THE FASHION ARCHIVES

it took me one month to edit this episode, which i filmed after coming back from my fashion month tour around europe.

i wasn’t exhausted necessarily, i was a little confused by all my thoughts. they were coming out like vomit in this episode, so i had to find a decent order and a narrative consecutio temporum.

but anyways, a couple of things that will be mentioned here:

is the makeup getting more press coverage than the clothes at rick owens? (rhetorical question)

building your access in fashion is more useful than pretending to have it

i am craving seniority

ann demeulemeester’s friends of the house

fashion roadman and i fangirling over alessandro michele at the jil sander show and I can't believed it's not mentioned anywhere here

pretending you’ve reached your goals won’t get you closer to reaching them

accepting where you are and doing what you can with what you have is so me

forgot to talk about my fav thing on the feed this fashion month: bliss foster's interview with rick

FIND ME AT chez.amelie

John Galliano’s 2027 met costume Institute retrospective was announced and then cancelled just weeks later (SURPRISE SURPRISE) but the backlash around galliano was never exactly unpredictable so why did the met approve the exhibition in the first place????in this comeback episode we look at the John Galliano Met controversy, the unusually early announcement of John Galliano (MONTHS IN ADVANCE): horizons, the met’s consultations before the exhibition was announced, the backlash that followed, and the bigger question of whether a museum can historicise an important designer without also appearing to rehabilitate him.my theory is basically that galliano was used as a trojan horse for something we are yet to learn about

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glenn martens came to conquer:

fall winter is set to be the never-seen-before at margiela:

mixing artisanal with pretaporter +

showing off location in shanghai +

an itinerary of exhibitions in china +

online access to exclusive margiela documentation

WHAT IS GOING ON!

BRB with a proper report on margiela's fall winter 2026 straight from shanghai

find the dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/q9xdsiuqxtwhm6mat8820/AB8_5H3F1_YAKeUaJ7_d1nE?rlkey=09jhiuc26dqq8pt6ix437tanv&e=2&st=pye072fr&dl=0

i went in for a collection preview at haderlump, honestly one of the strongest up-and-coming names on the berlin schedule and consistently one of the most attended shows every season.

proof that haderlump is having a real moment right now is the decision to open a physical store, at a time when even some of berlin’s oldest and coolest fashion spaces are struggling or closing altogether.

I visited the new space and previewed their winter 2026 collection called VARIUS, inspired by marlene dietrich.

the collection leans heavily into historical references with lace and draping and a softer approach, it makes a clear shift away from the brutalist berlin coded vibe that has been haderlump’s hallmark for since its beginnings.

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FIND HADERLUMP HERE

https://www.instagram.com/haderlump.berlin

filmed by @varvara_film

new year new season they say

WELCOME TO THE FIRST EPISODE OF SEASON 2: we are exploring a parallelism that might be in my head only but I wanted to check if someone else sees this - it's a social experiment.

DID DEMNA GET INSPIRED BY THE REAL TRUE CRIME STORY OF GUCCI'S DYNASTY for his LA FAMIGLIA ss26 collection?

YOU ANSWER NOW, I've said enough.

Video production by @varvara.film on insta

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GIVEAWAY RULES BELOW• follow the fashion archives on spotify • rate the podcast on spotify• comment below your favorite piece• share this video to your insta stories + tag me so I can see itother useful information!!!the rick owens' cookies recipe for 100 pieces:INGREDIENTS 450 g butter800 g sugar4 eggs 950 g persimmon pulp1,000 g flour10 g salt10 g cinnamon20 g baking powder10 g baking soda240 g nuts150 g raisins80 g coconut flakes160 g datesPROCEDUREcream butter, sugar, eggsadd persimmon pulpmix dry ingredients separatelycombine wet + dryfold in nuts, raisins, coconut, datesportion ~5–7 g per cookiebake at 180–182°C for 29 minutesthe villeroy and boch boule

https://rstyle.me/+NQETHe_0_ii3JXAN2Xm-QA

in this episode im taking dario vitale's exit at versace as an excuse to do a little bit of a brainstorming around the history of the prada group.

i keep saying this but the speculations behind this move are way too good, and honestly the more i look at it the less random it feels ngl.we start in 1913 with the fratelli prada in the galleria, move through miuccia + bertelli turning a luggage shop into a cultural machine, then zoom in on the empire-building years:

when prada bought jil sander and helmut lang and almost broke itself in the process.

from there, we look at dario vitale’s 14 years inside miu miu, his impact on the brand’s image and insane growth, and finally land on my three conspiracy theories about why he was let go from versace right after prada bought the house.

DO NOT FORGET the next episode it's gonna be our yearly giveaway

FIND ME HERE!!!!!!!!!

YOUTI https://youtu.be/OfMSv7zVnQgIG https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieSUBSTI https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/CICI [email protected]

kelly cutrone is reality tv lore

one of the few people in fashion who understood that power, communication and a little fear can shape an entire generation.

long before influencer culture she built a world where honesty mattered more than likability.

cheapeau?

00:00 — intro

01:17 — who is kelly cutrone

05:52 — the anti-influencer before influencing

12:04 — influencers as fashion’s frankenstein

16:40 — fashion criticism in 2025

but I was thinking: would someone like kelly cutrone, stern, sharp, villain coded in a devil wears prada way still be accepted TODAY - in my today's mind she sounds blabla-ly and random not/gonna/lie

in this episode i look at the version of her the internet remembers and the one the industry quietly respects.

her rise from the hills and the city, the pedagogy behind her toughness but also her latest interview here

https://open.spotify.com/episode/7KhErSUR8EYG4MTGU5ugin?si=5a86881483614096

we also talk about influencers as fashion’s frankenstein, created by US and then accepted by the industry and then blamed for everything, and where fashion criticism sits today now that creators hold more power than hisotrical institutions like vogue etc

(IMO - no need to add that)

GO UP AND RATE THIS PODCAST XDDDDDDD

i had a massive emotional hangover after my book launch party at paris fashion week ss26 and i let one hateful comment enter my veins like salt on an open wound

I did a lot of work on myself to not let anything get to me and I am proud to say I built a very thick skin but my impostor syndrome triggered me into letting my guard down.

never give this much power to ANYONE let alone a dücking stranger on the internet

I won't let anything cancel WHAT WE DID IN PARIS

this woman right here is too stunned to speak: hundreds of my beloved archivists showed up on a rainy and super busy friday during paris fashion week - the busiest fws of them all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

H O W

W O W

this is pushing me to invest so much more in tfa - 2026 is coming with a BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMM

con amore

Amelie

FIND ME HERE

yt https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

ig https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

substi https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

cici [email protected]

ciaoooooo

things i still want to buy in 2025

fewer pieces, stronger ones is the overall approach:

usable, worn hard, quietly rare; a slight avant-garde tilt. written like a confession and that starts to feel like a real plan to me.

rick, finallyyyyy: the prong topi (here it is)

I finally put my hands on the prong top.

immediate posture shift. stretch-jersey that locks without strangling (IMPORTANT); a ruched core that pulls the eye to the bust; that unmistakable “prong” geometry up front so clean, almost architectural, held by internal structure so it doesn’t wilt after two wears xddddd

matte surface.

ive been into matte anything matte nails matte lips matte fabrics.

anyways this top reads like minimal armor under a leather jacket or blazer - you choose - and becomes the whole thesis with a long skirt and boots

JADOREEEE

on the other hand my personal bag agenda is blurry:

i’m still deciding between “forever workhorse” and “beautiful problem.”

three directions keep looping.

1. givenchy pandora: the bag that refuses to sit up straight. (here) introduced in 2009 under riccardo tisci, the pandora arrived when everything was boxy BUT polite; it chose to slouch on purpose. a cuboid that collapses—diagonal double zip, top handle, long strap—you carry it like you mean it. anatomical in the best way: seams where a body bends, leather that looks better beat-up. i want the medium in lived-in black (wrinkled), the kind that already speaks in past tense. it holds a day. it holds a camera. does it hold my computer tho?? comment below if you have nay experience with it whatsoever.
2. prada, nappa + fringe (name a better combo) (here) movement is the point. prada’s nappa fringe lives where discipline meets drama (where miu miu meets prada almost - the who parts of miuccia's heart) the mid-2000s gave full-fringe top handles that turned cult, and the language keeps resurfacing: fringe slipping onto structured frames, fringe reprogramming “polite” shapes into something kinetic.
3. celine phantom remembered + revised: the phantom (here) is a memory with wings. phoebe’s 2011 icon (well, one of them) with michael rider steering celine, certain codes feel re-tuned. early peeks suggest a phantom proportion-checked for now—cleaner, cooler, less noise, more presence. i’m hunting a sharp vintage phantom while i watch the refresh land. heritage in motion WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

perfume is part of the fitscent is styling. the air around you is part of the silhouette. i’m leaning darker this year: incense, lacquered wood, cold stone after rain.

filippo sorcinelli keeps circling back: sacred craft translated to skin.

loewe perfumes are an easy bet ALWAYS:

the two I am mixing at the moment are the solo elixir (here) and agua (here)

the open tab section: it’s admin. tabs, screenshots, notes: i dm sellers for corner photos—corners tell the truth. i check weight because my shoulder complains. i watch how it slumps on a chair. i look at zipper teeth, lining wear, hardware wobble. measurements count more than you think. if it solves the “i have nothing to wear” eight times out of ten, it stays; if it doesn’t, close tab and move on.

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also here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJyYw8NRueo&t=557s