Today I’m speaking with Jeffrey Pilcher, Professor of Food History at the University of Toronto. We are discussing his new book, Hopped Up: How Travel, Trade, and Taste Made Beer a Global Commodity (Oxford University Press, 2024). While beer, or even alcohol for that matter, is not consumed in many parts of the world, its near universality is still astonishing. Even in the Middle East, where alcohol is largely forbidden, non-alcoholic beer sells well. Perhaps most surprising is that in nearly every place where beer is consumed (with the exception of Ireland’s Guinness) the pale lager dominates in popularity. This wasn’t always the case, and the story of how this came to be is a textbook example of the standardization driven by the forces of globalization. Examined as a commodity, beer offers as important a window into understanding the development of our modern world as does oil or McDonalds. Analyzed as a cultural artifact, beer tells us something about how people identify, what groups they belong to, and what livelihoods they pursue. Hopped Up is an excellent history that will appeal to historians and beer-drinkers of all stripes— whether you prefer Guinness, Sapporo, Bud Light, or non-alcoholic beer.

Caleb Zakarin is editor of the New Books Network.

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