Acquired Taste Food Podcasts

This week, legendary LA food writer Bill Esparza made waves when he dropped a scathing review of Villa’s Tacos on his Instagram stories. The review had been building for weeks, if not more than a year, and its Kendrick-style intensity left all of Los Angeles talking. Father Sal is with us today to dive deep into the situation, including what led to it, what the review got right and wrong, and how Victor Villa and others in the LA food community responded. We attempt to answer the essential questions - was Bill’s criticism fair? Did he go too far, was he too mean? And what does it mean that Bill’s opinions on these tacos, seems to be so far removed from that of other key voices in the food world including Bill Addison, LA Taco and even Michelin Bib Gourmand. One housekeeping note, Bill’s review took place on Instagram stories and is no longer available. Fear not, we’ve got your back. We took screenshots and the entire review can be found at our substack, LA FOODSTACK, linked in the show notes.

On a lighter note, we’re also joined on the podcast today by Duncan Parsons and Joe Wedd, the duo behind Creamy Boys, a New Zealand-style real fruit ice cream concept down in Hermosa Beach. I had a blast talking to these two rambunctious fellas about how they turned their lifelong friendship and passion for their hometown delicacy into a business concept that is kind of taking Los Angeles by storm. If you haven’t had New Zealand style ice cream yet, I’m not sure you can really say your summer has even begun. So give this a listen, and then go get your Hokey Pokey on.

Helpful links:

LA FOODSTACK, where you can find Bill Esparza's Villa's Tacos review in its entirety https://thelacountdown.substack.com/

Creamy Boys https://www.creamyboys.com/

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Get 10% off on your first purchase of wagyu beef products at First Light Farms with code "LAFOOD10" https://www.firstlight.farm/us/

Father Sal is with us today to talk about the LA Times’ 2024 Restaurant of the Year Baroo. We break down what the award means, why it’s significant, and why we are so excited for our upcoming meal at this very special restaurant. We also talk about the LA Times’ Gold Award winner, the rise of non-alcoholic beer, and the sudden closure of Rampart Village restaurant due to homelessness question mark? 

Arguably even more exciting is that fact that we’re joined in Part 2 by none other than Eater’s Mona Holmes. A James Beard Award nominee, Mona is one of the most intrepid food reporters in the city and possibly the country. We have a wide-ranging conversation on the state of LA food, the state of LA food media, and much, much more.

Helpful links:

All articles mentioned on the pod are linked in LA FOODSTACK, our free weekly newsletter https://open.substack.com/pub/thelacountdown/p/baroo-is-the-la-times-2024-restaurant?r=31nins&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web

Mona Holmes in Instagram https://www.instagram.com/monaeats/?hl=en

Mona Holmes in Eater https://la.eater.com/authors/mona-holmes

Mona Holmes in KCRW https://www.kcrw.com/people/mona-holmes

Part 2 of our The Bear Season 3 recap. Father Sal is with us to break down episodes 6-10. If you listened to Part 1 on Monday, you'll know that we weren't too sweet on episodes 1-5. Did the second half of the season change our opinion? Not exactly, but keep listening to find out where exactly we feel the show got lost in the sauce, and most importantly, Father Sal's killer conspiracy theories about why. 

But first, a couple of things that caught my eye this week. There's an end finally to the service fee saga, a massive win for street vendors, and some really insightful reporting on just how hard it is to score a liquor license in LA, courtesy of Emily Wilson at The Angel.

Helpful links:

LA Foodstack, our free newsletter where we curate all the week's most essential food news https://open.substack.com/pub/thelacountdown/p/the-epic-service-fee-saga-comes-to?r=31nins&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web

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Get 10% off at House of Macadamias with code "LAFOOD" https://www.houseofmacadamias.com/pages/la-foods

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Get 10% off your first order of wagyu products at First Light Farms with code "LAFOOD10" https://www.firstlight.farm/us/

Santiago Lastra is the chef of Michelin-starred restaurant KOL in London. He visited in LA on the heels of the World’s 50 Best ceremony in Las Vegas, where KOL was named the number 17 best restaurant in the world. He stopped by the City of Angels for a special collab dinner with Vespertine’s Jordan Kahn, and I’m really honored he made time to grab lunch with me at Gilberto Cetina’s Holbox, the 2023 LA Times Restaurant of the Year, located at Mercado La Paloma. 

Gabe Kennedy is the all-star chef behind Highland Park’s Checker Hall. He joins us today to tell us his high-octane journey, which includes winning Anthony Bourdain’s competition show “The Taste,” co-founding one of the hottest plant-based supplement companies on the market, and uprooting his life in New York to relocate to LA and grace our city with one of the most fun dining experiences I’ve had in a long time in Highland Park’s Checker Hall. 

One conversation with Gabe and you’re immediately hooked. You can just really tell how much this guy cares, not just about making delicious food, but about doing things that have real meaning and thought behind them. Personally I’m stoked to have Checker Hall in my backyard, but they’ve got a chicken schnitzel that is 100% worth driving across town for. Not to mention the historic building, the fantastic cocktails, the music venue next door. It’s one of the most fun evenings you can have in our fair city, and I think you’ll be makin’ a rez right after you hear Gabe talk about it. 

But first, Father Sal and I break down the things that caught my eye this week. There’s the Infatuation’s lackluster review of Vespertine, an intriguing albeit quite cringey Taste article on The Best Restaurant in Town, and a discussion on whether shoppy shops are good, bad or somewhere in between for neighborhoods.

Helpful links:

Checker Hall https://www.checkerhall.com/

Gabe Kennedy https://www.instagram.com/gabe_kennedy/?hl=en

Plant People https://www.plantpeople.co/

Vespertine review from The Infatuation https://www.theinfatuation.com/los-angeles/reviews/vespertine?ifsb=yes

The Best Restaurant in Town by Priyanka Mattoo https://tastecooking.com/the-best-restaurant-in-town/

LA Grocery opens up on Melrose Hill https://la.eater.com/2024/6/3/24167496/la-grocery-and-cafe-melrose-hill-los-angeles-produce-market

Noise in restaurants https://www.washingtonpost.com/science/interactive/2024/loud-restaurant-noise-health-effects/

Kevin D'Andrea show https://austinfoodmagazine.com/austin-chef-kevin-dandrea-to-host-new-nbcuniversal-series-breaking-baguettes/

EEEEEATSCON https://www.eeeeeatscon.com/los-angeles/lineup

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Get 10% off on all House of Macadamia products using code LAFOOD

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Get 10% off on your first purchase at First Light Farms using code LAFOOD10 https://www.firstlight.farm/us/

We’re joined on today’s episode by the Infatuation’s Brant Cox for the first-ever in person podcast in LA Food Pod history. Brant and I met up for lunch at Mae Malai in Thai Town for some wonderful boat noodles (and much more). We caught up about what it’s like to be BFFs with Chris Pine, where he’s been eating lately, and oh yeah, a little thing called EEEEATSCON.