Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine Podcast

421: Gabriel Dulong Is Fermenting a Culture of Innovation at Quebec Craft Stalwart Boréale


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There was a time in Boréale’s not-so-distant past when they might have released a new beer every other year. The brewery is one of Quebec’s oldest craft breweries, dating back to the late 1980s, and over its history it has seen waves and trends come and go. But the changing dynamics of craft brewing in the 2010s posed a different kind of challenge that required a new way to approach innovation and risk-taking. Then head brewer, now vice president of innovation, Gabriel “Gab” Dulong played a big part in that adjustment, getting the brewery into the unfolding world of production-scale hazy IPA in 2016, then pushing hard into nonalcoholic NA beer through the pandemic. Today, the brewery remains one of the largest craft breweries in Quebec—and only in Quebec—producing about 100,000 barrels of beer per year. But innovation is now core to their DNA.

In this episode, Dulong discusses:

  • helping an established brewery transition to the market realities of the past decade
  • reorienting to sell on quality and ingredients instead of price point
  • building a new approach to cold-chain storage to properly distribute hazy IPA in Quebec
  • generating internal knowledge in NA brewing
  • developing style-dependent processes for different NA beers
  • experimenting with specialized yeasts before settling on tight processes with standard brewing yeasts
  • building mouthfeel and intensity without alcohol in beer
  • hopping with modern hop products in NA beer
  • malt selection for hazy IPA
  • manipulating final gravity for NA versions of core brands
  • And more.

    This episode is brought to you by:

    G&D Chillers (https://gdchillers.com): For years G&D Chillers has chilled the beers you love, partnering with 3,000+ breweries across North America and beyond. With our 24/7 service and support, your brewery will never stop. Remote monitor your chiller for simple and fast access to all the information you need, and gain peace of mind your operation is running smoothly.
    Berkeley Yeast (https://berkeleyyeast.com). Berkeley Yeast bioengineers ordinary strains and make them extraordinary—enhancing the flavors you want and eliminating the ones you don’t. Visit berkeleyyeast.com to learn more and start brewing with science on your side.
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    Indie Hops (https://indiehops.com) Lórien seamlessly combines traditional elements of European noble hops with an elegant twang of American modernity. Learn more about Lórien and the rest of Indie’s varieties at www.indiehops.com. Indie Hops — Life is short. Let’s make it flavorful.
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    Arryved (https://www.arryved.com) Not only does Arryved offer a world-class POS built specifically for breweries, but they also provide Arryved Brewery Management, e-commerce, and more to help breweries scale and thrive. Visit arryved.com to learn more.
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    Brewery Workshop (https://breweryworkshop.com) If you’re launching a brewery or acquiring an existing one, consider our brewery workshop and new brewery accelerator, September 14 through 17th in Fort Collins, Colorado. Over four days, we engage in panel discussions, technical brewery tours, networking, and small working group sessions that help you better understand and prepare for the challenges of brewery operation. Tickets are on sale now.

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