November 19, 2024

EP 216: Chris Malloy - Surf legend to steward of the land, His early experiences at Pipe, Cultivating love of nature, YETI, Filmmaking, and Living with purpose

2 hours 11 minutes

Legendary surfer, filmmaker, and environmental advocate Chris Malloy joins us on The Lineup. Known for his no-nonsense attitude and deep connection to the land, Chris dives into what it truly means to live authentically and reconnect with nature. He shares his views on modern conservation efforts, the surf film industry, and what it was like to watch legends like Tom Curren at Rincon in the early days. From hammering nails, cutting wood and driving tractors to fund his surf trips to taking a leap with Patagonia, Chris recounts how stepping away from big sponsorship deals was met with skepticism but ultimately led to a fulfilling path of making purpose-driven films. He offers an inside look at the surfing world before the internet, when curiosity was the fuel for adventure. Chris looks back at his upbringing, moving from Los Angeles to Ojai in the late '70s—a place he describes was filled with hippies, cowboys, and the Hell’s Angels. He reminisces about the early surf trips to the North Shore, scraping by with couch surfing and car camping. Recounting stories of Pipeline, Teahupo’o, and the Mentawais, he paints a picture of an era when surfing’s greats carved out a living on the waves and off the grid. Chris also reflects on the changing surf culture, the “passing of the torch,” and how while the younger generation’s progression may be incredible, he worries they may be missing out on the raw, unfiltered experience that shaped his own career. Chris continues by discussing the evolution of his filmmaking journey, from his early appearances in Taylor Steele’s films to creating impactful surf documentaries with his brothers. He discusses his partnership with YETI and their shared ethos of practicality and purpose. He shares how YETI gear became a staple on his ranch, highlighting the importance of quality tools that allow you to do what you love just a little longer.

Learn more about Chris Malloy here and follow him here.

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