i went in for a collection preview at haderlump, honestly one of the strongest up-and-coming names on the berlin schedule and consistently one of the most attended shows every season.

proof that haderlump is having a real moment right now is the decision to open a physical store, at a time when even some of berlin’s oldest and coolest fashion spaces are struggling or closing altogether.

I visited the new space and previewed their winter 2026 collection called VARIUS, inspired by marlene dietrich.

the collection leans heavily into historical references with lace and draping and a softer approach, it makes a clear shift away from the brutalist berlin coded vibe that has been haderlump’s hallmark for since its beginnings.

FIND ME HERE

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

FIND HADERLUMP HERE

https://www.instagram.com/haderlump.berlin

filmed by @varvara_film

new year new season they say

WELCOME TO THE FIRST EPISODE OF SEASON 2: we are exploring a parallelism that might be in my head only but I wanted to check if someone else sees this - it's a social experiment.

DID DEMNA GET INSPIRED BY THE REAL TRUE CRIME STORY OF GUCCI'S DYNASTY for his LA FAMIGLIA ss26 collection?

YOU ANSWER NOW, I've said enough.

Video production by @varvara.film on insta

FIND ME HERE:

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

GIVEAWAY RULES BELOW• follow the fashion archives on spotify • rate the podcast on spotify• comment below your favorite piece• share this video to your insta stories + tag me so I can see itother useful information!!!the rick owens' cookies recipe for 100 pieces:INGREDIENTS 450 g butter800 g sugar4 eggs 950 g persimmon pulp1,000 g flour10 g salt10 g cinnamon20 g baking powder10 g baking soda240 g nuts150 g raisins80 g coconut flakes160 g datesPROCEDUREcream butter, sugar, eggsadd persimmon pulpmix dry ingredients separatelycombine wet + dryfold in nuts, raisins, coconut, datesportion ~5–7 g per cookiebake at 180–182°C for 29 minutesthe villeroy and boch boule

https://rstyle.me/+NQETHe_0_ii3JXAN2Xm-QA

in this episode im taking dario vitale's exit at versace as an excuse to do a little bit of a brainstorming around the history of the prada group.

i keep saying this but the speculations behind this move are way too good, and honestly the more i look at it the less random it feels ngl.we start in 1913 with the fratelli prada in the galleria, move through miuccia + bertelli turning a luggage shop into a cultural machine, then zoom in on the empire-building years:

when prada bought jil sander and helmut lang and almost broke itself in the process.

from there, we look at dario vitale’s 14 years inside miu miu, his impact on the brand’s image and insane growth, and finally land on my three conspiracy theories about why he was let go from versace right after prada bought the house.

DO NOT FORGET the next episode it's gonna be our yearly giveaway

FIND ME HERE!!!!!!!!!

YOUTI https://youtu.be/OfMSv7zVnQgIG https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieSUBSTI https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/CICI [email protected]

kelly cutrone is reality tv lore

one of the few people in fashion who understood that power, communication and a little fear can shape an entire generation.

long before influencer culture she built a world where honesty mattered more than likability.

cheapeau?

00:00 — intro

01:17 — who is kelly cutrone

05:52 — the anti-influencer before influencing

12:04 — influencers as fashion’s frankenstein

16:40 — fashion criticism in 2025

but I was thinking: would someone like kelly cutrone, stern, sharp, villain coded in a devil wears prada way still be accepted TODAY - in my today's mind she sounds blabla-ly and random not/gonna/lie

in this episode i look at the version of her the internet remembers and the one the industry quietly respects.

her rise from the hills and the city, the pedagogy behind her toughness but also her latest interview here

https://open.spotify.com/episode/7KhErSUR8EYG4MTGU5ugin?si=5a86881483614096

we also talk about influencers as fashion’s frankenstein, created by US and then accepted by the industry and then blamed for everything, and where fashion criticism sits today now that creators hold more power than hisotrical institutions like vogue etc

(IMO - no need to add that)

GO UP AND RATE THIS PODCAST XDDDDDDD

i had a massive emotional hangover after my book launch party at paris fashion week ss26 and i let one hateful comment enter my veins like salt on an open wound

I did a lot of work on myself to not let anything get to me and I am proud to say I built a very thick skin but my impostor syndrome triggered me into letting my guard down.

never give this much power to ANYONE let alone a dücking stranger on the internet

I won't let anything cancel WHAT WE DID IN PARIS

this woman right here is too stunned to speak: hundreds of my beloved archivists showed up on a rainy and super busy friday during paris fashion week - the busiest fws of them all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

H O W

W O W

this is pushing me to invest so much more in tfa - 2026 is coming with a BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMM

con amore

Amelie

FIND ME HERE

yt https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

ig https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

substi https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

cici [email protected]

ciaoooooo

things i still want to buy in 2025

fewer pieces, stronger ones is the overall approach:

usable, worn hard, quietly rare; a slight avant-garde tilt. written like a confession and that starts to feel like a real plan to me.

rick, finallyyyyy: the prong topi (here it is)

I finally put my hands on the prong top.

immediate posture shift. stretch-jersey that locks without strangling (IMPORTANT); a ruched core that pulls the eye to the bust; that unmistakable “prong” geometry up front so clean, almost architectural, held by internal structure so it doesn’t wilt after two wears xddddd

matte surface.

ive been into matte anything matte nails matte lips matte fabrics.

anyways this top reads like minimal armor under a leather jacket or blazer - you choose - and becomes the whole thesis with a long skirt and boots

JADOREEEE

on the other hand my personal bag agenda is blurry:

i’m still deciding between “forever workhorse” and “beautiful problem.”

three directions keep looping.

1. givenchy pandora: the bag that refuses to sit up straight. (here) introduced in 2009 under riccardo tisci, the pandora arrived when everything was boxy BUT polite; it chose to slouch on purpose. a cuboid that collapses—diagonal double zip, top handle, long strap—you carry it like you mean it. anatomical in the best way: seams where a body bends, leather that looks better beat-up. i want the medium in lived-in black (wrinkled), the kind that already speaks in past tense. it holds a day. it holds a camera. does it hold my computer tho?? comment below if you have nay experience with it whatsoever.
2. prada, nappa + fringe (name a better combo) (here) movement is the point. prada’s nappa fringe lives where discipline meets drama (where miu miu meets prada almost - the who parts of miuccia's heart) the mid-2000s gave full-fringe top handles that turned cult, and the language keeps resurfacing: fringe slipping onto structured frames, fringe reprogramming “polite” shapes into something kinetic.
3. celine phantom remembered + revised: the phantom (here) is a memory with wings. phoebe’s 2011 icon (well, one of them) with michael rider steering celine, certain codes feel re-tuned. early peeks suggest a phantom proportion-checked for now—cleaner, cooler, less noise, more presence. i’m hunting a sharp vintage phantom while i watch the refresh land. heritage in motion WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

perfume is part of the fitscent is styling. the air around you is part of the silhouette. i’m leaning darker this year: incense, lacquered wood, cold stone after rain.

filippo sorcinelli keeps circling back: sacred craft translated to skin.

loewe perfumes are an easy bet ALWAYS:

the two I am mixing at the moment are the solo elixir (here) and agua (here)

the open tab section: it’s admin. tabs, screenshots, notes: i dm sellers for corner photos—corners tell the truth. i check weight because my shoulder complains. i watch how it slumps on a chair. i look at zipper teeth, lining wear, hardware wobble. measurements count more than you think. if it solves the “i have nothing to wear” eight times out of ten, it stays; if it doesn’t, close tab and move on.

FIND ME HERE

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

also here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJyYw8NRueo&t=557s

margiela just did the unthinkable: a celebrity face.

miley cyrus.

shot by paolo roversi.

it reads like a commercial until you actually look at the pictures. they’re stripped back, almost ascetic. not pop-star gloss—image as study. and the paint on her skin isn’t theatrics; it’s bianchetto, the maison’s white-overpaint usually reserved for shoes, bags, even furniture—applied so wear and time become part of the design. now it’s on a body. the star becomes ground primer surface.

suddenly you’re reading line the curve of a tabi the geometry of a 5ac not “miley.”

i respect miley; she’s one of the few who actually knows how to rebrand without begging for redemption arcs. she treats brand like a medium —build strip build again which makes her a sharp match for margiela’s long game of transformation. roversi’s language helps: soft focus + long exposures + painterly light that dissolves edges. it turns fame down to a hum so the house codes can speak.

this is a campaign that will divide and maybe that's intentional.and yes: margiela has been the house of anti-celebrity for decades. anonymity is a value here not a gimmick

-------- masks and/or makeup and/or veils from the start + faces blurred so the clothes take center stage.a “first-ever face” is a big deal culturally and let me tell you the purists ARE LIVID!!!

from my end - not being a purist myself - I believe that a fashion brand as a business has the need and responsibility to adapt to the times they're operating in and in this ECONOMY come on.

MILEY OR NOT MILEY this campaign is great and roversi is always an incredible choice.

FIND ME HERE ‪https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/

FIND THE POD ON YT AND SUBSTI and rate it for the love of gods of fashion!!!!

Glenn Martens’ highly anticipated debut as the creative lead of Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line during the Fall 2025 Haute Couture season IS HERE yayyyyyyyyyyyyy

Glenn - best known for his work at Y/Project and Diesel, has officially stepped into one of the most challenging roles in fashion — continuing the legacy of Martin Margiela.

Here a little reaction video and first impressionsssss!

I missed these eps too XDDDD

FIND ME HERE

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

ALSO HERE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jlxm4NT7Iuc

GRAB YOUR DRINK OF CHOICEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!

someone in my comment section said he’s “the man who turns water into perfume.”

add to that: the liaison between vision and visibility.

In this episode of the fashion archives podcast Lucien Pagès breaks down how perception becomes product, how to turn noise into meaning — and how to get invited to a fashion show (the most asked question in my dms I swear!!!!!)

topics we got into:

– pivoting from design to PR and reframing ambition

– some brands are rich in sales but poor in story (and viceversa): how does PR balance that?

– sacai and the reality of avantgarde fashion

– designers as content creators

– people sneaking into fashion shows

– PR blacklisting — spoiler: it’s real

– the industry’s obsession with romanticizing young male couturiers

– and the question no one wants to ask: do we really need more fashion brands?

the production quality of this episode is T-R-A-S-H (we had so many hiccups!). the conversation isn’t :)))

full episode out now literally everywhere youtube substack spotify apple podcasts!!!

find lucien here:

https://www.instagram.com/lucienpages/

find me here:

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/

https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-fashion-archives/id1764314268

SAVE PRINT BY BUYING COOL FASHION BOOKS

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