Big wave surfing is a sport like no other. Clearly you need incredible technique and athleticism just to be in the conversation. But beyond that it’s the mental side of taking on a monster wave, each one unique in how it forms and breaks, that puts it in a category all its own. British surfer Laura Crane takes us inside this otherworldly pursuit, from the moments of calm as she waits for her chance, to the instant game face required to enter the fray and take on a wave as big as an office block. What’s remarkable about such skill and bravery is how Laura has had to battle self-doubt and imposter syndrome along the way but she credits the challenges she’s faced - including bulimia and sepsis - with equipping her with the edge she needed to find her calling and become the first British woman to ride the 60 foot waves of Nazaré in Portugal. She also discusses how her earlier experiences as a young female surfer have made her passionate about the example she sets for the next generation and explains how all of us could benefit from getting to know and understand our fears instead of battling against them.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.