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Imagine a world where waterproof/breathable materials really work, where there is mosquito proof apparel, or where fabrics can harvest power like a battery. These (and others) are innovations that Dr. Amanda Mills and her colleagues are working on at the NC State Wilson College of Textiles. 

Despite their groundbreaking research, they're not hiding their results in an underground lab. In fact, NC State offers courses for graduate, undergrad, and even online public extensions for makers everywhere. We chat about these topics and a lot more as we bring the podcast back to school. 

NOT Black Friday Sale 2024

• https://ripstopbytheroll.com/pages/not-black-friday-sale-2024

Links

• Shop all   new products
• For information about our undergraduate programs, graduate programs, and K-12 camps
• Information about our short courses
• Information about our Senior Design course
• NC State Instagram, YouTube, and LinkedIn accounts

Chapters
00:00- Welcome to NC State's Textile Community
03:07- Exploring the Wilson College of Textiles
06:10- Reviving Textile Manufacturing in America
09:12- Innovative Facilities and Equipment
12:10- Industry Collaboration and Production Capabilities
14:47- The Future of Textiles: Technology and Innovation
17:55- Career Paths in Textiles
21:02- Resources for Learning About Textiles
23:59- Exciting Projects and Innovations at Wilson College
29:44- Innovations in Textile Development
30:47- The Importance of Industry Partnerships
34:15- Integrating Real-World Experience in Education
36:57- Career Paths for Textile Students
38:20- Sustainability in Textiles
40:44- Cutting-Edge Textile Research
46:16- Exciting Materials and Future Innovations
49:41- Personal Applications and Hobbies in Textiles
51:29- The Quest for Waterproof Textiles

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Whether you're using a dining room table or moving into your own shop, the right space makes all the difference. In this episode, we're back with Daniel McKewen to talk about building your MYOG workshop. We'll give tips for anyone from weekend hobbyists to cottage companies looking for faster production.

Listen to hear about: 

• The three machine every maker needs
• How your space should be laid out
• Unconventional tools that offer big time help
• Recommendations on pattern storage 

Chapters
00:00- Introduction and Recap
02:12- Understanding Your Maker Identity
10:43- Choosing the Right Sewing Machines
16:32- Setting Up Your Workspace
27:03- Essential Furniture for Makers
39:46- Tools of the Trade
47:52- Non-Traditional Tools and Hacks
58:36- Creating a Productive Environment
01:05:45- Entertainment and Flow in Making

Items: 

• Scotch Tape Cutter
• Double Sided Tape

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It's time to think about staying warm on those cold backcountry nights. In this episode, we are talking about how to make a down quilt. Our guest has a lot of experience with down projects and is going to give us his best tips and tricks so you can save some hassle. 

Listen to hear more about: 

• How to make a reusable quilt pattern
• Material recommendations 
• Which fill power is preferred 
• Tips on sizing your panels 
• Easiest features to include

Products Mentioned in the episode: 

Check out our one pager on How to Make a Down Quilt for product links and a list and list of steps.

Find Martin on Instagram @MontMolar

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Challenge Sailcloth has been taking the industry by storm with polarizing materials like ULTRA Weave, ECOPAK, ULTRA TNT and others. We sit down with Wes Hatcher (Director of Challenge Outdoor Sales and Development) and talk about what went wrong, what's going well, and what it's like designing outdoor materials for a living.

Wes is a fascinating guy who has been in the outdoor textiles industry for a long time. His career has taken a series of exciting turns. Starting with DSM when they owned the Dyneema® Group, working in design, and now working with Challenge Outdoor he has a unique knowledge set that no one can replicate.

Listen to this episode to hear: 

• Seam elongation on ULTRA materials 
• The challenges they are facing with organizational change 
• How Wes worked at Dyneema® 
• What to expect with film wear on the material backing 

 

Products Mentioned: 

• ECOPAK
• ULTRA 
• DTRS75

Timeline:

00:00- Introduction and Wes Hatcher's Background
01:29- Life at Challenge and the Benefits of Remote Work
04:52- Working with Global Teams and Customers
08:18- Wes Hatcher's Non-Traditional Career Path
17:27- Following in Hale Wolokoff's Footsteps
21:02- The Art of Color Selection in Fabric Production
25:35- The Secret to Choosing Great Colors
33:49- Understanding Ultra TNT Fabric
40:25- Repairing Outdoor Gear with Tenacious Tape
43:45- The Potential of Ultra TNT Fabric
49:53- Understanding the Performance of Tents and Shelters
55:09- The Correct Way to Use Tape
01:02:41- Coating Ultra and Other Materials
01:08:40- Is Ultra Overkill?
01:11:12- Future Advancements in Fabric Technology

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Overview:
Pattern building can be tricky. Despite the perils, knowing how to make a pattern is a really good skill for makers to possess. Through good patterning skills you can start to make more featured projects, get a lot more specific on your panel dimensions, and be more confident in your designs.

Listen to this episode to hear about: 

• The three methods we recommend at-home makers try
• Pros and cons for each method 
• Tools needed to build patterns 
• Tips and tricks to get the best result

Methods: 

• Digital Drafting 
• Deconstruction  
• Tracing 

Links:

• Project Worksheet (To-Make List)
• Zip Works 
• How to make a bag in Clo3D by Steven Jones (Bag Buff) 
• Learn MYOG 
• Canvasworker.com Conceal Pack making class
• Carolina Textile District – many resources available
• The Jason Of All Trades - Duffle Bag Made From Paper
• Bag Buff – How to Make a Sewing Pattern in Illustrator

*This is a re-release from Ep. 74*

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Sewing is a skill that can take thousands of hours to hone. We can't replace time on the machine but we can give you helpful tips that should cut out a few hours and a few costly errors from your future projects. Listen to this episode to hear 10 tips to level up your sewing and design skills.

Skills that we discuss:
1. How to sew circles that don't pucker
2. Tips on binding
3. Where to sew on your zipper tape
4. How to get good at hemming
5. How to get a crisp corner
6. Sewing multiple layers
7. Working with stretchy fabrics
8. Working with slippery fabrics
9. Dialing in your stitch tension
10. Add a lining to your project

Sewing Start-Up Checklist

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We love shedding the light on cottage companies that you may have never heard of. This week we are talking with Kelsey, founder and owner of KEL Tech gear. A company that makes durable, colorful, and fun every day bags. Listen to this episode to hear tips about working with thicker fabrics, how to find inspiration as an at-home maker, insight for time management, and why community makes a business successful.

Links
https://kel-tech-gear.myshopify.com/
@kel-techgear


Chapters

00:00- From Early Sewing Days to Caltech Gear
05:37- The Journey of a Tactile Learner
08:53- Being a Woman-Owned and Indigenous-Made Company
13:20- Pros and Cons of Running Your Own Business
19:42- Finding Inspiration and Creating Everyday Gear
31:57- The Durability and Customization of Cordura
35:16- The Influence of Location on Design
38:18- Managing Time for Custom Orders and Market Stock
40:21- Favorite YouTube Channels for Working
44:49- The Functionality of Different Sewing Machines
48:56- Tips for Sewing with Cordura
51:17- Desire for More Color Options and Softer Fabrics

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In this episode we are talking about MYOG monstrosities, DIY disappointments, hand-made horrors. We’re reflecting on listener submitted stories and sharing some of our own in this 100th episode celebration. We're sharing the mics today with good friends of the podcast, Francesca Hall and Matt Evans. As we celebrate Ep. 100 we want to sincerely thank everyone who has ever listened to the podcast. You, the listener makes all of this possible and we can't thank you enough.

Show Notes

• Discount Code: RBTR100 (Ends August 17th, 2024 at 11:59 PM EST)
• Past Episodes with Matt Evans
  • Ep. 28 - Maker Sew Off: One Year Anniversary
  • Ep. 81 - 12 Tips from Pro DIY Experience
  • Bonus Episode: Community Maker Challenge
• Past Episodes with Francesca Hall
  • Ep. 65 - Womens Roundtable
  • Ep. 78 - Where to Start Making Apparel
  • Ep. 81 - 12 Tips from Pro DIY Experience
• Aluminum Frame Stays from SOCKDOLAGER
• 5.2 oz AIRWAVE™ 4-Way Stretch Ripstop Nylon
  
  

Sewing Start-Up Checklist

Chapters
00:00- Introduction and Guest Introductions
01:26- Category 1: Construction Fails
04:08- Category 2: Rigidity and Materials
08:38- Category 3: Reinforcing Seams
13:35- Category 4: Laminate Fabrics
17:27- Category 5: Creative Solutions
20:05- Category 6: Backup Plans
27:55- Testing Gear on Short Trips
29:19- Choosing the Right Closures
30:35- Using Stretchy and Recoverable Fabrics
33:45- Lessons Learned from Breaking Sewing Machines
44:04- Avoiding Mistakes in Sewing Projects
48:59- The Value of Making Mistakes
54:16- Learning from Sewing Mishaps and Injuries
57:00- The Importance of Planning and Prototyping
01:00:54- Balancing Perfection and Enjoyment in Making
01:04:17- The Value of Community and Shared Experiences
01:20:40- Expressing Gratitude for the Podcast

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Zpacks is well known for a lot of things. One of which is that they produce all of their gear here in the US. What this means is that they need to hire and train nearly 100 people to make all of this gear. In this episode, we talk to Rob Kibitz, Training Manager at Zpacks about the course that he designed, the techniques they teach, and the attributes he looks for in a sewing machine operator.

Check out all that Zpacks does here.

Submit your story for Ep. 100 here!


Chapters

00:00- Introduction and Rob's Role at Zpacks
01:02- Learning to Sew and Joining Zpacks
06:09- Challenges in Training Sewing Machine Operators
07:50- The Sewing Trail Map at Zpacks
10:36- The Foundation Phase of the Sewing Trail Map
25:13- Attributes of Proficient Sewers and Funny Stories
27:52- Handling Different Materials in Sewing
38:19- The Training Process and Production Goals at Zpacks
42:46- Challenges in Sewing: Curves, Zippers, and Webbing
44:49- Teaching Thread Tension: Visual Cues and Adjustments
50:34- The Importance of Humility and Pride in Sewing
57:10- The Role of Tools, Equipment, and Goal Setting
01:05:31- Pride in Craftsmanship and the Impact on Customers

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In this episode we talk about how to make your first tarp. We'll go over popular materials, necessary components, and construction techniques. You won't become a shelter master after this one episode, but it's enough to get you started.

Overview:
Covering everything from hammocks and ground shelters to multi-use tarps. They share tips for beginners and discuss various styles like flat, two-panel, and ground tarps, weighing the pros and cons of each. Materials and components are a key focus, with the hosts explaining the differences between fabrics like SilPoly and PU, and their ideal uses. They also touch on netting options, emphasizing factors like weight, durability, and cost. For tie-outs, lightweight webbing or grosgrain are recommended. The episode wraps up with a chat on seam sealing and the best types of seam sealers to use.

Submit Your Story for EP. 100 to [email protected]

Free 'How to Make a Tarp' PDF Download available here

Fabrics 

• 1.1 oz Silpoly XL
• MEMBRANE Silpoly 
• 1.1 oz ECO Silpoly
• 1.1 oz MTN Silnylon
• 1.1 oz Silnylon
• 0.51 oz DCF 
• 0.67 oz DCF 
• 0.8 oz DCF
• 1.0 oz DCF
• 0.67 oz Noseeum
• 0.9 oz Noseeum
• 0.7 oz MONOLITE
• 1.0 oz MONOLITE

Hardware: 

• D-Ring
• Beastee D-Ring
• Tri-Ring
• Grosgrain
• Webbing
• Shock Cord

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