Every dog needs a collar and leash.  There are many options out there so let's talk about them.

Each of these tools has it's advantages and disadvantages and there's no one perfect solution that works for every dog.

In part one I talked about the different types of leashes.   

In this episode (part two) I talk about the most common types of collars and harnesses that are available.

I also share my recommendations and which ones I think you should avoid.  By the end you'll have a better idea of what will work for you and your dog. 

Here are the different types of collars and harnesses I talk about:

Flat Collar:

This is the most common type of collar.  It usually holds some kind of identification.  You may or may not use this one for walks as well as everyday use.

There is a slightly different version that has similar uses which I talk about next. 

I recommend the flat collars that have a quick release (which is the type of clip you see in the picture).  Most flat collars have this type of clip.  What I don't want you to use the type collar where you have to loosen and tighten the collar to get it on and off.  There are many ways for these collars to get caught up and you want to be able to get them off quickly. 

Martingale Collar:

This collar is very similar to the flat collar.  The difference is that there is an extra piece that when a leash is attached and they pull the collar pinches together to make it just small enough so they can't pull out of the collar.  

It's NOT a choke collar (in fact if it chokes your dog then it's too tight).  It's made for safety reasons so your dog can't pull back and out leaving you standing there with a leash and collar and no dog!  

This is the everyday collar I recommend.

As with a flat collar, you may or may not use this for walks and I recommend using one with the quick release clip. 

Harness:

Harnesses are also very recognizable.  I favor this tool for everyday walking.  For some dogs a harness can encourage pulling and you loose a little control compared to a neck collar.  That being said, I've seen enough neck injuries to still recommend a harness over a neck collar for walks.  

If you have a heavy puller there are some separate tools for that.  So let's talk about them... 

Head Collar or Gentle Lead:

This tool is specifically designed to help with leash pulling.  When your dog pulls forward the collar pulls their head around taking away their leverage.  

It's very effective.  

The biggest drawback is dogs hate it.  They don't like the strap that sits around their nose.  Some dogs will get used to it but for the most part they tend to reject it.   

Front Clip Harness:

This is the tool I recommend for leash pullers.  Essentially it's a regular harness with a clip in the front as well as the back.  You don't need the double leash like in the picture but some do come designed that way.

It works in a similar way to the head collar.  When your dog starts to pull forward they get turned around and lose their leverage.  It's very important to get the fit right for these, otherwise it's just the harness that spins around, not the dog. 

What I don't recommend:

E-collar, pinch collar, choke collar.

Each of these tools are designed to make your dog uncomfortable to stop a behavior.  In my experience these cause more behavior problems than they fix. 

Those are the tools I talk about in part two.  Head over to Episode #75 for part one where I talk about the different types of leashes. 

In this episode I talk about:

The most common types of collars and harnesses.

Which tools I recommend and why.

My recommendations for young puppies.

Which collars I don't recommend and why.

Press play and enjoy!

Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:

YNP #075: Different Leash Walking Tools (Part 01: Leashes)

Playtime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Every dog needs a collar and leash.  There are many options out there so let's talk about them.Each option has it's advantages and disadvantages and there's no one perfect solution that works for every dog.So in this episode (part one) I talk about the most common types of leashes that are available. In part two I talk about the different types of collars and harnesses.   I also share my recommendations (which may or may not be right for you) and which ones I think you should avoid.  By the end you'll have a better idea of what will work for you and your dog. Here are the different types of leashes I talk about:Standard Leash:The standard leash is the most common type of leash and the one I recommend for everyday use.  The material can vary but that is your personal preference.  I do recommend a light weight material and clip for puppies.Long Line:The long line is the other type of leash that I recommend.  It's not an every day leash but it has lots of training uses.  Anytime you want to give your dog more freedom but still have the control of a leash to keep them safe.  For example, your back yard (even if it's fenced in for a young puppy) or a park when you want to play a game of fetch.  I find 30 feet is long enough to give your dog some freedom but not too long where the leash is hard to handle. Slip Lead:I used to use a slip lead to teach loose leash walking.  I don't anymore because they need to be used correctly to be safe and effective.  It's very easy to use them incorrectly and then they become a choke collar which is dangerous and ineffective. I now use other loose leash walking tools that are easier to learn and are still effective.  I'll talk about them in part two.Retractable Leash (a.k.a. Flexi Leash): I do NOT recommend a retractable leash.  They are one of those tools that seems like a good idea but in practice they are not.  In fact, I have an entire episode about it.  YNP #011: Reasons to Leave Your Retractable Leash at HomeThose are the tools I talk about in part one.  Stay tuned for part two where I talk about the different collars and harnesses that are out there. In this episode I talk about:The different types of leashes.Which leashes I recommend and why.My recommendations for young puppies.Which leash I don't recommend and why.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #011: Reasons to Leave Your Retractable Leash at HomePlaytime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Socialization is the most important training you can do for your Puppy.

We want to get our puppy out from the very beginning.

There are also lots of things we can do every day at home in addition to the outside world. 

Bonus: Socialization tires a puppy out! 

In this episode I talk about:

A quick review on what it means to socialize your puppy.

Why socialization is so important.

5 ways to socialize your puppy without leaving your home.

Lot of examples and ideas to keep you and your puppy busy for a long time.

Press play and enjoy!

Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:

YNP #021: Balancing Vaccines and Socialization

YNP #063: My 7 Guidelines to Socializing Your Puppy

Playtime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Something I get asked often is how I feel about using a potty bell.  

If you listened to my complete guide to potty training then you know that I don't mention using a bell at all but does that mean I don't want you to?  No go ahead...well, maybe... 

While I'll show my clients how to use the bell if they ask, I find myself talking them out of it more often than not. 

I'm not against using a bell, I just find that it doesn't work in the way we may think. 

BUT as long as our expectations are in the right place a potty bell might work for you.  So stick around until the end when I tell you exactly how to teach your dog to ring a bell to go outside.  

In this episode I talk about:

Why I may hesitate to teach the bell.

Why a bell might not work the way you think it will.

Conversations I have with my clients before teaching the bell.

Reasons a potty bell might work for you.

How to teach your dog to ring a bell to go outside.

Press play and enjoy!

Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:

YNP #010: Complete Guide to Potty Training Your Puppy

Playtime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Something I get asked often is how I feel about using a potty bell.  

Stay can be a useful command ("Stay" so I can take your picture).  It can be used for safety ("Stay" while I clean up this glass that just broke).  I also use it all the time to focus an overstimulated dog.  

With just a few adjustments you can build a foundation to a stronger and longer Stay. 

In this episode I talk about:

How to set your dog up for success.

What's wrong with the Stay-Come exercise.

How to reset them when they break.

Stay is a one syllable word.

What makes Stay different from other cues.

Press play and enjoy!

Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:

YNP #012: The Most Important Part of Your Dog's Obedience Training

Playtime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans in any s

Teaching your dog "Stay" is one of the easier cues to teach your dog...if we do it right.  And of course most of us are doing it wrong. Stay can be a useful command ("Stay" so I can take your picture).  It can be used for safety ("Stay" while I clean up this glass that just broke).  I also use it all the time to focus an overstimulated dog.  With just a few adjustments you can build a foundation to a stronger and longer Stay. In this episode I talk about:How to set your dog up for success.What's wrong with the Stay-Come exercise.How to reset them when they break.Stay is a one syllable word.What makes Stay different from other cues.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #012: The Most Important Part of Your Dog's Obedience TrainingWhat's Next?Feeling stuck because your puppy just won’t stay put no matter how many times you practice?You’re not alone AND you’re not doing anything wrong. You might just need some extra guidance.That’s exactly why I created YOUR Perfect Puppy — my digital program that gives you a clear plan to follow and direct support from me every step of the way. ​You’ll build the core behaviors that matter most — like stay, attention, and impulse control — using real-life training that actually fits into your day.And because puppyhood doesn’t stop after four weeks, you’ll also get ongoing access to Playtime Paws Academy — my membership community with weekly live calls, a private forum, an entire library of enrichment activities, and training refreshersClick here to check out YOUR Perfect Puppy.  I’d love to help you get a “stay” you can actually count on.

Maybe you've never heard of raw feeding your dog.  Maybe you have but you're not quite sure what it means.  This episode can start to answer some of your questions. 

Raw feeding is something that I've dabbled in but I am NO expert.  Since I do get questions about it all the time, I've decided to bring in Kasie Maxwell Grujcic to help teach us more about it.  

Kasie has been raw feeding for 30 years and is the founder and owner of San Francisco Raw.  If you are new to raw feeding this is a great opportunity to hear from the perspective from someone who's been doing it for a while. 

This episode is Part 1 of a two part series.  In Part 2 we focus on raw feeding puppies.

In this episode we talk about:

Kasie's story. 

A brief history of traditional dog food.

What is raw feeding?

How it's easier than most people think.

The different ways of raw feeding. 

How to start.

Press play and enjoy!

Other resources provided by Kasie:

Raw supportive vets worldwide: https://rfvs.info/find-a-vet/

Local supplier resources for ingredients: www.eatwild.com

Nationally available prepared raw foods (alternative to Answers Pet Food which Kasie no longer recommends): https://www.kurepetfood.com/ 

Nationally available prepared raw foods: https://rawdogfoodandco.com/  

Raw food consultants: https://freshfoodconsultants.org/canine-consultants

Puppy feeding guide: https://perfectlyrawsome.com/raw-feeding-puppy-guides/ 

Raw feeding myths: http://rawfed.com/myths/ 

Related articles from Kasie's blog:

https://sfraw.blog/2016/09/14/baywoofs-september-nutrition-issue-featured-article-starting-puppies-on-a-raw-food-diet-by-kasie-maxwell/

https://sfraw.blog/2017/05/10/making-using-raw-goat-milk-slurry-for-naturally-reared-puppiesyoung-dogs/

https://sfraw.blog/2018/02/25/perfect-canine-poop-qa-whats-a-normal-stool-for-a-raw-fed-dog-question-about-constipation/

Ways to contact Kasie:

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sfraw

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sfraw/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/whatgroovyeats/ (how she feed her own dog)

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/briarandbones/ (her cats)

Website: http://sfraw.net/

Direct scheduling link: https://sfraw.as.me/Kasie

"Practice makes perfect."  We all know that one.  Well it's just as true for our dogs.  

When we teach our dogs how to sit we know to start at step one and work them up to a reliable sit in any situation.  

When we want to change a behavior (like barking, digging, leash walking, or counter surfing) it's no different. 

We don't usually think of it as something we have to intentionally practice but this is exactly what is going to change it. 

When you teach someone algebra, first they need to know how to add and substract.  Our dogs are no different. 

We think about how we want the behavior to change in the moment and try to work there when really we have to back up a whole bunch of steps and practice in easier more controllable situations. 

In this episode I talk about:

What intentional practice means.

The difference between changing a behavior and just reacting to it.

Why it's important to work in controlled environments.

Why practicing when the behavior isn't happening is important. 

How to resist the easy button.

Press play and enjoy!

Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:

YNP #027: How to Handle a Shy Dog

YOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy.

In part one we talked about demand barking.  Here in part two I go into detail about alter barking.  

Alert barking is when your dog is barking at something.  A dog out the window, a noise like a doorbell, your neighbor who's washing their car, etc.  

​

In this episode I talk about:

Summary of what we talked about in Part 1.

What is alert barking.

The different techniques to handle alert barking.

Examples of different scenarios and how to handle them. 

How to recognize when they are barking out of fear.

Press play and enjoy!

Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:

YNP #027: How to Handle a Shy Dog

YNP #063: My 7 Guidelines for Socializing Your Dog

YNP #066: How to Stop a Dog From Barking (Part 1)

See Part 1's show notes for links to these episodes:

Episodes to help with barking while crate training

Episode to help with barking because of separation anxiety

Episode to help with barking while on a leash

Other resources:

YOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy.