What does it take to run a successful restaurant or several in a city full of them? Josh Fontaine, cofounder of Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and the newly opened A La Renaissance, knows something about it. He joins me to talk about what’s changed in the Paris food and beverage scene since COVID, the proliferation of concept-driven restaurants, creating longevity, and some of the details he’s most proud of at his new restaurant.

Mentioned in this episode:

Joshua Fontaine, Quixotic Projects

Candelaria

Le Mary Celeste

A la Renaissance

Lutèce

Matcha pop-ups

Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan

⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

Almost a year ago, I launched a series on my newsletter called Leaving America, based on the multitude of reasons Americans opt to leave the country and why many of them, as it happens, end up in Paris. Through this series and my network of creative women in Paris, I’ve connected with so many brilliant Americans who have moved, want to move, or at least understand the desire to. That includes Susanna Schrobsdorff, a former executive editor and columnist for Time Magazine who moved to Paris within the last couple of years. Right off the bat, we started talking together about the feelings tied up in leaving one’s homeland and Paris has done for us, as it has for so many before us. She joins me today to talk about her path to Paris, why it was the right place to settle at this point in her life, and the importance of building community to withstand the toughest of times. 

Mentioned in this episode:

Susanna schrobsdorff

On leaving Brooklyn for Paris

Suzy Hansen's Notes on a Foreign Country

The Blue Hour workshop with Glynnis MacNicol

Paris = luxury fashion, right? Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Chanel are pillars of France’s soft power and legacy of craftsmanship. And they are among the most counterfeited brands in the world. That's part of what I learned reporting on secondhand luxury and authentication issues for Bloomberg Businessweek.

I got to go behind the curtain at Vestiaire Collective, the leading French secondhand platform, to understand the surge in superfakes, how brands are responding to them, and how platforms like Vestiaire have become frontline defenders in this battle for authenticity. Today, I'm joined by Vestiaire's co-founder Fanny Moizant to talk about values, authentication, access, and how our relationship to French savoir-faire is evolving. Most of all, we'll discuss why secondhand no longer carries a stigma.

Mentioned in this story:

My Bloomberg Businessweek report

Vestiaire Collective

Fanny Moizant

Today's guest, André Michel, is a Paris insider; the unofficial Mayor of Paris with a deep and varied knowledge of food and culture, and a talent for weaving it all into compelling storytelling and events. The occasional food and travel writer and event organizer joins me to talk about what it means to know Paris, why there’s never been a better or more dynamic time to visit or live in Paris, and what travelers should check out this summer.

Mentioned in this episode:

André Michel

The Butcher of Paris

Bruno Verjus / Table

Capital in the 21st Century by Thomas Piketty

Jacques Genin⁠

⁠Jade Genin⁠

⁠Cheval d'Or

Othership NY

La Vasque Olympique

Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan

⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

Diehard fans of Paris already know there’s never been a shortage of activities to fill one’s intellectual and cultural cup. Art openings, talks and conferences, concerts and performances happen every day of the week. But if you’re interested in learning in a classroom setting without going back to school in the traditional sense, the options dry up. That’s where Off Campus steps in. It’s a two-month-old coffee shop and bookstore launched by two friends that has a special room dedicated to classes for adults. I’m joined by the co-founder Siham Jibril to talk about what sparked the idea, why there’s more interest in continuing education, and which themes resonate most with Parisians. 

Mentioned in this episode:

Off Campus

Off Campus on Instagram

Bonjour Jacob

Shakespeare & Co

Galignani

MK2 Bibliothèque

Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan

⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

My new book is officially on shelves! To celebrate, The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore hosted me for a launch event last week. At the start, I was in conversation about the project (and more) with the legendary New York Times bestselling and James Beard Award–winning cookbook author Dorie Greenspan. This episode is an edited version of that discussion.

Mentioned in this episode:

The Eater Guide to Paris

Dorie Greenspan

Julien Pham / Phamily First

Kubri / Rita Higgins

Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan

⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

In the canon of Paris narratives, few focus on oddball finds and secrets lurking right beneath our noses. But Vanessa Grall, more commonly known and Messy Nessy, has made it her calling card. For more than a decade she has sussed out offbeat tales and fascinating individuals who have shaped our world and published several guidebooks to help travelers get beyond the obvious. More than a year ago, she opened a storefront, Messy Nessy’s Cabinet, a shop full of curiosities she joins me to talk about today. 

Mentioned in this episode:

Messy Nessy Chic

Messy Nessy's Cabinet

Bottled Seine water

Suzanne Valadon

Don't Be a Tourist guides

Messy Nessy Instagram

Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan

⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

So far, the year in Paris has been bright — at least in a cultural sense. The Louvre Museum is leading the charge with its very first full-fledged fashion exhibition in its 232-year history. To talk about why it’s significant, what visitors can expect, and the cultural context surrounding the pieces on display is Amy Verner, a fashion journalist and longtime Paris resident who has likely spent more time pondering the works inside the Louvre than all of my listeners combined. 

Mentioned in this episode:

Amy Verner

Louvre Couture

Olivier Gabet

Louvre renovation plan

Elaine Sciolino's new book "Adventures in the Louvre"

Like many people living in France, I took a break from alcohol during the imported milestone of Dry January. But we’re in February, and two wine fairs have brought wine lovers and wine pros to the city for talks, tastings, and buying. Wine consumption has been dropping steadily in France, and sales have declined since the 1970s.

So what’s happening here? How are people drinking? Are they drinking? What’s the status of natural wine today? Where should people go to drink well in Paris if they’re going to do so? I'm joined by Alicia Dorey, a wine journalist who writes regularly for Le Figaro, to talk about the ins and outs of wine consumption.

Mentioned in this episode:

Alicia Dorey

Alicia's book A Nos Ivresses

Austrian wine pop-up in Paris

Les Caves Legrand

Vivant and Déviant

Augustin Marchand d'Vins

Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan

⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠

A quick one from me to kickoff season 9 and share some fun news: I have a new book coming out this spring!

The Eater Guide to Paris hits shelves on April 29 in the U.S. /Australia/Europe and on May 8 in the U.K., wherever books are sold. A few links below to pre-order now:

Abrams (publisher)

Bookshop.org

Barnes & Noble

Amazon (U.S.)

Shakespeare & Co

Waterstones

Indigo Books

Booktopia (Australia)

Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan

⁠Music by Little Glass Men⁠