The Southern Fork

I have a passion for sustainable seafood, and it’s been both an important subject here on the show and the subject of many of my written pieces throughout the years. When I first interviewed Sammy Monsour in 2020, I discovered that we shared this passion, and I’ve watched as he has really blossomed into a chef leader on this front. Therefore, when I first heard that he and Kassady Wiggins, his wife and beverage director partner, wanted to write a cookbook about Southern seafood, I encouraged them to go for it. What has resulted is Salt & Shore: Recipes from the Coastal South, filled with stories, sips, and plenty of recipes and photographs that will make you long for sea breezes if you’re missing them. It’s a vibe, something that Kassady and Sammy excel at in their restaurants, which include the now-closed Preux & Proper in LA -- that gained a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2019 -- and Joyce Soul & Sea, also in LA where they teamed up with founders and operators, Prince and Athena Riley. Joyce was named a “Southern oasis in LA” by LA Times food critic Bill Addison, and the Carolina natives bring Southern flavors to both the food and beverage programs. They are living bi-coastal these days between LA and Charleston and dreaming of their next project. Me? After this conversation, I’m dreaming of hushpuppies, so I’m glad there are two recipes to choose from in their book. 

Other episodes you might enjoy: 

Sammy Monsour: Preux & Proper (Los Angeles, CA)

Eric Montagne: Locals Seafood (Durham, NC)

When I first spoke with Chef Michael Toscano in 2017, he and his family were just getting settled in Charleston with the opening of Le Farfalle. Now, seven years later, the chef seems as if he’s truly settled into a new rhythm between NYC and the Lowcountry. He and his wife Caitlin currently have four restaurants: the aforementioned Le Farfalle, da Toscano in New York’s Greenwich Village, da Toscano Porchetta Shop in Charleston, and Fugazzi, a small spot inside Charleston’s Revelry Brewing that serves what Michael calls unauthentic Italian-inspired American food. The last two are decidedly casual, a new turn for a chef that’s been anything but when it comes to his career. He was a sous chef at Mario Batali’s Babbo by the age of 21, was nominated three times for Rising Star Chef by the James Beard Foundation, and opened his first chef-owned restaurant, Perla, in 2012, which made Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America list. He’s always pursued his passion for cooking, but now that passion is a team sport, where he looks to grow and support the rising stars in his own restaurants as well as the farmers he loves to work with. And one way he does that? By topping soft, crusty focaccia, fresh out of the oven, with all sorts of delicious things. 

Other episodes you might enjoy: 

Michael Toscano: Le Farfalle (Charleston, SC)

Craig Richards: Lyla Lila (Atlanta, GA)

Deborah Freeman is the creator of Setting the Table, a multi-award winning podcast exploring Black foodways and culinary history that in 2023 was honored by the International Association of Culinary Professionals as “Podcast of the Year.” She’s also a colleague in the food writing world, with contributions including to Eater, Condé Nast Traveler, and Garden and Gun, and is the food editor for Richmond’s Style Weekly. We sat down via Zoom to talk about her most recent project, Finding Edna Lewis, a new docuseries for Virginia Public Media that explores the life of the Black female trailblazer who was a celebrated chef and author. As a proud Virginia native, Deb champions Virginia foodways and the power of personal history as a through line in food that can teach us about ourselves and connect us to our ancestors. It’s something that Edna Lewis’ work illustrates and the kind of work Deb is doing in the world, too; therefore, here’s another Southern Fork sustenance conversation, diving deep into the foundational “why” when it comes to the power of food.

Roosevelt Brownlee lives on the curve of a quiet street in Savannah, GA, the tall stalks of okra in his vegetable garden just visible from the side drive. It’s one of many such streets in the port city, and only a few minutes from the old City Market area where he spent his earliest years. But in between those two Savannah addresses, Roosevelt has traveled the world, from France to Africa, the Caribbean to Denmark, cooking for everyone from Muddy Waters and Stan Getz to Nina Simone and the Rothchild family. His fried chicken was famous in Europe, his family’s red rice recipe honed and tweaked in chateau kitchens. With every deviled crab and pan of mac and cheese, he brought comfort and sustenance to jazz musicians hungry for a taste of home, and at the same time, introduced countless newcomers to the joys of good Southern cooking. Although he’s cooked for much of the last two decades in Savannah kitchens, he’s mostly retired now, though every so often you can see him at special events in the Lowcountry, big hotel spoon in hand, stirring a pan or a pot of something. If that happens, make sure that you get a taste of what he’s cooking. Remember, it’s the true stuff of legend.

Other episodes you might enjoy: 

Mashama Bailey & John Morisano, The Grey and The Grey Market (Savannah, GA)

Adrian Miller, Author and Soul Food Scholar

One of my greatest quiet joys is cooking from a well-written cookbook on a weekend night, music on the bluetooth and new scents and tastes filling the kitchen. My favorite cookbook that I’ve cooked from this year is Latinisimo: Home Recipes from the Twenty-One Country of Latin America by Sandra Gutierrez. Sweeping in its scope, it is an encyclopedia of the home cooking of Latin America today, and each of the hundreds of recipes is approachable and very doable for a cook like me. I’m not surprised. Sandra -- who grew up in Guatemala City but has lived in Cary, NC for decades -- is the former food editor of the Cary News, an historian, professional cooking instructor, and author of four cookbooks, including this latest. She is considered one of the top national experts on Latin American foodways, and she has a heart for the home cook. Sandra has been awarded the Les Dames D’Escoffier M. F. K Fisher Grand Prize Award for Excellence in Food Writing, and her work has been recognized as part of the permanent FOOD exhibit at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. 

Other episodes you might enjoy: 

Southern Fork Sustenance: Talking Cookbooks and Editor Judith Jones with Author Sara Franklin

Diego Campos: CAMP, Modern American Eatery (Greenville, SC)

Columbia, SC’s Main Street architecture still has much of the charm of a mid-century movie set. There are jewelry stores, restaurants, hotels, and gift shops in buildings that range from the turn of the 20th Century to modern day. Tucked in among the hustle and bustle is Lula Drake Wine Parlor, which eight plus years ago was just another dusty building awaiting renovation. Now it is a gilded lily that comes alive at night like the culinary theater it is. Sommelier Tim Gardner knows his role as the lead actor, greeting guests in a well-tailored sport coat or sliding behind the bar to offer a taste of champagne with a twinkle in his eye. The crowd fills all available seats as plates of pasta roll out of the kitchen and dusk tucks in the windows at the front of this long, narrow space. In a city that still often struggles to know its own culinary personality, Lula Drake is a self-assured wine parlor with a true welcoming air. In 2023, it was nominated for Outstanding Hospitality by the James Beard Foundation, and this year, not only was it named one of the “Friendliest Places in the South” by Southern Living, Lula Drake won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine Program. It all comes back to Tim’s love of wine and interest in inviting more people to love it too, and that goes way beyond the liquids in the bottles behind the bar. 

Other episodes you might enjoy: 

Erin Eisele & James Alford: Cork & Cap Bottle Shop (Aiken, SC)

Sarah Pierre: 3 Parks Wine Shop (Atlanta, GA)

Charlotte, NC is one of the fastest growing metropolitan cities in the United States. While the city has always looked forward, it was actually founded before the American Revolution and the site of the first US Mint. But in the past two decades, the intense growth and the addition of a light rail system have brought immense changes citywide. In the middle of it all, the Nguyen family has been feeding its community, one Bahn Mi sandwich at a time. From homemade beginnings to a cornerstone business of the Asian Corner Mall, Le’s Sandwiches and Cafe now has another new chapter of its own. Tuan Nguyen has taken over the business from his parents and is carrying on their legacy, despite the closing of the mall that is slated for imminent demolition. Le’s has a beautiful new streetfront building on Sugar Creek Road, and they routinely sell out of everything they can make. Le’s Bahn Mi #6 was voted one of the best sandwiches in Charlotte by QC Magazine, they have been featured in The Charlotte Observer, and the restaurant was the subject of an oral history published by The Southern Foodways Alliance. 

Other episodes you might enjoy: 

Dayna Lee: Comal 864 (Greenville, SC) Don Trowbridge: Trowbridge’s (Florence, AL)

Over more than half a century as an editor at Knopf, Judith Jones became a legend, nurturing future literary icons such as Sylvia Plath, Anne Tyler, and John Updike. But although I was an English major, I first learned of Judith Jones years later, when I realized that Edna Lewis, M.F.K. Fisher, Claudia Roden, Madhur Jaffrey, James Beard, and, most famously, Julia Child, all had the same editor -- her. Judith celebrated the art and pleasures of cooking and culinary diversity, and in the process changed the way Americans think about food. Sara Franklin’s new book, The Editor, is a highly anticipated biography of Judith that details her astonishing career, and it is my suggestion for a perfect summer read. Sara is a writer and editor in her own right with bylines including The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Nation. In this conversation, we delve into the nature of serious cookbooks, the art and craft of recipe writing, and the cultural significance of writing about food. Sara writes and teaches at New York University's Gallatin School for Individualized Study, so this conversation with me was via zoom from her home in Kingston, NY.

Other episodes related to this one:

Jacques Pépin, Chef, Author & Television Personality (Madison, CT)

Southern Fork Sustenance: A Conversation with MacArthur Fellow J. Drew Lanham about SC Barbecue & Beyond

Rice was South Carolina’s first great agricultural staple. Before the American Revolution, it had already made South Carolina the richest of the 13 original colonies, and Charleston one of the richest cities in the world.  But it did so on the backs of enslaved skilled laborers, most of whom had been kidnapped from the rice growing regions of West Africa. For hundreds of years, they and their descendants built earthworks, tended, cultivated, harvested and processed rice all by hand in remote locations in the subtropical forests and swamps of the Southern US coast.

After the Civil War, the cultivation of rice dwindled but was still part of the culinary culture of blacks and whites alike. However, little by little less flavorful rices began to take over the table and the variety, Carolina Gold, threatened to disappear completely. But of course, that’s not the end of the story, but the beginning of another one. Close to 20 years ago, a rice revival in South Carolina began and Rollen Chalmers was right in the middle of it, applying his knowledge and equipment used to grade land for construction to rice field engineering. He, you’ll hear, is bringing the cultivation of rice full circle in his family with Rollens Raw Grains in Levy, SC, which was just recently featured in the Washington Post. He’s gone from experimenter and researcher to rice farmer, and in the process has helped once again bring Carolina Gold Rice to tables across the world, and taught plenty of other farmers how to engineer fields so they can grow it too. 

Other episodes related to this one:

Glenn Roberts: Anson Mills & AM Research (Columbia, SC) Southern Fork Sustenance: A Conversation with MacArthur Fellow J. Drew Lanham about SC Barbecue & Beyond

Shaun Brian Sells started life in a two-person tent surrounded by plantation ruins in the flats of Coral Bay, St. John, US Virgin Islands. It was in that environment where his love for cooking began– by roaming and foraging through the valley, fishing off his dad’s sailboat and cooking for up to eight siblings at a time. Those challenges became the source of his inspiration. At Cudaco on James Island, SC, he brings that inspiration full circle, celebrating sustainable seafood practices and the creativity of the kitchen. Cudaco is part seafood market, part wine shop, part catering, and part casual restaurant with my favorite fried fish sandwich in town and also caviar in the cooler. Shaun’s passion is educating guests about lesser known seafood species and how to make them delicious, and since he also serves the wholesale community, his seafood shows up on some of the best Charleston tables too. Shaun was named one of Zagat’s 30 Under 30, he’s an alumnus of the James Beard Foundation’s Boot Camp for policy and change, and a former Senior Chef on the US Virgin Islands Culinary Team.