When E.J. Lagasse was four years old, he made his debut appearance in Food & Wine in a feature called "How to Kick Healthy Cooking Up a Notch." He wasn't the one making the recipes — that was his dad Emeril Lagasse — but 17 years later, the father and son are comrades in the kitchen. Most notably at their flagship New Orleans restaurant Emeril's, where E.J. — and if you just did the math, yes, he's 21 — runs the kitchen. The two generations of Lagasse chefs talk about working together, the unique magic of sno-ball season, and watching people's faces react to a massive pyramid of butter.

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