Visit Maison in Charleston, SC any night it's open, and there's a definite vibe -- one that pays homage to the best of classic Left Bank Parisian creativity without the slightest hint of nostalgia. That's a delicate balancing act, but Chef Vandy Vanderwarker accomplishes it through sheer will and his passion for a cuisine he's loved since he watched chefs on television as a child. He continued his interest in cooking throughout college, and when he graduated, attended The French Culinary Institute in New York. After working in a series of restaurants in New York City, he moved to Charleston where he refined his style, including as Chef de Cuisine at The Ordinary, then opened Maison three years ago. It's the home of sweetbreads with black trumpet mushrooms, galettes of shrimp and stone crab, and plenty of pomme frites, which I suggest ordering with a side of escargot.