things i still want to buy in 2025

fewer pieces, stronger ones is the overall approach:

usable, worn hard, quietly rare; a slight avant-garde tilt. written like a confession and that starts to feel like a real plan to me.

rick, finallyyyyy: the prong topi (here it is)

I finally put my hands on the prong top.

immediate posture shift. stretch-jersey that locks without strangling (IMPORTANT); a ruched core that pulls the eye to the bust; that unmistakable “prong” geometry up front so clean, almost architectural, held by internal structure so it doesn’t wilt after two wears xddddd

matte surface.

ive been into matte anything matte nails matte lips matte fabrics.

anyways this top reads like minimal armor under a leather jacket or blazer - you choose - and becomes the whole thesis with a long skirt and boots

JADOREEEE

on the other hand my personal bag agenda is blurry:

i’m still deciding between “forever workhorse” and “beautiful problem.”

three directions keep looping.

1. givenchy pandora: the bag that refuses to sit up straight. (here) introduced in 2009 under riccardo tisci, the pandora arrived when everything was boxy BUT polite; it chose to slouch on purpose. a cuboid that collapses—diagonal double zip, top handle, long strap—you carry it like you mean it. anatomical in the best way: seams where a body bends, leather that looks better beat-up. i want the medium in lived-in black (wrinkled), the kind that already speaks in past tense. it holds a day. it holds a camera. does it hold my computer tho?? comment below if you have nay experience with it whatsoever.
2. prada, nappa + fringe (name a better combo) (here) movement is the point. prada’s nappa fringe lives where discipline meets drama (where miu miu meets prada almost - the who parts of miuccia's heart) the mid-2000s gave full-fringe top handles that turned cult, and the language keeps resurfacing: fringe slipping onto structured frames, fringe reprogramming “polite” shapes into something kinetic.
3. celine phantom remembered + revised: the phantom (here) is a memory with wings. phoebe’s 2011 icon (well, one of them) with michael rider steering celine, certain codes feel re-tuned. early peeks suggest a phantom proportion-checked for now—cleaner, cooler, less noise, more presence. i’m hunting a sharp vintage phantom while i watch the refresh land. heritage in motion WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

perfume is part of the fitscent is styling. the air around you is part of the silhouette. i’m leaning darker this year: incense, lacquered wood, cold stone after rain.

filippo sorcinelli keeps circling back: sacred craft translated to skin.

loewe perfumes are an easy bet ALWAYS:

the two I am mixing at the moment are the solo elixir (here) and agua (here)

the open tab section: it’s admin. tabs, screenshots, notes: i dm sellers for corner photos—corners tell the truth. i check weight because my shoulder complains. i watch how it slumps on a chair. i look at zipper teeth, lining wear, hardware wobble. measurements count more than you think. if it solves the “i have nothing to wear” eight times out of ten, it stays; if it doesn’t, close tab and move on.

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also here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJyYw8NRueo&t=557s

margiela just did the unthinkable: a celebrity face.

miley cyrus.

shot by paolo roversi.

it reads like a commercial until you actually look at the pictures. they’re stripped back, almost ascetic. not pop-star gloss—image as study. and the paint on her skin isn’t theatrics; it’s bianchetto, the maison’s white-overpaint usually reserved for shoes, bags, even furniture—applied so wear and time become part of the design. now it’s on a body. the star becomes ground primer surface.

suddenly you’re reading line the curve of a tabi the geometry of a 5ac not “miley.”

i respect miley; she’s one of the few who actually knows how to rebrand without begging for redemption arcs. she treats brand like a medium —build strip build again which makes her a sharp match for margiela’s long game of transformation. roversi’s language helps: soft focus + long exposures + painterly light that dissolves edges. it turns fame down to a hum so the house codes can speak.

this is a campaign that will divide and maybe that's intentional.and yes: margiela has been the house of anti-celebrity for decades. anonymity is a value here not a gimmick

-------- masks and/or makeup and/or veils from the start + faces blurred so the clothes take center stage.a “first-ever face” is a big deal culturally and let me tell you the purists ARE LIVID!!!

from my end - not being a purist myself - I believe that a fashion brand as a business has the need and responsibility to adapt to the times they're operating in and in this ECONOMY come on.

MILEY OR NOT MILEY this campaign is great and roversi is always an incredible choice.

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FIND THE POD ON YT AND SUBSTI and rate it for the love of gods of fashion!!!!

Glenn Martens’ highly anticipated debut as the creative lead of Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line during the Fall 2025 Haute Couture season IS HERE yayyyyyyyyyyyyy

Glenn - best known for his work at Y/Project and Diesel, has officially stepped into one of the most challenging roles in fashion — continuing the legacy of Martin Margiela.

Here a little reaction video and first impressionsssss!

I missed these eps too XDDDD

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ALSO HERE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jlxm4NT7Iuc

GRAB YOUR DRINK OF CHOICEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!

someone in my comment section said he’s “the man who turns water into perfume.”

add to that: the liaison between vision and visibility.

In this episode of the fashion archives podcast Lucien Pagès breaks down how perception becomes product, how to turn noise into meaning — and how to get invited to a fashion show (the most asked question in my dms I swear!!!!!)

topics we got into:

– pivoting from design to PR and reframing ambition

– some brands are rich in sales but poor in story (and viceversa): how does PR balance that?

– sacai and the reality of avantgarde fashion

– designers as content creators

– people sneaking into fashion shows

– PR blacklisting — spoiler: it’s real

– the industry’s obsession with romanticizing young male couturiers

– and the question no one wants to ask: do we really need more fashion brands?

the production quality of this episode is T-R-A-S-H (we had so many hiccups!). the conversation isn’t :)))

full episode out now literally everywhere youtube substack spotify apple podcasts!!!

find lucien here:

https://www.instagram.com/lucienpages/

find me here:

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/

https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-fashion-archives/id1764314268

SAVE PRINT BY BUYING COOL FASHION BOOKS

https://bit.ly/3G1ExEY

the girls who lit their clothes on fire and built a cult around it.

In this episode of the fashion archives I sit down with Cosima from Ottolinger — the berlin-based fashion label known for deconstruction, ceramic bags, and pure creative chaos.

we talk about:

– how they built a brand that's niche but has international appeal

– the fashion scene as a niche brand in paris and in berlin – that ceramic bag!!!!!

– destruction as design language

– and what it really takes to stay independent in 2025

also available on spotify substack and wherever you consume your long-form content

learn about ottolinger here

https://ottolinger.com/

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love you and ducking subscribe!!!!!

fashion critic filmmaker and forever icon diane pernet joins us for an unfiltered conversation about what it really means to build your own path in fashion.

follow and rate the fashion archives podcast on spotify the same way you'd rate a restaurant experience on google xdxdxd

before blogs, before Instagram, before content creators were even a thing—diane was documenting fashion on her own terms. With her signature black veil and unmatched point of view, she founded A Shaded View on Fashion Film, walked for Demna’s Balenciaga couture show, and helped shape a global conversation around fashion x film way before anyone else was doing it.

She shares what it’s really like to stick around in fashion for decades—and how to stay relevant without selling your soul :)))

We also get into:– her uniform and favorite designers– what it was like walking for Demna (and her thoughts on him heading to Gucci)– how she made her own space without asking for permission– what it actually takes to last in fashion

Diane is the kind of guest I dreamed of having on when I started this podcast: someone who built something meaningful in this chaotic, ever-changing industry—without ever diluting her voice.

This is part of the new chapter I’ve been working on behind the scenes: sitting down with people I admire—people who’ve done the work, taken risks, and stayed weird :)))))))

so grateful to have MOTHER on the archives

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Legendary image-maker Nick Knight sits down with us to share his unfiltered insights on the future of fashion.

From the revolutionary impact of AI in fashion to reflections on icons like Alexander McQueen and Martin Margiela, Nick offers a behind-the-scenes perspective you won't hear anywhere else

We dive deep into the current state of fashion weeks — questioning their relevance, evolution, and cultural value in today's digital-first world.

Nick also opens up about the real business challenges the UK fashion industry faces in the post-Brexit landscape, giving you a full 360° view of the creative and commercial forces reshaping the fashion world right now.

Plus, we explore his groundbreaking work with SHOWstudio, live-streaming fashion shows before anyone else dared, and the importance of collaborative work between creatives.

If you're passionate about the future of fashion, the intersection of art and technology, and the business realities of creative industries, this interview is essential viewing.

Nick is the first guest part of these new special eps I am introducing on The Archives: I’ve been wanting to take podcast to the next level for a while now. not just where i talk but a real space where we can listen, learn, and grow together.

behind the scenes, i’ve been working on bringing guests on.

people I meet along the way that i think we can actually learn from — not just about the art and craft of fashion, but about building careers, making mistakes, navigating the chaos of this industry.this new chapter is for us.for the ones who are curious, hungry, restless.

I’ve selected different guests with different journeys — journalists, vintage curators, entrepreneurs, photographers —

so that wherever you are on your path, you’ll find something that clicks. something that sticks with you.

something you can use.

this is a MEGA dream for me — not just to talk about fashion, but to create a space where we question it, learn from it, and build our own version of it.honored and humbled to have Nick as my first guest!!!!🖤

im hungry for your feedback!!!!!

you'll find me here:

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

you'll find the pod on YouTube too:

https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

you'll find my newsletter here:https://substack.com/@ameliestanescu

If the Margiela boy = Isabel Marant girl

then… is the Hedi Slimane boy = Ann Demeulemeester girl?

Nostalgia is a cycle we can’t seem to exit—and deep down, I find comfort in that.

After all, I’m a Cancer.

In this episode of The Fashion Archives podcast I trace the return of two iconic fashion archetypes: the Hedi Slimane boy and the Ann Demeulemeester girl.

From Dior Homme to Antwerp minimalism, blurry gig photos to Tumblr dashboards, we explore how the aesthetics of the 2000s and 2010s are being reimagined in 2025 through indie sleaze, post-punk, and quiet rebellion.

We talk Stefano Gallici’s vision for Ann Demeulemeester, the rise of 2hollis and Snow Strippers, the electro-emo music comeback, and the enduring appeal of skinny jeans, leather jackets, poet blouses, and lace-up boots.It’s about fashion formulas that never leave.

Subcultures that keep haunting us.

And how fashion, once again, is a tool for emotional expression in a world that’s oversaturated with trends.

If you’re into archive fashion, Hedi Slimane's Celine era, early YSL Homme, the Libertines, Crystal Castles, or even just vibing with the whole “hot people looking bad on purpose” aesthetic—this one’s for you.

And if you feel like fashion has nothing new to say… you might be right. hold that thought for the next episode

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salone isn’t about furniture trades only. it’s becoming more and more about culture - fashion - networking my new-newsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/what started in 1961 as a trade fair for italian furniture is now the unofficial soft launch of the global creative calendar. it’s milan’s design olympics, its most stylish week (more than mfw - it's like MORE REAL), and one of the best-kept secrets for fashion insiders who are actually doing things behind the scenes.we're talking about an annual design takeover where fashion people finally relax. no step-and-repeats, no chaos PR pitstops, no seat assignments — just editors, stylists, buyers, and directors walking slowly through installations, touching fabrics, asking questions, and talking like actual humans.this is where storytelling meets design. where prada hosts symposiums on moving trains. where loewe turns teapots into art. where jil sander reinterprets the s64 chair. where gucci reimagines bamboo as concept.salone is where the fashion industry’s deeper thinking happens — off-runway, off-season, off-brand (in the best way). it's strategy disguised as furniture. it’s presence without performance. and it’s where you’ll find the archive-makers, not just the content creators.fuorisalone — the city-wide offsite satellite shows — is where the real stuff goes down. brutalist parking garage exhibitions. rooftop lamp launches. conversations over espresso in courtyard cafés.salone isn’t loud. it’s smart.and if you're sleeping on it, you won’t after reading this newsletter.save the cheat sheets about where to eat, where to shop, which fashion brands are showcasing where that you'll find in my newsletter :)))also: walk without purpose.

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let’s start with what i hate, because that’s always more fun.suede leather? too delicate, hates water, fades in the sun. high-maintenance and never worth it. kitten heels? pain in disguise. the worst of both worlds—no height, no comfort, just suffering. scarves? idk something about them feels very i collect antique teacups and trauma. polka dots? lovely in an editorial. horizontal stripes? be serious.now, the good stuff.fringe on bags and jackets = yes. movement. drama. black knee-high boots? they fix everything. truly. ugly outfit? fixed. existential crisis? still cute. asymmetrical zippers, jackets, anything—yes. a little off-balance never hurt anyone. t-shirts with stupid quotes? love. the dumber the better. bonus points if it makes people do a double take. and my 501s? they’re basically my emotional support pants at this point.the fashion archives pod is where we rant, reflect, and reference.part therapy, part cultural commentary. i really hope you'll love this space as much as I do xdxdxd

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newsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/