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40 years at the same estate. One forgotten grape. And the wine that started a revolution.
In this episode of Read Between the Wines, Pierre Ferland returns to the heart of Tuscany, Italy, to sit down with Leonardo Bellaccini — oenologist at San Felice for over four decades, and one of the quiet architects of modern Italian wine. Some winemakers chase trends. Bellaccini has spent his career doing the opposite.
The conversation opens with Vigorello — the first Super Tuscan ever produced in Chianti Classico, a wine that broke the rules before breaking the rules had a name. Then it turns to Pugnitello: a grape so obscure it had nearly vanished from the historical record, now central to San Felice's identity and a testament to what happens when a winery treats its own archive as a vineyard.
Bellaccini also speaks candidly about sustainability — regenerative viticulture, climate adaptation, and a firm refusal to use irrigation regardless of what the seasons bring. And then, somewhere between the terroir and the tannins, the conversation becomes something else: a meditation on why wine matters at all. As Bellaccini puts it — wine makes your soul richer.
Featuring: San Felice, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, Vigorello, Pugnitello, Super Tuscan.