We are back with fashion journalist and critic Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Spring / Summer 2027 men’s season at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan Fashion Week(end), and Paris Fashion Week. We talk about why many big fashion houses are starting to look like Acne Studios, our most and least favorite shows, why Lemaire is an exemplary world builder, and conversely why there are so few designers left who built a coherent aesthetic universe. Also, find out why Philippe is starting to sound like Eugene (hint, it’s the Japanese brands, obviously), and why the fashion calendar needs a change.

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On this episode we host the American artist Banks Violette. While this is not an episode about fashion per se, Violette and StyleZeitgeist have much in common culturally. He has been working for over two decades at the intersection of fine art and youth culture, making compelling work that deals with the dark side of the American society and the counterculture it produces. We talk about growing up in Reagan's America, channeling teenage rage, the New York City of the early 2000s and Violette's – and his compatriots, that included Dash Snow and Dan Colen – problematic relationship with sudden fame, his retreat from the art scene and his return, a collaboration with Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme and Celine, and much more.

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This special episode of the StyleZeitgeist podcast was recorded live at MoMu, Fashion Museum Antwerp, as part of the opening weekend program for The Antwerp Six exhibition on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of their first collective showcase. 

Just like for many fashion enthusiasts, The Antwerp Six loom large in Eugene’s and Philippe’s imagination. On this sprawling episode they talk about how the Six have influenced their understanding of fashion, about their role in expanding the boundaries of the fashion system, their spirit of independence, innovation, but also pragmatism and professionalism, and the indelible imprint the group has left on fashion. 

Eugene and Philippe touch upon both the personal and the professional views on the work of the Six, the importance of fashion retail as a support system that has allowed the group to flourish, and the significance of forming a collective even if its members have distinct styles.

The Antwerp Six exhibition is on view at MoMu through January 17th, 2027. We encourage you to visit it.

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We are back with the fashion critic and writer Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Fall / Winter 2026 women’s season. Eugene and Philippe discuss Demna’s runway debut at Gucci, the sophomore outings of Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, J.W. Anderson at Dior, Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, and much more. We talk about the killer collection Daniel Lee presented at Burberry, and offer differing takes on Prada, as well.

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On this episode we speak with Jeppe Ugelvig, the editor of Viscose journal, and a scholar, writer, and curator who works at the intersection of fashion and art. We talk about the fall of the fashion media and why independent media and criticism are paramount if we are to have a thriving fashion ecosystem, the problematic relationship between luxury fashion and its clients, the no less problematic relationship between fashion and art, and the surprisingly upbeat prognosis about where the next wave of creativity and authenticity will come from, because it must.

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On this episode we discuss the Fall / Winter 2026 season with the journalist Philippe Pourhashemi. We talk about nice clothes versus fashion, the trio of shows at Pitti Uomo, the increasing irrelevance of Milan, about auteurs like Rick Owens and Rei Kawakubo, who all delivered strong collections, why Sacai keeps going from strength to strength, why Dior and Louis Vuitton continue to disappoint, and much more. Eugene and Philippe offer contrasting opinions on Prada Saint Laurent, and Dries Van Noten, and also discuss the continuing appeal of smaller brands they saw at the showrooms in Paris; Mordecai being the standout for both.

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Intern Pierre (not his real name) is a professional investor who runs an eponymous Substack where he deftly dissects the smoke and mirrors put up by the luxury sector. His specialty is sharing access to privileged, investment grade information that lay people are usually not privy to. On his first ever podcast appearance we discuss the importance of reading a financial statement, on the insolvable paradox of exclusivity and constant growth, on the unraveling of the luxury fashion narrative, and much more. 

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In this two-part episode Eugene Rabkin and Philippe Pourhashemi discuss this past season of many debuts, whether the so-called "great reset" was successful, and address two main narratives that are gripping the fashion media, the power and tact (or lack thereof) of the sideline fashion commentariat, and whether designers are out of touch with the needs of modern women.

In episode one Eugene and Philippe discuss New York, London, and Milan, the debuts of Demna at Gucci, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Simone Belotti at Jil Sander, and Dario Vitale at Versace (pronounced, Ver-says) and the democratization of fashion commentary. In episode two they talk about J.W. Anderson's first outing at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Duran Lantink at Gaultier, Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, and sophomore efforts by Michael Rider at Celine and Sarah Burton at Givenchy, among other shows. They also discuss the alleged misogyny on part of some designers. 

It's a lot, hence why we broke up this podcast into two episodes. Substack and Patreon subscribers will have access to both parts early and at once. Consider becoming a paid subscriber; your contribution supports independent fashion journalism, or you can read another article about Kylie Jenner.

Support the show

In this two-part episode Eugene Rabkin and Philippe Pourhashemi discuss this past season of many debuts, whether the so-called "great reset" was successful, and address two main narratives that are gripping the fashion media, the power and tact (or lack thereof) of the sideline fashion commentariat, and whether designers are out of touch with the needs of modern women.

In episode one Eugene and Philippe discuss New York, London, and Milan, the debuts of Demna at Gucci, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Simone Belotti at Jil Sander, and Dario Vitale at Versace (pronounced, Ver-says) and the democratization of fashion commentary. In episode two they talk about J.W. Anderson's first outing at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Duran Lantink at Gaultier, Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, and sophomore efforts by Michael Rider at Celine and Sarah Burton at Givenchy, among other shows. They also discuss the alleged misogyny on part of some designers. 

It's a lot, hence why we broke up this podcast into two episodes. Substack and Patreon subscribers will have access to both parts early and at once. Consider becoming a paid subscriber; your contribution supports independent fashion journalism, or you can read another article about Kylie Jenner.

Support the show

Our guest on this episode is Gene Pressman, of the great retail family that made Barneys into a New York fashion institution that has become part of the city lore and that has left an indelible mark on fashion itself. Barneys was a trailblazer, a temple for true fashion cognoscenti. Gene's new book, out September 2nd is called "They All Came to Barneys: A Personal History of the World's Greatest Store." We see no lies; Barneys was the world's greatest store, and we all came there. 

Gene walks us through the ark of his career, through the changes he has witnessed in the store and in New York City since the '60s and through the '90s. He talks about the seismic changes in fashion he has witnessed firsthand, such as the rise of Giorgio Armani, the ascendance of Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, the wonder of the Antwerp Six, and his long-lasting friendship with Azzedine Alaia. We also discuss the current state of fashion and retail, and much, much more. 

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