Grape seeds from 600 BC. A winery overlooking the largest bird sanctuary in Europe. A daughter who came back from California and said: Dad, I am coming back, but this is the way I want to farm. And a blind tasting experiment where Michel's team has never once misidentified the origin of a wine, even when they get the varietal completely wrong.
In this episode of Read Between the Wines, Pierre Ferland heads to the Costières de Nîmes, the western edge of the southern Rhône Valley where the river meets the Mediterranean, to sit down with Michel Gassier of Domaine Gassier and Château de Nages. The Gassier family has been farming this land for four generations. The fifth generation, Isabelle, is now shaping where it goes next.
The conversation covers the geology of rolled pebbles that never compact and why that matters for minerality. The sea breezes that cool and hydrate the vines. The difference between Château de Nages on the northern lip of the plateau and Domaine Gassier on the southern edge overlooking Camargue, which Michel describes as the difference between Puligny-Montrachet and Chablis. The varietals being planted to adapt to a warming climate: Bourboulenc, Piquepoul, Carignan Blanc, and Mourvèdre. And the three pillars of regenerative agriculture, soil, ecosystem, and community, making Domaine Gassier the first French winery to carry regenerative certification.
He returned from America in 1993 having learned that if you don't like something, you change it. He still believes that. The red tape is the problem.
Featuring: Domaine Gassier, Château de Nages, Costières de Nîmes, Southern Rhône, France, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, regenerative agriculture.