louisiana event happening in Westwego on November 14th and 15th. The evening bazaar features a plethora of authentic Asian street foods created by local mom and pop restaurants – complete with live music and artisan wares. NOLA Nite Market founder Thuy Pham tells us what to expect at the nighttime fete.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

From the height of its popularity in the 19th century to its modern revival, absinthe has a long and storied history. A favorite pastime of artists, writers, and bohemians, the spirit known as "the green fairy" was subject to a near global ban for nearly a century due to myths about its hallucinogenic effects. Even after those bans were lifted around the turn of the millennium, its wild and mysterious reputation remains. On this week's show, we delve into the mythical world of this once illicit elixir.

We begin with Evan Rail, author of The Absinthe Forger. In this true crime novel, Evan follows the trail of a shadowy grifter who uses absinthe's mythical status to his own ends. Along the way, Evan gives readers a fascinating glimpse into the international underground absinthe scene that proliferated during the drink's prohibition.

Then, Marielle Songy joins us to discuss the history of an iconic New Orleans cocktail: the Absinthe Frappé. Marielle delves into the early days of the drink and its first home, the Old Absinthe House in the Crescent City.

Today, you can enjoy an Absinthe Frappé anywhere in the nation thanks in no small part to New Orleans environmental chemist Ted Breaux. Ted tells us about the two decades he spent analyzing pre-ban absinthe bottles to prove to the U.S. government that there was nothing dangerous about the fabled green liquor.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

With its proximity to Latin America, Louisiana has long enjoyed a treasure trove of delightful food and spirits from south of the border. This week, we take a long look at that bounty.

First, we hear from two-time James Beard Award winner Ted Genoways, author of Tequila Wars: Jose Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico. Ted tells the real story behind the rise of Mexico's tequila industry – a tale that involves building railroads, a world's fair, the Mexican Revolution, and even American Prohibition. At the center of the story is Jose Cuervo, who isn't just a brand, but a real person born in Mexico's Tequila Valley in the late 19th century. His investment, innovation, and some clever maneuverings ensured the industry's survival and eventual flourishing success. Surprisingly, Ted's book is the first biography written on the legendary tequila-maker.

Then, we hear from Jimena Urrutia and Marcelo Garcia, the talented husband-and-wife team behind one of New Orleans' most innovative eateries: Empanola. Together, they have transformed traditional empanadas into authentic tastes of Louisiana and a myriad of international flavors as well.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Located at the opposite ends of the country, the states of Louisiana and Maine appear to share little in common at first glance. But take a closer look, and you'll see two places that share a passion for their distinct seafood culture – each home to a galaxy of culinary rockstars who elevate their local cuisine. On this week's show, Louisiana Eats takes you with us as we travel to Maine to explore the food scene in the Pine Tree State.

We begin with Lady Oyster Tours and Tastings in Phippsburg, on the Casco Bay Peninsula. Owner and operator Virginia Shaffer is Maine's first "oyster sommelier," or certified oyster expert under the Oyster Master Guild. Throughout the year, Virginia and her company educate tourists on the local oyster industry, offering tastings and boat tours of oyster farming operations. She tells us about Maine's rapidly growing oyster industry, before Captain Joe Jerome steers us to get a first-hand look at an oyster farm.

Then, we travel up the coast to meet Melissa Kelly, the first two-time recipient of the James Beard award for Best Chef Northeast. Melissa tells us about her Rockland farm-to-table restaurant, Primo and her remarkable life in food. We also meet farm manager Abigail Gallagher, who gives us a tour of the multi-acre farm surrounding the restaurant.

Next, we visit the small town of Bath to dine in a restaurant overlooking the Kennebec River called OystHERS Raw Bar and Bubby. The seasonal raw bar is owned by sisters Sadia and Lauren Crosby, both lobstermen's daughters from nearby Georgetown Island. Sadia owns a sea farm, where the house oysters are produced. Lauren tells us the story behind OystHERS, which serves up fresh bivalves from local female-owned and family-owned farms.

And who should we run into there, but Susan Spicer! The New Orleans chef tells us what she's cooking while cruising up the Atlantic coast.

We end our trip at Browne Trading Market, a magical food and drink emporium in Portland. Since 1991, Browne Trading Company has been the supplier of seafood, caviar, and other delicacies to an exclusive restaurant chef customer base. Among our discoveries there were percebes – also known as gooseneck or turtle-claw barnacles – harvested on the Iberian Peninsula and exclusively available from Browne Trading. Specialty foods manager Michael Rigo explains why the job of harvesting these edible crustaceans is not for the faint of heart.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

From crumbly cornbread that perfectly complements a home-cooked meal, to warm cookies that can make you forget any problem, baked treats are key to happy eaters everywhere. This week, we celebrate the delicious half-science, half-art that is baking!

First, we hear from our old friend, food writer Anne Byrn. Her latest cookbook, Baking in the American South, is a beautifully photographed tome, featuring hundreds of mouth-watering recipes along with the history behind each one of them.

Next, baker Jim Lahey talks about the 15th anniversary edition of his ground-breaking cookbook My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method. Jim began a bread-making revolution decades ago with a Le Creuset pot, just a handful of ingredients, and, most importantly, no need for kneading!

Finally, we chat with Renato Poliafito, owner of Brooklyn bakery and café Ciao, Gloria, and author of Dolci! American Baking with an Italian Accent. In his newest book, the two-time James Beard Award nominee set out to capture the flavors of Italy stretching from the Old World to the New.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

New Orleans has long been known for its Spanish, French, and African influences, so it can be easy to overlook the role the Chinese have played in our culture and cuisine since the mid-1800s. On this week's show, we explore the Chinese in the Crescent City – yesterday and today.

First, we hear from the Historic New Orleans Collection's Winston Ho, who fills us in on the captivating history of the Chinese community here. He talks about the earliest restaurants that cropped up during Reconstruction, the Crescent City's short-lived Chinatown, and the substantial Chinese impact on the local seafood industry.

Then, we fast forward to the present day to learn about Miss Shirley's Chinese Restaurant on Magazine Street – named best new restaurant in Louisiana by Southern Magazine in 2024. We visit with the restaurant's namesake, the vivacious Miss Shirley Lee, whose Royal China Restaurant in Metairie drew customers from all over the metro area for four decades. We chat with Miss Shirley about why her retirement only lasted a year – and meet her daughter, Carling, who is carrying her parents' traditions into the next generation.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Twenty years ago, on August 29th, 2005, Hurricane Katrina violently swept through New Orleans. The storm and subsequent levee failures brought chaos and devastation to the city and surrounding areas. On this week's show, as we mark two decades since Katrina, we explore how New Orleans residents and businesses were able to respond quickly and creatively to rebuild our city.

We begin with Richard McCarthy, co-founder and former executive director of Market Umbrella – and its flagship, the Crescent City Farmers Market. Richard and host Poppy Tooker reflect on their experiences during those uncertain days following the storm and the grassroots effort that led to the market reopening just ten weeks later.

Next, we turn to the late New Orleans icon Leah Chase. We revisit inspirational conversations we had with the beloved chef at Dooky Chase Restaurant about the unexpected gifts of Katrina.

Finally, as Natco Food Service celebrates its centennial this year, we learn about one of the most difficult chapters in its history. Family proprietors Anne Babin and her brother John Lalla tell us the story of what happened at their meat-filled facility in the hurricane's aftermath and how the company bounced back.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Every Labor Day weekend, tens of thousands of members of the LGBTQ community from around the world gather in New Orleans for the five-day party known as Southern Decadence. To celebrate, this week, we bring you stories of culinarians expressing queerness through food.

First, we hear from John Birdsall, author of "What Is Queer Food? How We Served a Revolution." He tells us about the often-unknown gay influence on modern American cuisine and some of the hidden heroes who have contributed so much to how and what we eat. And, perhaps most importantly, he answers the titular question of his book.

Then, we catch up with our New Orleans friends, Kitten N' Lou. You may know them as the couple who put on spectacular shows that combine drag, dance, burlesque, and a theater. By day, they're the owners of Chance In Hell SnoBalls in the New Orleans' Bywater neighborhood. We visit the dynamic duo, who have moved their operation from a front porch pandemic project to a popular brick-and-mortar shop.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

In 1946, a New Orleans bar owner named Owen Brennan opened Brennan's Vieux Carré on Bourbon Street. Fresh out of high school, his sister Ella became his de facto manager there. Just before Owen's untimely death a few years later, plans were in place to move the restaurant to Royal Street, where the Brennan family dynasty truly began.

Today, Brennan's Restaurant on Royal Street is grander than ever – all thanks to the loving care of Owen and Ella's nephew, Ralph Brennan. Named one of the 20 most influential restaurant people in the country by Restaurant Business Magazine, Ralph runs some of the city's finest dining destinations. There's Ralph's on the Park, Red Fish Grill, the Napoleon House and Café NOMA, just to name a few. On this week's show, we sit down with Ralph Brennan himself to discuss his life in food.

Then, we speak with Braithe Tidwell, the corporate beverage director for the Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group. Braithe helped the wine program at Brennan's regain its status on the Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning list. Most recently, Braithe collaborated with Piper Heidsieck to create a bespoke Brennan's champagne.

Next, we learn about Brennan's annual tradition of hosting the "Slowest Second Line on Earth," complete with ten terrific turtles and a rapping judge.

Finally, we step inside Brennan's kitchen for an unforgettable breakfast. For their poached eggs alone, the restaurant goes through over half a million eggs each year. Executive Chef Ryan Hacker shows us how his team perfectly poaches hundreds of eggs at a time to feed crowds of hungry morning diners.

For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.