“The medicine man sits before a pile of hot coals spread out on the compacted red earth floor of his Hogan – the traditional home of the Navajo. “This is Native American church,” he tells me, pulling shiny black arrowheads and Golden Eagle feathers from his wooden medicine box, and twisting a thick translucent crystal before the flames.

Sweat beads on my forehead: medicine men are believed to see premonitions in the burning coals that divine the nature of a patient’s affliction. His eyes dilate – “I see a spider,” he says, “I see a dead man.” 

A few miles away we are surrounded by the detritus of modern America but here, in Navajo country, it’s as if I’ve slipped through the cracks into another world entirely.”

In 2013, I spent a week living on the Navajo reservation with three local families. I wanted to understand the real Native America, beyond the caricatures and cliches so often portrayed in popular culture. 

One night, I was invited into the home of a Medicine Man to take part in a traditional healing ceremony. It was one of the most powerful and moving experiences of my life. This is the story I wrote about that experience, and I dedicate it to those three families who welcomed me into their lives and trusted me with the honor of sharing it with you. 

FIND OUT MORE

Discover Navajo: if you want to visit the Navajo Nation is a way that benefits the local tribal people economically and through employment this is a great resource. It’s got lots of great ideas for native led tours and experiences that will really make the culture of the navajo Nation come alive.  discovernavajo.com

Ira Vandever, my guide and host, is involved in various Navajo community projects and is one of the most inspiring people I’ve ever met. Connect with him on Instagram: @navajohemp2020 

NATIVE AMERICAN HERITAGE MONTH

This episode is the first in our month-long series celebrating Native American Heritage Month. Over the years, I’ve been lucky to have so many incredible experiences with indigenous peoples around the world. I’ve learnt so much from them, and wanted to do something  that will hopefully inspire you to visit tribal owned tourism businesses and be inspired too. 

Find out more at: NativeAmericanHeritageMonth.gov

#NativeAmericanHeritageMonth

#NativeAmericanHeritage

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PODCAST RECOMMENDATION

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This week's show is supported by the new Smart Travel Podcast. Travel smarter — and spend less — with help from NerdWallet. Check out Smart Travel here. 

CREDITS

Armchair Explorer is produced by ⁠Armchair Productions⁠. Aaron Millar wrote and presented the show, Charles Tyrie did the audio editing and sound design. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit ⁠megaphone.fm/adchoices⁠.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices